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Thread: Amplifier hook ups!!!! |
    
LIDYO |
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2003 - 08:58 pm: |
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if i hook up my remote wire to my orange (ignition) wire, do i still have to connect the orange wire from my wiring harness to the orange wire at the back of my cd deck? how should i hook it up? anyone pls help thanks |
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Anonymous |
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2003 - 10:45 pm: |
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The orange wire for head units is usually the illumination lead.You should double check it. |
LIDYO |
| Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2003 - 10:29 am: |
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aight the orange wire is for the illumination but what if i hooked up the remote wire to the ignition (not sure what colour), how should i hook it up? split wiring? just hook up the 3 wires together? thanks |
Anonymous |
| Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2003 - 01:36 pm: |
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Unless you dont want your car to run,I suggest hooking up all three.A better option would be to connect it to the acc. lead at the fuse panel.They make special connectors that snap in before the fuse and have a male spade tab sticking out. |
Glenn |
| Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2003 - 05:57 pm: |
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hey i just recently installed my deck, amp, and sub. the protection light of the amp was on and and i reinstalled the turn-on wire (blue wire) and my amp and sub was working, but when i came back to the car the protection light was on again. when i disconnected the ground wire from the cars' chassis the protection light goes off and no power is present on the amp. help anyone thanks... |
motoman22 |
| Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 01:52 pm: |
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Glenn, it's impossible to diagnose from what you have told us.
It's probably either faulty wiring or a faulty device, kinda vague but about as much as I can help here. |
Glenn |
| Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 03:39 pm: |
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so what do u want to know... my wiring looks ok... my ground looks ok coz it worked before.. so im not sure what happened... could be the blue wire (turn on wire) be burned out? |
motoman22 |
| Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 - 11:33 am: |
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You're going to need a multimeter to test this thing.
Make sure that the power wire at the amp has full 12v.
Make sure the ground at the amp tests OK (resistance check to the negative batt terminal.)
Make sure the remote lead gets full 12v when radio is on.
Unhook the speaker leads from the amp and check resistance on each line AT THE AMP on the lines. Resistance should be even and if the speakers are 4-ohm, the line resistance should be 4-ohms each.
Make sure there are no little stray wire strands crossing between terminals anywhere.
If everything above checks out OK but still no workie, amp is probably defective.
Hope that helps |
Glenn |
| Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 - 10:03 pm: |
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hey motoman...
i checked my wiring with a test light..(8-12V) i didn't have any multimeter... anyways, i checked my remote wire on the amp and it was ok... then i checked the red wire that goes to the battery and the light was dimmer.. does it mean it's not giving enough power to the amp? do i need to change it? what should i buy? thanks a lot for your help... |
mkw |
| Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 - 10:49 pm: |
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you could have a partially blown fuse in ur power wire that is letting only part of the juice through.....happened to me a couple of months ago and the protection came on
also, i doubt this is it b/c the source power was dim, but protection will come on if u turn off ur car w/ the head unit turned up |
Anonymous |
| Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 - 11:17 pm: |
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What type of fuse are you using.I have noticed that the glass AGC fuses still let some voltage through even when they are blown. |
Glenn |
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 - 12:27 am: |
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im not sure what type it is.. all i know is that it is 30 amp and its in a black plastic tube container... do u guys think i need to replace it?? how would i know if my fuse had blown??? im talking about the fuse circuit breaker... thanks |
Glenn |
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 - 02:37 pm: |
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hey guys... thanks alot on your help... i finally fixed my system... it was the fuse... one more problem... when im playing music, the sub, makes a sound... it plays by itself.. eventhough i put the volume down, the bass is making this loud sound... how should i fix that?? thanks a lut.... |
gLENN |
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 - 10:33 pm: |
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NEVER MIND MY LAST POST.. I FIXED IT.. ANYWAYS I WANNA THANK U ALL FOR GIVING ME HELPFUL TIPS.. THANKS ONCE AGAIN AND THE BEST TO THE ALL OF U!! |
Anonymous |
| Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 12:50 pm: |
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how do i connect three amps together?What type of amp fuse do i need? and how should i wire it to a dual 4 ohm sub |
Anonymous |
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 09:54 pm: |
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I need help, i'm tryin to hook my amp and subs to my cd deck, can anyone tell me how to get power to my amp? |
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| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 11:10 pm: |
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ground the amplifier first, within 24" of the amp, to a bare metal chassis ground point.
next, run your +12V line from the battery to the amplifier location, placing a fuse holder about 18" from the positive battery terminal. leave the fuse out of the holder till the last step to avoid a short.
now run your signal RCA lines from the source to the amplifier.
connect the remote trigger line from the remote terminal on the amplifier to the remote(rem) or power antenna wire of the head unit so that +12V is supplied whenever the head unit is turned on.
this will tell the amplifier to turn on and off with the stereo.
finally, place a fuse in the fuse holder near the battery terminal, and see how it all sounds.
I do not recommend connecting remote trigger lines to ignition lines since this is a prime way to introduce noise into the system. |
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| Posted on Monday, December 08, 2003 - 02:48 pm: |
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what power amp should i use for my 800w sub |
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| Posted on Monday, December 08, 2003 - 05:01 pm: |
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what is the make and model of the sub?
how many coils? (1 or 2) and how many Ohms per coil?
given that, I could suggest amps.
also do you have a budget in mind?
is that 800 watts an RMS ratingm or max?
I need the RMS power handling rating. max is meaningless. |
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| Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2003 - 01:51 am: |
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Hey I bought an alpine V-power 75x4 amp and i was wondering if i can bypass the turn on signal with anything to run an amp without using an aftermarket deck.
Also i want to test the system before wiring it to my car, any ways i can do so?
I have a car batttery beside me :>> |
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| Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2003 - 06:48 am: |
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when using a factory deck, you can wire the remote trigger for the amplifier to any switched ignition line at the fuse box. It's not ideal, as the line won't be noise filtered, but it should work out fine.
If your factory radio has a power antenna lead, and the antenna stays elevated during radio and CD/tape playback, you can use that feed as well.
you can wire the amplifier to the car battery, if the battery is fully charged, for testing purposes, but keep in mind you don't want to give it any real volume, as the battery isn't a regulated power supply, so as soon as the voltage from the battery begins to drop, the amp is going to clip, and then you'll start to damage the amp and the connected speakers.
I have a pair of 13.8VDC regulated power supplies on my own workbench, along with a deepcycle battery on a charger for doing 12V work. It's not a cheap solution, but it's needed if you do much bench work on car audio. |
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| Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2003 - 09:20 pm: |
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kk if i wire it to the battery on my bench, whre do i put the rem line to?
i dont want to wire it to my car.
is the remote line a signal and if so where do i get specs for it?
if it is a specific voltage? what should it be? |
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| Posted on Thursday, December 25, 2003 - 09:30 pm: |
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I have a Power Acoustik 10"sub, FUBR. I would like to get as much out of the sub as possible. My friend suggested a hook up that i was unsure of. On the sub it has dual 2 ohm voice coils. He suggested that i run the positive and negative speaker wires from the amp to one set of the voice coils. But then on the other side, i simply connect a wire from the positive post to the negative post on that same side. (Kinda making a short I guess)
For my amp, when bridged, which I would have to do, the diagram shows the sub being at 4 ohms. Would this set up, (as stated in first paragraph) work with this amp? I'm a little unsure about the whole ohm ratings? The amp is also a Power Acoustic?
Any help would be appreciated. |
New member Username: Glasswolf
Post Number: 335
Registered: 12-2003
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| Posted on Thursday, December 25, 2003 - 10:43 pm: |
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run the remote to the +12 as well. yes remote is a signal line. low current, +12VDC. tells the amp to turn on.
when testing you can just wire it to the positive terminal as well, along with the power line.
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