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Author Thread: Mag ma-32ef1ac gets no picture
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Stephen Sessions
New member
Username: Dicepackage

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-09
Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 10:36 pm:    Edit Post
32 Inch LCD
Model:Mag 3200 more specifically ma-32ef1ac
Condition: Backlight works but no picture/audio and non-responsive

I recently acquired a Mag 3200 model ma-32ef1ac that is not functioning. I received this broken and I don't know the history behind it. When I plug in the tv I get the normal red light and the backlight flickers. When I go to power on the tv by remote the backlight comes on and the power button becomes blue. Normally when the tv is turned on it flashes the Mag logo but it does not do this. The tv is then unresponsive and can't be shut down. There is no picture and no audio just the backlight.

I uploaded a picture of the back panel removed here:
http://i31.tinypic.com/2ii8nxu.jpg

I tested out the voltages on the left with a multimeter and the voltages all registered correctly. The 24V flashed about 20ish volts and then went to zero. The black thing (capacitor?) is making a slight hum or at least I think that is what is making the noise. I have never repaired tvs before so any help is greatly appreciated.
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Stephen Sessions
New member
Username: Dicepackage

Post Number: 2
Registered: Sep-09
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 04:22 pm:    Edit Post
After further testing the 24V connection is working fine, I had the multimeter set wrong. Does that mean the power supply is fully functional if all the DC output voltages are correct?
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Stephen Sessions
New member
Username: Dicepackage

Post Number: 3
Registered: Sep-09
Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 12:50 am:    Edit Post
Here is what I did to fix the problem in case this helps anyone else:

Before I removed the old JL321XA main board I took a picture of everything connected to refer to in case I had any problems reconnecting anything. I ordered the GT321XA-BH Polaroid board from shopjimmy.com. When I installed it I made sure to reconnect everything the way it was before. I also made sure that the jumper was in the up position to make sure it was getting the correct voltage. The jumper was in the exact same place but had a sticker over it so I didn't see it at first. I reconnected everything and at first nothing happened. I realized I didn't push the board in far enough and the parallel port looking connection on the back wasn't fully connected. I screwed the back panel in a bit to get some of the parts to stay in place and it worked when I powered it on. I also had to use a rotary cutter (dremel) to make room for the HDMI ports. It looks kind of ugly but it works. The only difference is it now thinks it is running a Polaroid board. Picture in picture no longer works with this board but on the plus side there is a second HDMI port. It also thinks I have a card reader and USB in the source options even though they aren't there.
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