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Author Thread: New Flaired Ported Box TONS OF PIX
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 654
Registered: May-06
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11am-10pm today... Im getting carpet first thing tomorrow morning, and cutting the circles and posting the back on. I'll post more pix tomorrow. Let me know what you think.
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Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Southeast PA

Post Number: 2697
Registered: Jul-06
Edit Post

Looks good......
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Silver Member
Username: Goodie_goop

Midland, Texas
U.S.

Post Number: 604
Registered: Oct-06
Edit Post

was that ur first attempt at a flared port?
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Gold Member
Username: Jblanford

Post Number: 1145
Registered: Oct-06
Edit Post

specs/tuning ? whats it for ?
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Gold Member
Username: The_image_dynamic

San Diego

Post Number: 1523
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

Looks like a HT box. For only his fourth box if I remember right, this kid got some skillz. Nice job.
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6819
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Good job dude.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 656
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"was that ur first attempt at a flared port?"
Yes it was, When attempting to do the curve first time around, the board broke in half. Second time, I recut the board the same as before, but pre-bent each slot so it flexed better, then soaked in my pool for 10 minutes slot side down, and it worked perfectly!

"specs/tuning ? whats it for ?"
3.5 cubic feet tuned to 35HZ based on a squared off port, so its a tad different due to the curves, but around 35Hz.

"Looks like a HT box. For only his fourth box if I remember right, this kid got some skillz. Nice job."
HT box? Thanks man, I appreciate the comments.
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Gold Member
Username: Logan__tille

Team Revolution

Post Number: 7586
Registered: Feb-06
Edit Post

You better resin those bends or do something.
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Gold Member
Username: The_image_dynamic

San Diego

Post Number: 1527
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

HT = Home Theater. What Logan is saying is that it looks like you cut pretty deep on those bends so you need to reinforce it with some resin so they don't pop under stress. It looks like he put something on one of the bends in pic #4.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 657
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

oh lol no pic 4 is the water from my pool. I globbed on some glue and sealed it up real well. Its not gonna break under stress now, if it was gonna break, Im sure it would have already at least cracked significantly. Thanks tho for suggestions.
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Gold Member
Username: Adddisorder

West palm, Florida

Post Number: 4444
Registered: Jan-06
Edit Post

you put it in the pool!!! yikes, that is going to compromise the strength in the wood.
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 173
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

^^^ I was going to say the same thing?

You soaked the wood in water?
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 658
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Just the slots, it worked wonders, and dried out in ten minutes. The wood was easier to bend and the strength of the wood was not sacrificed. TRUST ME!
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Silver Member
Username: Mesodumm

Tri-City, Az
Usa

Post Number: 101
Registered: Apr-07
Edit Post

Bad new's! Water and MDF do not play well together!!! Time to get a couple gallons of resin and some fiberglass fabric do it inside and out!
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 176
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

John, dispite what you believe. Soaking your MDF in water WILL mess with the strength. It will cause the MDF to swell and will become very soft. You will probably want to rebuild that.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 659
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

But the sound will be significantly different because the MDF was soaked in water for 10 and completely dried in 10 right? NOT!

The MDF cracked because it was soaked in water right? NOT!

Its fine quit hatin.
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Gold Member
Username: Jblanford

Post Number: 1156
Registered: Oct-06
Edit Post

no one is hating...just telling you the facts
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 660
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

it worked for me. The MDF was a tad softer at first, but after 10 minutes I forgot which piece was soaked in the pool. It's like basket weaving.. You gotta soak it before ya bend it. Im sure there are otherways to do it, I just choose water and am 100% satisfied with the results and I bet if anyone felt the wood, they too would be clueless it was soaked in the pool.
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 177
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

John thats fine.You have a hard time taking peoples advice, dont you. There are some very knowledgable people out there. If your not willing to take peoples advice/tips you will have a hard time building correctly. When I was first starting to build, I learned MANY things from people over at CA.com. Things I would have never done/used etc. If your willing to learn a few things, you will be better off.

And one last time, water is not good with MDF. Trust me
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 661
Registered: May-06
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"John thats fine.You have a hard time taking peoples advice, dont you.
There are some very knowledgable people out there. If your not willing
to take peoples advice/tips you will have a hard time building
correctly. When I was first starting to build, I learned MANY things
from people over at CA.com. Things I would have never done/used etc.
If your willing to learn a few things, you will be better off.

And one last time, water is not good with MDF. Trust me"

Who says the FisherCustoms way is the only way? Not me. I dont have a hard time taking people's advice, thats why I came here. Water worked for me, and once again there is no difference b/t the water piece and the other pieces. Apparently you havent experimented with this, So im pretty sure you can't vouch for it. I have read many things about box building and have never once read that water + mdf = disaster. I didnt dunk the entire sheet, I only layed it face down on the slots side and didnt leave it in there too long. I didn't leave it in long, prolly not even for ten minutes, but enough for it to work for me.

Fisher, the only reason you are coming at me is because you see that I am a new and upcoming box builder and have unbeatable prices, and this gets at you, so you try to destroy me so people will avoid me and go to you, which is just low and I have no respect for people like this. Don't try to jeopardize my freedom of enterprise.
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Bronze Member
Username: Surferdude9371

Maitland, Florida

Post Number: 100
Registered: Mar-07
Edit Post

im not a box builder and id have to agree with fisher water+mdf=badnews from personal exp but hey if it works out for you bud thats awsome box looks great btw.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 663
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

personal experience? Explain? Because I have no water dammage on the wood nor stains or anything.
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 178
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

Who says the FisherCustoms way is the only way?
I didnt either. This isnt a question of technique. There are MANY different techniques on box building. This is simply a question of structrual integrity.

I dont have a hard time taking people's advice, thats why I came here. Water worked for me, and once again there is no difference b/t the water piece and the other pieces. Apparently you havent experimented with this, So im pretty sure you can't vouch for it.

Your right, I havent experienced with it. Thats because its common sense. Why do you put shingles on a house? What about siding? Brick? All these materials are on a house to profect the sheeting from moisture. Moisture + any wood = bad. It will rot eventually. Trust me. I work in the housing market.

I have read many things about box building and have never once read that water + mdf = disaster. I didnt dunk the entire sheet, I only layed it face down on the slots side and didnt leave it in there too long. I didn't leave it in long, prolly not even for ten minutes, but enough for it to work for me.

Then you havent read enough.

Fisher, the only reason you are coming at me is because you see that I am a new and upcoming box builder and have unbeatable prices, and this gets at you, so you try to destroy me so people will avoid me and go to you, which is just low and I have no respect for people like this. Don't try to jeopardize my freedom of enterprise.

This is the part that makes me laugh the hardest John. Trying to destroy you? Last time I checked, i wouldnt be giving someone information on how to build a box with a flared port. I was the one that told you the depth of cut, the spacing, and how many cuts to make. Do you happen to remember this? Im here to help out man. Any business I get from here, is just a bonus. Trust me, I stay busy enough the way it is. If you dont want to take my info, fine. But dont say people arent trying to help you out, and make you a better builder.}
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 179
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

Im trying real hard to "jeopardize my freedom of enterprise."

Arent I? LOL

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/357432.html
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Gold Member
Username: Adddisorder

West palm, Florida

Post Number: 4446
Registered: Jan-06
Edit Post

^^^i find it funny as hell you think you can even compete in the box building scene on this forum having only built 4 boxes 1 that wasnt even tuned and 1 that was soaked in water.

water swells MDF and weakends the bonds fact.

and i have done a few flared slot ports and have never had the wood break in half or needed to soak it in water. if you make the cuts right it will bend with gental force.

im not trying to be a d;ck we are trying to give you advice but because you relized your wrong you get all worked up about it. take it like a man and build another one like everyone else.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 664
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Water may swell MDF and weaken the bonds overtime with constant exposure to elements, but i said ten minutes slot side down is how long it was exposed to the water. It will be in a trunk, not a backyard... My MDF didnt swell or like fisher said, turn soft. If it worked fine for me and there is absolutly nothing wrong with it physically, then why make a big deal about it? Your getting worked up, and im not gonna build another box and put this one out to the road, when it is identical to a box not soaked in water. You just dont realize this, and if I could get better details through the internet I would and proove every single one of you wrong.

"^^^i find it funny as hell you think you can even compete in the box building scene on this forum having only built 4 boxes 1 that wasnt even tuned and 1 that was soaked in water. "

You find it funny as hell, and I find it even funnier, i get at least 1 email every 1-2 days asking about my boxes and prices and if I could build them one, im just not one posting threads about every person I talk to.
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 180
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

Whaterver man, your too hard headed. I will not be offering any advice to you anymore, its a waste of breath. Ill be helping out the people that acutally want to learn.

Im not trying to be a d!ck either. Hope no one is taking it like that. ;)
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6834
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Upload
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 665
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Haha, well Fisher.. you are a d!ck.
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5173
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Here you go guys and gals

http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/woodwork/methods_of_bending_wood.htm

Steam Bending Wood

Steam bending wood is probably the most widely used and accepted method of wood bending. It has been used for ages

To construct a steam box you will need.

• A heat source to make to steam
• A container to hold the water to be heated
• A hose to connect the container to the steam box
• A box to hold the wood to be steamed. Can be either a PVC pipe or a wood box.
• Various fittings, clamps, and screws to put the steam box together.

The heat source can be a camp stove, or just a hot plate. Open flames in a wood shop can be dangerous, so I would prefer a hot plate.

The container to hold the water can be anything you want. A tea kettle works well, but some people use NEW and UNUSED metal gas cans, pressure cookers, etc. You have to be able to attach a hose to it somehow, with fittings and such.

The steam box itself can be made from PVC pipe, metal pipe, or a simple wooden box you make from scraps in the shop. It don’t really matter that much. Steam has to be able to escape, or else the pressure will build and cause it to explode. But you want it to hold the steam enough to heat the wood and force water vapors into the wood. Roy Underhill from the Woodwright’s Shop uses a wad of rags to plug the end of the box, and you can see the water dripping out of the end. If you use a PVC end cap, drill a hole or two in the end to allow the steam to release to pressure as it builds.

Now just assemble everything and try it out. Be careful the steam will heat everything up, so use gloves. The general rule of time is about 1 hour for every inch of thickness being steamed. Use this as a starting point, and adjust your time as needed.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 666
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

LOL. Steam = water. That article suggests that steam is an effective method for bending wood. Since steam is a form of water and that method works, I guess you can say this is an article 'halfway' backing my method. Thx Sean.

I better put this so Fisher doesnt come back with a page in a half argument. I know this is not the way I did it, but your argument was that water weakens and softens the wood. If this were the case and water truly doesnt work, I wouldnt have an affective box, or this article wouldn't have been written.
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5174
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Well I did some more reading and others dont recommend using water to bend mdf just plywood but ill say this if you say it works for you and you teted the strength and appearance we can either take your word or try it ourselves
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5175
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

"teted" should read tested
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5176
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=19916

conflicting report

A friend of mine is a cabinet maker, They use steam and the slits you refered to to bend MDF sheets, He made a bar that ran along the back of a room and along two other walls and that had a massive amount of bent sheets, But he was telling me they buy a special sort of MDF thats been designed to bend using steam.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5177
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

anyone finds anything else post please
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Silver Member
Username: Mesodumm

Tri-City, Az
Usa

Post Number: 102
Registered: Apr-07
Edit Post

Hey John, it is a nice looking box! Did you have a computer to figure dimensions and porting? Doing the flared ports it is nice to have software to figure air space and vent. The cu.ft. inside can be - .2 to .05 difference per side depending on the radius compared to 90 angle. The same with the vent you have to caculate to start of flare instead of end of flare. here are a couple things I found for you.
How large a flare is needed?
I have conducted a series of experiments to determine what velocity of air can be passed through flared ports before port noise becomes audible. Fifteen ports in a range of diameters and flare sizes were tested, leading to the following observations:
* Maximum usable velocity varies with flare radius
* There is a limiting velocity for any given diameter port, regardless of flare radius
* Larger diameter ports have a higher usable velocity than smaller ports
* Port performance varies with frequency
The results have been incorporated into the "flare-it" downloadable calculator. It is suitable for designing flares for ports up to 150mm (6 inches) in diameter, and which operate with a velocity peak below about 35hz.

Also did alot of reading about MDF and moisture there is a lot of info about loss of internal bond and exterior thickness increase, and day's to weeks for proper evaporation of moisture,just as why we season firewood it takes time to dry. so if you put any thing on it like paint or sealer, it will not be able to evaporate and dry properly so the internal bond of the mdf will be compromised.. Hope this has helped you. I am not slamming you! it is a good looking box!
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Silver Member
Username: Mesodumm

Tri-City, Az
Usa

Post Number: 103
Registered: Apr-07
Edit Post

Hey Sean good post! lots of info the other MDF has a differant chemical used for bonding the dust, rather than the formaldihyde. and pressure bending is the right way to do it! the steam doesnt absorb like water would, it is more of a heat source. Here is a site about flares http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/port-flares.htm
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5178
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

thanks....so you think the steam would work for regular mdf?
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Silver Member
Username: Mesodumm

Tri-City, Az
Usa

Post Number: 104
Registered: Apr-07
Edit Post

hey does anyone know about the Trupan Light????
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 181
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

MeSoDumm, thats all I use, is Trupan Light.

Steam bending is far different that soaking wood in a pool.
/Thread.

And no, John, Im not a dick.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 669
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"Steam bending is far different that soaking wood in a pool."

Fisher you must not have read my previous post. Here, try again,
"LOL. Steam = water. That article suggests that steam is an effective method for bending wood. Since steam is a form of water and that method works, I guess you can say this is an article 'halfway' backing my method. Thx Sean.

I better put this so Fisher doesnt come back with a page in a half argument. I know this is not the way I did it, but your argument was that water weakens and softens the wood. If this were the case and water truly doesnt work, I wouldnt have an affective box, or this article wouldn't have been written."

Thanks MeSoDumm, that was helpful advice. I didnt use a software to figure it out. I just figured that the port being +/- .2 or whatever wouldn't sacrifice my previous tuning of 35Hz, or at least not noticeable.

So, like sean said MeSo, is steam bending an affective way?

And yes Fisher, for the record, you are a d!ck.
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Gold Member
Username: Jblanford

Post Number: 1162
Registered: Oct-06
Edit Post

wow...you're an idiot

You have built four box's. Why are you even trying to compete with these other box builder's on the forum ?
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6839
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Random giggle pic.


Upload


We need them on threads like these.
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Silver Member
Username: Jkidder

Spring hill, Florida
Usa

Post Number: 697
Registered: Nov-05
Edit Post

well john wheeler, i mine as well get into this thread also! if u have used chemicals such as chlorine or bromine tablets or used "shock' then ur crazy to think that doesnt affect the wood! im not picking sides im just sayin if those have been used and were active in the water then its affecting it, and not in a good way!!
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 670
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"wow...you're an idiot

You have built four box's. Why are you even trying to compete with these other box builder's on the forum ?"

U may think im crazy, but what I find hilarious is I get people coming to daily asking for me to build boxes. My prices are a lot cheaper than fishers and if people continue to come to me, lmfao, then im not gonna just stop cuz some random punk tries to criticise me.
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Gold Member
Username: Jblanford

Post Number: 1163
Registered: Oct-06
Edit Post

price means nothing to me...it's the quality

and who's the random punk ?

hmmmh...you seem to the be the random punk that popped on the forum... built a box for some type arghs and and now you think you're the sh!t
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 182
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

lol
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6841
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

***Sighs*** Nobody takes a hint anymore.



This thread is going nowhere, fast. Fisher is out of the thread and I respect him for that. John, keep building your boxes the way you feel fit and dip them in pudding if you like, the ends justify the means. I'd hate to see your thread (which started out sane) turn into another mess. If you sell your work and get good returns so be it. If what these guys are proposing is true and you don't, so be that. I for one like drama, I call it spice and it keeps me reading. This thread has passed that point and I'm getting that itchy pic finger again. Let's just drop this whole water issue and get back to the threads intent everyone, please?
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 671
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Can do paul. I finished the box tonight, all I got left is cutting the holes, and I ordered some carpet from parts express. As for Joey, I'll save her the humiliation.
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6843
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Try taking pics of the carpet process. Alot of ppl are curious as to how everyone does it. When I carpet mine it always seems like an art form, and I'm no artist lol.
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Silver Member
Username: Jkidder

Spring hill, Florida
Usa

Post Number: 700
Registered: Nov-05
Edit Post

did u have chemicals in ur pool at the time john wheeler?? like i stated above^^^????
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Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 4440
Registered: Feb-06
Edit Post

how much for a dual 12" flaired ported box john? subs up port back, double baffled, with the top being stained birch? black carpet on the rest? about 4cuft. after displacement. dual terminal cups on the rear. dual chambered.
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6850
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Upload
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 672
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

When it comes to carpeting, I watched a tutorial, and my mom had good ideas too when it came to getting perfect folds on the end. Its similar to wrapping a present. My mom wall papers a lot and she said the overlaps and the ends are very similar to that, so between that tutorial and my moms guidance, I get that box wrapped ;).

As for JK's question about the chemicals. There arent too many in there now, we just took the cover off and are waiting for things to clear up and then it will be shocked and chlorine tablets will be put in daily. But not many chemicals were in there when I wetted the wood.

ctmike, why do you want to know that box price? I'm not gonna add it up if your just trying to be a smart@ss and proove some point no one cares about.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 673
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

ah and come to think about carpet pix, i took some last time i carpeted my box.. here ill post some
Upload
Upload
Upload
Well i thought i had more, this doesnt give you the best idea, but ill take more this time around.
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Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 4441
Registered: Feb-06
Edit Post

wow, umm, good way to answer a question.
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Platinum Member
Username: Rovin


2 10 Pioneer...

Post Number: 11582
Registered: Jul-05
Edit Post

how about the idea of using multilpe layers of thinner wood glued\laminated in the shape u want - u form it around a jig & when it dries stays in the same shape

never tried it b4 myself but i seen Norm Abram & other woodworkers on PBS done it a few times ...
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 674
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

That sounds like an idea worth trying Rovin.

uhmm.. since why would you ever request a box from me ctmike. When the past 6 threads you always try to tell me how bad I am at life, just to make yourself feel a little better at night. I thought you got the idea.... Im not gonna waste time on something that you dont give a damn about.
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Gold Member
Username: Nyyfan13

Fi SSD
USA

Post Number: 5178
Registered: Jul-06
Edit Post

lol this thread really took off
john, i mean you no disrespect at all cause i have no idea who you are and for all i know, yuo could be the smartest guy alive but if i had to pick between buying a box from you or fisher even if the price difference was $100, i would have to pick fisher. and again, no disrespect, but i find it hard to believe that you are getting 1-2 emails a day from people asking you to biuld them a box. i could be wrong tho for all i know
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Silver Member
Username: Jkidder

Spring hill, Florida
Usa

Post Number: 704
Registered: Nov-05
Edit Post

6 cubes, sub up port back, flared port (not in water lol), tuned to 46, using trupan light wood, n' carpeted. price please.... oh and double baffled top. thanks
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Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 4442
Registered: Feb-06
Edit Post

well o.k. then. you said you make/sell boxes, can be bought for cheaper than what fisher makes them for (got quote from him, wanting to see what your price would be) and when asked for a price you act stupid about it. guess a sale lost is really nothing to you then huh, cause i need a box for the subs i'm ordering tuesday.
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Gold Member
Username: Nyyfan13

Fi SSD
USA

Post Number: 5179
Registered: Jul-06
Edit Post

ct, what subs did you finally decide on? i rememeber yuo were looking at quite a few possibilities
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Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 4443
Registered: Feb-06
Edit Post

to be honest, still not 100% :-). almost certain i was going with q's but now i can get 2 12" idmaxs shipped for $700 (bnib from id dealer), just saying tuesday cause by then i'm sure i'll have it decided. maybe.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 676
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"well o.k. then. you said you make/sell boxes, can be bought for cheaper than what fisher makes them for (got quote from him, wanting to see what your price would be) and when asked for a price you act stupid about it. guess a sale lost is really nothing to you then huh, cause i need a box for the subs i'm ordering tuesday."

LOL. ctmike you wouldnt consider my box for an instant. A sale lost.. LMFAO! Ctmike have your mom write fisher a check for $500 and you get that box you've had your eye on since you were 12.
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Silver Member
Username: Jkidder

Spring hill, Florida
Usa

Post Number: 706
Registered: Nov-05
Edit Post

wat about mah price dammmmit!
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Gold Member
Username: Jblanford

Post Number: 1169
Registered: Oct-06
Edit Post

wheelers business ethics FTL

prefab box > wheeler box
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6857
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Upload
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 677
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Blanford < The dump I took this morning.
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Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 4445
Registered: Feb-06
Edit Post

wow john, good way to do business. i was serious but since you can't act like an adult and give a quote for a box, i guess not. this how you respond to everyone asking for a price for a box?
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6858
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

If anyone wants to contest this we can go. I'm drunk, and ready.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 678
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

No, just pr!cks like you who dont give 2 $hits about me or my boxes. I have never heard anything from you other than wow your an idiot, your so dumb. Tune it after you build it LOL look at this moron, etc, etc, so why should I give a damn about you or take you seriously. I came on here and tried to learn, but you shoved it in my face and i'll shove it back in yours. Goodnight, bm all you want, ill respond in the morning.
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Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 4447
Registered: Feb-06
Edit Post

shove what back into my face? all i wanted was a quote on a box. even a guesstimate (give or take a few dollars).
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Gold Member
Username: Jblanford

Post Number: 1170
Registered: Oct-06
Edit Post

"I came on here and tried to learn"

bullshit...look at this thread, BJ and others told you it wasn't ok to soak mdf in water (which it's not) you blew them off like you knew what you were doing

asshat
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Silver Member
Username: Jkidder

Spring hill, Florida
Usa

Post Number: 709
Registered: Nov-05
Edit Post

jesus fvuck, wheres mah fvucking quote. FVUCK!!!!!
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New member
Username: Jack_meeoph

Miami, FL
USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-07
Edit Post

Joe said it all!! You do not know how to build a box!!! You argue with everyone!! Who is trying to help you!! There is no way you are getting calls to build boxes!! your carpet seams sucks!! your ports are f**king ugly painting inside won't even cover them up!! A screw 5 to 6 inches and silicone!! What the H*ll are you thinking!!! Go back to CC and learn a little more! Then maybe Go to a real stereo shop and beg for a job!!! I have seen BJ's boxes the are well built, prefab ha ha ha ha! just because he was smart enough to come up with a good idea you are jealous!!! Have an idea take your box jump in the pool with it and see if you can use it for a boat! ah! sh*t it would probably sink! Then we would never get to hear it!! ha ha o'well!!!! You would of not got any of the comments on this thread if you would of listened to people!!! Instead of fighting them!!
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Gold Member
Username: Jblanford

Post Number: 1171
Registered: Oct-06
Edit Post

man...i don't who this jack guy is, but i like em'
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Silver Member
Username: Kaos15th

Post Number: 467
Registered: Mar-05
Edit Post

^^^Why dont you show youre real name too p^ssy? John try craigslist.com I sold a shitload of boxes there this year.
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New member
Username: Jack_meeoph

Miami, FL
USA

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-07
Edit Post

Oky! Hi!! my name is Avalanche18! I hav a new fweend named John! Wee biild boxes too getter at home and sell them to all the poo and unfoortuneete!! Summ day we is going too start a bizoness too getter!!! NOTE:"" you have to say this with the hillbilly slure""
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Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 423
Registered: Feb-07
Edit Post

well orchestrated jack.
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Silver Member
Username: Andrew571

Stillwater/Edmond, Oklahoma
USA

Post Number: 863
Registered: Oct-05
Edit Post

where in OK r u @ Jesse?
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Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Just a matte...
Missouri

Post Number: 2477
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

Jack, whoever you are, just forget you created that account. We don't need people to start suspecting who it might be..
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Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 426
Registered: Feb-07
Edit Post

moore. i found two of you now.. cfree is from okc i do beleive
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6860
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

I can die now.



Upload
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 679
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Lmfao, you're all a buncha fu*kin idiots.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 682
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Lmfao, you're all a buncha fu*kin idiots. Its funny how you pu$sy's bring in smurf names to avoid your real name. Haha!

Oh ctmike and JK. Box prices: $500 each.
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Bronze Member
Username: Visitor01

Post Number: 77
Registered: Jan-07
Edit Post

Nice- water+mdf... here is an idea- take some mdf- throw it in the pool, let it dry... then break it (trust me- it wont be hard) and inspect the inside of the wood.... GUARUNTEED its soggy and sh.itty.. whatever floats your boat, though
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 184
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

Not to stir this thread up again...but.....


Ok, so I did some testing today... was very curious about this topic. What I did was grab a scrap piece laying around. It was approx. 5" wide x 18" long. I tried breaking it over an end of a table by putting pressure on both ends with the middle of the wood resting on the edge of the table. I gave it 5 good trys but I couldnt break it. Soaked it in a bucket of water for 10 mins. (The whole thing wouldnt go in the bucket, about the first 12" did.) I let it dry for 10 mins (Like the other guy did). It was still soaking. Checked the thickness, and it was thicker, by a hair. Im guessing around 1/32", but was clearly swollen. I waited another hour and a half, until it was completely dry. Checked the thickness again, hadnt changed, was still about 1/32" thicker. Put it back on the table the same way to test the strength, and it snapped on the second try.

I checked the inside of the broken pieces and they felt soft, and tore out very easily.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 684
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Ok first of all, I didnt soak mine in the pool. I laid it very carefully slit side down in the pool, and only about 1/3 of the wood was submerged from the bottom. 10 minutes later, I picked it up careful not to dunk anymore of it in the water. Let it drip off and i leaned it against the table outside for 10 minutes, by that time it was completely dry when i matched it up with the other MDF i had inside, it was identical. I believe since i didnt drench the entire piece of wood in the pool, thats what helped it to dry quicker and not affect it as much as if i held it under water. When I bent this after about a total of 15 minutes since it had been removed from the water, the wood bent much easier, but not too easy, and the wood did not feel soft at all nor did it crack at all.

All im saying is it worked well for me with no signs of water damage.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 685
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"Nice- water+mdf... here is an idea- take some mdf- throw it in the pool, let it dry... then break it (trust me- it wont be hard) and inspect the inside of the wood.... GUARUNTEED its soggy and sh.itty.. whatever floats your boat, though"

Never got an email on this comment, but I will try this to try to see where you guys were coming from. I wouldn't say it worked fine if the damn thing fell apart. All i stated above was what I observed. Like any experiment or test, I'm not gonna put what was expected in my conclusion if the complete opposite happened in my case. I'm going to put what I observed. And if i didn't observe everything you guys said happened, im not gonna be like ok, your right, when in reality, this may be the case for some, but for some reason the way i did this it worked differently and better for me.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 686
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

I am doing this experiment again, and am taking pictures, I will most certainly post the results.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 688
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Correction on time: Once having done this experiment again, using a clock at 10 minutes, I realize that there was no way I let that wood stay in there for ten minutes, it was only a brief amount of time, and I believe five minutes is more accurate. Nevertheless, I will post the results on ten minutes, and possibly do another experiment with only letting it soak for 5 minutes.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 689
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

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DRY MDF = 0.759"
WET MDF AFTER 10 MINUTES = 0.791"

Fisher, you were right. This wood did swell and it had a softer texture than the dry MDF. You were also right when you said it didnt dry in ten minutes. I realize when I first explained my process of how I bent the wood, I carelessly threw out a time of ten minutes, after doing this experiment I realize that it wasnt nearly that long, and saying it was 5 minutes, would be a stretch. I wet it enough so that the wood didnt act as as sponge as this piece of wood did.

All I know is that I messed up by saying I soaked it for ten minutes, and by those standards, I would have to agree with you by saying that I was wrong and you were right, the wood swelled, wasnt dry, etc, etc. I also know that when I did this with the actual piece of wood, it didnt swell up or suck in water like a sponge. It was dry after ten minutes, and everything I stood by above.

I apologize for the miscommunication and this once decent thread turned into.. how Paul put it, trainwreck.
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5183
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Thanks John very professional
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 185
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

Am i still a d!ck?
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Silver Member
Username: Mesodumm

Tri-City, Az
Usa

Post Number: 111
Registered: Apr-07
Edit Post

Anyway it goes Water damages the integrity of the board unless it is the special kind of MDF. I read 7 or 8 differant websites that all stated that the internal bond strength was altered. Time is not the real issue absorbtion of any moisture is, and the dry time days to weeks not minutes and hours. It will still look good. But I would not want to put a couple of 12" or bigger in it with over 800 watts.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 690
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"Am i still a d!ck?"
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Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 6239
Registered: Nov-04
Edit Post

Why do you even have to ask that? If you're not a d!ck, then you're a ....
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 691
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

then your a ....... ? Come on Isaac, I dont like cliffhangers.....
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 692
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

...Ok I Finished up the box, sealed up the inside, cut the holes. Now waiting on my order from parts express for my carpet. Im debating on installing terminal cups on this project or not. I have heard mixed reviews of them... Some say they are a possibility for leaking air, others say if you dont, you will leak air.. Hmm...

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Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 6240
Registered: Nov-04
Edit Post

I was just saying that sometimes it's better to be a d!ck than a .....
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6868
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Those who say terminal cups leak air are the ones who can't cut a hole right. Personally I like terminals. Some say to run the wire right out the box and silicon it tight. Some use bolts. Toss up.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 695
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Hmm.. I cut the holes, carpet the entire box, cut around the terminal cutouts, but what do i use to seal them up? So i silicon all around the edges and then screw them in tight, or what?
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6872
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Do the cups have screw holes or are they just pressure fit? Usually the carpet acts as a gasket between the terminal and the box and that's generally all you should need. If this was a sealed box I would worry more but as long as you can't see inside the box around the terminal any air loss would be minimal and insignificant.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 696
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

they have screw holes.
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Gold Member
Username: Adddisorder

West palm, Florida

Post Number: 4460
Registered: Jan-06
Edit Post

i would seal up the terminal cup with caulking, well actually i wouldnt use one in the first place.
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6874
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

You should be fine.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 697
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

DSC_0628.JPG
DSC_0629.JPG
DSC_0630.JPG
I cut the holes for the terminal cups with the circular hole cutting thing with a 2" diameter that you put on the end of an electric drill. It worked wonders and I had perfectly smooth and round holes, no problem, except.... After about 30 seconds of constant drilling, the sawdust would turn from light tan, the color of the MDF wood to dark dark brown, and smoke would arise and to say the least, it smelled like sheit! It was the most disgusting smell I can honestly say I have ever smelled. I wanted to puke my guts out! Those circular cutters are about 20 years old, so I may try to get a newer one next time and see if that helps the smell, but I lost my appetite for dinner because of that smell... Any idea what that smell could be or be from?
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 186
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

Its just the MDF burning. I remember that smell... its terrible. What you need to do, is drill for a little bit, pull the bit completely out, and clean out the teeth, This will help prevent the burning smell.

What I did, was instead of getting the circle cut out ones... get the square cut out ones and just cut your hole with a jig saw.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 698
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

Hmm.. Well the reason I did this was cuz it didnt take as long as with the jigsaw and it's more accurate. Do you just use a jigsaw when cutting out your circles for the speakers on your boxes?
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6883
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

Good sharp tools are key. 20 year old anything is probably dull. I have many forstner bit sets that go up tp 3 1/4" wide that work well under low speed. Even decent hole cutting saws work well. Burning is due to over speed and/or dull bits/blades.
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6884
Registered: Jun-06
Edit Post

When done right a jigsaw works as well as any for your sub hole. Some like routers with the circle jig. Up to you. It doesn't need to be within a tolerance of 1/64th of an inch. It's a box for a speaker, not a NASA project.
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 188
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

As Paul pointed out, new good tools wouldnt definitely help. I just never had much luck with the hole saws. I cut out my sub holes with a router.
I agree, the circle holes look cleaner, but it was such a PITA to me, I chose the square ones instead. Its just a personal preference.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 700
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"As Paul pointed out, new good tools wouldnt definitely help. I just never had much luck with the hole saws. I cut out my sub holes with a router.
I agree, the circle holes look cleaner, but it was such a PITA to me, I chose the square ones instead. Its just a personal preference."

New good tools wouldnt help? How come? Typo?
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 702
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"As Paul pointed out, new good tools wouldnt definitely help. I just never had much luck with the hole saws. I cut out my sub holes with a router.
I agree, the circle holes look cleaner, but it was such a PITA to me, I chose the square ones instead. Its just a personal preference."

New good tools wouldnt help? How come? Typo?
The circle was much easier for me than the jigsaw, other than that unbearable odor.
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 706
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

10 round terminal cups for $15.50 FTW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26item%3D290119987248
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Silver Member
Username: Bjfish11

Garden Plain, KS
USA

Post Number: 191
Registered: Dec-06
Edit Post

yea typo.... meant to say they would probably help.
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Gold Member
Username: Johnfiac

A-ToWn, Kingkong ain...
I got Chuck ...

Post Number: 3045
Registered: Mar-06
Edit Post

Wow,i didnt notice this thread yet..... but since it has already been said.. i wont take long..

I tryed building a box outside... it started drizzling... my board had water specles all over it from tiny rain drops and each spot the rain dripped on, bubbles out about 1\16 of a inch and was easy to push down a bit or leave a mark in from applying pressure as opposed to a spot on the board that wasnt wet, so yes it does make it weaker and expand. But like you said if it works it works, but i would brace it and coat it with epoxy or somthing just for the added strength for that reason.
Still Nice job....im still debating on even trying another flared slot port... everyboard i tried last time... ::SNAP:: but then again nobody wanted to give me cut depths and space between them, i wasnt about to cut 20 pieces of wood to figure it out...
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5185
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

someone should do a test on losses using terminal cups, bolts, and straight wire....that would be intresting to see comparisons
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5186
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

a tip ill throw our for subwoofer hole cutouts would be our trick....take a scrap piece of mdf and after measuring to find the center point where you want your subwoofer drill a small hole and place a screw in it then drill a small hole at the point of the outside diameter of the sub hole and use a writing instrument and simply rotate....a perfect circle is the result ....then use your jigsaw to cut it out
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5187
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

"our" should read out
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 707
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"a tip ill throw our for subwoofer hole cutouts would be our trick....take a scrap piece of mdf and after measuring to find the center point where you want your subwoofer drill a small hole and place a screw in it then drill a small hole at the point of the outside diameter of the sub hole and use a writing instrument and simply rotate....a perfect circle is the result ....then use your jigsaw to cut it out"

Yea, this is what I do..
I measured a piece of hemp exactly the diameter of the cutout, and drill a small hole, put the hemp at the bottom of the drillbit and trace around in a circle (with loops at the end of each end)
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Bronze Member
Username: Jayzbent

IL.
USA

Post Number: 25
Registered: May-07
Edit Post

I use cardboard in the same manner for circles. Whatever gets the job done
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5189
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

th wood from the mdf works because it doesnt flex or move....not sure what hemp is but im imagining a string type thing an that has a pontential to move on ya
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Silver Member
Username: J_c_wheeler8

Columbus, IN
United States

Post Number: 708
Registered: May-06
Edit Post

"th wood from the mdf works because it doesnt flex or move....not sure what hemp is but im imagining a string type thing an that has a pontential to move on ya"

The hemp is a type of string, and it worked great for me and made perfect circles. The loops are tied extremely tight and wont go anywhere, the most they may stretch is like maybe 1/64th of an inch, which is completely unnoticable. Like Paul said, this isnt NASA.
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Gold Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 5191
Registered: Jun-04
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to each his own
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Gold Member
Username: Wingmanalive

A pic is worth
1000 posts!!

Post Number: 6891
Registered: Jun-06
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This is what I use for large circles. I can get up to a 26" diameter circle. Larger if I just swap out the rod. Push the center pin into the wood and draw. Quite simple, quite cheap. Less than $10.




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