| Author |
Thread: Archive through March 14, 2006 |
    
JTS in Chi Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 10:46 am: |
|
I have a 5067 and a Samsung HTWP38 surround sound system. Does anyone have any ideas how to get the surround sound in sync with the TV. I'd say it's about 2 frames out of sync... with the TV sound and the surround system both on, the tv sound (which is in sync) seems to be slightly ahead. The home theater can be set to delay the sound, but that's not my problem. |
|
Relevant Product Info
|
|
Silver Member Username: Fyi
Dallas,
Texas
Post Number: 602
Registered: May-05
|
| Posted on Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 11:29 am: |
|
Use the internal mute on the set. There is no reason to use the tv speakers with a surround sound system. If you don't own a center channel you can set up a virtual center channel in any ss receiver. |
JTS in Chi Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 02:45 pm: |
|
FYI...
Thanks for the advice. However, what I was saying was that the way I could CONFIRM that it was out of sync was by using the tv sound and the surround sound at the same time. I do in fact use the internal mute and the surround... my problem is that the surround is a few frames out of sync with the picture. Perhaps not enough to bother some people, but I'm a TV producer, and it drives me crazy. Any further thoughts? |
Silver Member Username: Helpful_smurf
Post Number: 175
Registered: Jun-05
|
| Posted on Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 04:26 pm: |
|
Easy, run your video and audio through a better reciever that should synch it all back up again. A Yamaha 5990 should do, it will run you about a thousand bucks but that should be chickenscratch to a TV producer right? ;) |
Barrie D Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 10:11 am: |
|
Why should someone have to pay a thousand dollars to correct a problem that was non Existence with a previous cheaper set, |
Silver Member Username: Fyi
Dallas,
Texas
Post Number: 605
Registered: May-05
|
| Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 11:33 am: |
|
JTS in Chi said, "The home theater can be set to delay the sound, but that's not my problem."
So, this whole thing is a bit confusing.
He wanted to sync up the tv speakers with the ss receiver. That's not going to happen. The only reason would be to compensate for no center channel. However, then he says, "my problem is that the surround is a few frames out of sync". If the ss receiver doesn't have enough delay there are other alternatives. My experience is that only certain programs on certain channels present significant delay and they're few and far between to matter to me.
Here is a link with some explaination.
http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/specsformats/AV_lip_sync_delay.html
Apart from a better receiver, here is another alternative.
http://www.felston.com/dd540/ |
JTS in Chi Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 12:17 pm: |
|
FYI--
The only reason I was trying to sync-up the home theater and the sound from the TV was because the TV speakers were the ones that were in-sync. I was just using the tv speaker as a guide for myself to get the home theater in-sync as well-- not to actually use the tv speakers.
My impression was that the home theater was a few frames BEHIND where it should be... so delaying them won't help. What I need to do is to get the home theater sound AHEAD a couple of frames. I will double check my system at home tonight, but I do believe that the home theater sound is actually behind, not ahead, of the picture.
I hope that is clearer. Any suggestions? |
New member Username: Cyjelly
Post Number: 3
Registered: Dec-05
|
| Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 12:17 pm: |
|
Has anybody else experienced really green faces in dark sceens on their Samsung DLP (specifically the HLP 5085 Pedastel model)? It looks as if there is a green shadow on the faces and other objects.
This may be a little silly, but a great example is when the characters in LOST are down in the computer room in the hatch.
I have changed cables and recalibrated colour with no success.
Also, I can't seem to get anywhere with Samsung Service (surprise, surprise).
PLEASE HELP!!! |
Silver Member Username: Fyi
Dallas,
Texas
Post Number: 609
Registered: May-05
|
| Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 02:00 pm: |
|
Cory,
What do you mean by, "I can't seem to get anywhere with Samsung Service."?
1-800- SAMSUNG prompts 2,1,3,1
JTS,
I've never heard of the sound trailing the video. The situation with everyone has always been a video processing delay causing the sound to be ahead by various milliseconds. I've discovered that much of it is content or source related. If it was truly a video processing issue it would be constant. It's never constant! |
|
|
Mr. Gary Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 07:39 pm: |
|
FYI - I have 1.25 years on my Samsung HL-P5063W with no problems and an SUPERB picture - second to none in my opinion. To play it safe, I just ordered a back up lamp from Samsung. Shocked to find that they just upped the price from $199 to $229. Other vendor sites sell these light assemblies for significantly more. So you may want to order a back up as I suspect the price will go even higher...... I have 1300 hours on my original lamp. |
Silver Member Username: Fyi
Dallas,
Texas
Post Number: 610
Registered: May-05
|
| Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 09:36 pm: |
|
Mr. Gary,
Thanks for the post. I really did like my P63. It had a better screen than the R67 I have now.
The lamp costs were supposed to drop. I guess that's not happening. You can get your lamp much cheaper on ebay. I've seen yours go for around $100 new in the box quite regularly. I've got two extra 01073As, but mine were $159 each. It's the square vented type instead of the round enclosed that you have. You can pick up some 0224A or C lamps cheaper and swap the glass lamp into your housing too. It's pretty easy.
http://search.ebay.com/samsung-lamp_W0QQcatrefZC3QQfromZR2 |
JTS in Chi Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 09:51 am: |
|
FYI...
We'll, you can't say you've never heard of sound trailing video anymore, because that's what I've got with my HTWP38. And you say it's "never constant". How do you know that? I've got the same delay on every channel. |
Silver Member Username: Fyi
Dallas,
Texas
Post Number: 612
Registered: May-05
|
| Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 10:46 am: |
|
I speak from the longevity of consistent reviews of posts on two forums. Yours is the first case I've ever encountered of an HL-R5067W with a steady audio trailing the video condition using a surround sound receiver. The set has only been alleged to have an intermittent video processing delay, which appears to exaggerate infrequent content lip/sync issues. I'm guessing the receiver has the problem. I suggest you try a different receiver to isolate the condition. |
Mr. Gary Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 04:00 pm: |
|
FYI - thanks for your post regarding using E-Bay to look for new lamp assy. Wish I had thought of that before I bought lamp from Samsung!!! May try to send it back and get a refund if I can get one much cheaper.
Anyway - your input is useful for others. Most of your inputs are very usful. Thanks. |
Maul rat Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 04:41 pm: |
|
FYI, I have a HLR6167w... Could elobarate more on the lamp purchasing advice, i.e., I can just by the lamp without the housing? If so do you have a model number for just the lamp(-the housing)so that I can do a search? My lamp is still working good- just want to safe. |
Silver Member Username: Fyi
Dallas,
Texas
Post Number: 614
Registered: May-05
|
| Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 06:11 pm: |
|
Maul rat,
You have a 67 like me. Most likely yours is an 01073A like mine. There's a sticker on the left side with your lamp part number. I haven't found any of the square vented glass lamps yet. I'm looking, though. There's a guy on ebay that can get whole units for $159.
There are lots of the round enclosed 120W glass lamps for sale, but that doesn't do us any good. A Phillips screwdriver is all it takes to swap one out if you can get the glass lamp.
Mr. Gary,
Thanks for the kind words!
Best regards! |
New member Username: Maulrat
Phoenix
Post Number: 10
Registered: Jul-05
|
| Posted on Monday, February 13, 2006 - 11:36 am: |
|
FYI, thanks for the info. I checked my tv and it actually looks like this is the one I have- http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail.asp?catalog%5Fname=Parts+and+Accessories &product%5Fid=BP96%2D00826A - The 00826a-. Does this make it easier to find the lamp by itself minus the housing? More specifically what keywords would you put in for a search for just the lamp?
Also I noticed a few post up that the lamp had jumped up to $229. As of this post it looks both lamps-1073 and 0826 are back down to $199 |
Silver Member Username: Fyi
Dallas,
Texas
Post Number: 617
Registered: May-05
|
| Posted on Monday, February 13, 2006 - 01:00 pm: |
|
Did you check the sticker on the left side of your tv or did you check the samaungparts.com website? You need to trust the sticker or actually inspect your lamp.
$199 Yea...I saw that too!
Just enter "samsung lamp" in the ebay search and a dozen or so will come up.
If yours is the round enclosed 120W type you're a lucky dog! It's my understandidng that any 826A, 608A, 224A-C, will swap into the 826A housing. Some guy is selling loose ones as well, but I don't think they are Phillips. I wouldn't buy anything other than Phillips. |
Bronze Member Username: Maulrat
Phoenix
Post Number: 11
Registered: Jul-05
|
| Posted on Monday, February 13, 2006 - 01:46 pm: |
|
Yes, I check the side of the tv. I'll do the search and see what I come up with. Thanks for your help. |
AJ in IN Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 01:02 am: |
|
I have had the same problem as JTS in Chi, but slightly different. The sound trails the picture, but only on occasions. It only happens when I watch a DVD, and only on some DVD's. Even when it happens on a DVD, there are times when the DVD will synch back up a few chapters later, or get worse a few chapters later, or sometimes just stay at the same amount of lag behind the picture. Whatever the case with the individual DVD, though, it remains constant for that specific DVD no matter when it is viewed. It seems to be a very bizarre problem, however I thought I'd weigh in to let you know that JTS isn't crazy - it has happened to me, too.
(Although, I am not able to empirically rule out the insanity of the both of us . . . !) |
Alexiboy Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 04:29 pm: |
|
-----------------Hi Guys,
I have a hln467w. It is about 1.5 years old. We had a power surge so I had to replace the line filter and power board. Now the picture seems to go on a cycle of changing the contrast from dark to light in a very quick cycle and it doesnt stop. Do you all have any idea what is wrong with it? and also can you tell me how I can check how many hours the lamp has been used? |
JTS in Chi Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 06:18 pm: |
|
AJ...
Thank you for the sanity check!
I haven't had a lot of time to watch DVD's since I got the 5067 and the surround sound in early January. I will check and see if I have the same problem with the DVD. Do you have the Samsung HTWP38 "wireless" home theater system as well? |
|
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 01:14 pm: |
|
No one ever answered Cory about the green shadows in low light on screen conditions. I have noticed this on my HLR5668 also. I do not have HD service yet and was hoping when I got it the problem would go away. Anyone comment>>>>>>> |
auburndarin Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 06:10 pm: |
|
First of all, thanks to all who have posted issues with their DLP's out here. This forum is a much better help than any Samsung manual will ever be... which by the way is a complete joke. Here is the issue I have just ran into on my HLN4365.... its the old solarization or topographical map thing I see in a few of the forums. Here is the best definition for what I am seeing:
False Contouring: Also known as solarization or posterization. False contouring occurs when color shows as distinct contours or edges where there shouldn't be any. This occurs when colors that should flow naturally between shades or brightnesses do so discretely in clearly defined bands. The visual effect is the look of a topographical map instead of a video image. I've had the television since 10/16/2004. No problems at all until a few weeks ago. This problem began to surface and has gotten worse. I have a technician coming out next week, but would be curious to hear ideas from any of you. I don't believe it is a bulb issue, since there doesn't appear to be any more "diming" to the pciture. The colors look odd. I have attempted calibration of those without any improved success. Reds are really pink. Faces are sunburned and pixeled. Standard Definition is MUCH worse than HD, although the problem is apparent on HD channels as well as DVDs. I have tried multiple inputs, including DVI and S-video to compare what the picture looks like. Results are similar. My next hunch that there is an issue with the color wheel. I'd love to hear if any of you have ran into this issue. Again, I've had the set for 18 months, and it hasn't always looked like this.
Thanks very much. |
|
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 07:51 pm: |
|
Hello,
I have an HLP4663W that I bought about 16 months ago and that generally has worked great. Recently the screen went black with all three lights blinking and I changed out the lamp with no problem. However, now the set will turn on with the usual ascending tones, but the screen stays black. The set intermittently makes a soft clicking sound that sounds like its attempting to start again, but the screen stays black. I spoke to the authorized service center and the guy said the main circuit board is probably blown and costs $1600 to replace. Can anyone think of any other maneuvers to try while I wait the two weeks for the service center to work through their backlog? I tried unplugging and plugging the set and reseating the lamp. The changeout of the lamp was easy and uneventful. Thanks.
Joe |
New member Username: Dlpfreak
Paradise,
CA
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 07:52 pm: |
|
Lamps - I see lamps up to $300? Bought mine from Samsungparts.com $199 Don't know why everyone else wants more? I see some for bid, but I would probably end up with a used one, so I bite the bullet and go to Samsung. I had to order a new color wheel because of the noise and they are STILL selling the one that squeals after all these years (NO air bearing). Very poor business practice, guess they have us by the short hairs. It may be worth $5,000 for the new system with NO color wheel and NO lamp?
I have never experienced a better picture and GLARE proof. I always hated my ugly mug staring back at me in all those other TV's. Had a very small group of what I thought were dead pixels and after contacting a tech., He asked me to tune to cable and they disappeared! It was the Satellite signal. Changed HD box and have never encountered that problem again. I hope the above helps others. NO other TV for me, I love my Sammy 43" 1080i. Love this site and will keep reading it! |
New member Username: Dlpfreak
Paradise,
CA
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 08:04 pm: |
|
Upon waiting for the replacement color wheel I saw that the 2 fans were covered with dust so I cleaned them as well as the inside of the cabinet.
I then taped 2 layers of cheese cloth over the intake vent in the rear which should stop 99% of the dust, it will NOT hinder the airflow. I have used this method on many components and it does work! CHEAP insurance, but do change the cloth every 3 or 4 months. I do have a question - there is a small door in the read midway up the cabinet, that when you remove it one can see a projection lens and it also looked a little dusty. Amy suggestions as to cleaning it? or even if I should try? |
Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 02:35 am: |
|
I have a SAMSUNG HLN507WX and it started making a high pitched whining noise. I suspect it is the color wheel or maybe a fan. I have seen discussion aluded to in this thread about color wheel problems, but not enough information to tell me if that is the problem. How can I tell for sure and is it something I could replace or should I rely on tech support? |
Diane S Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 08:43 am: |
|
I also have SAMSUNG HLN507WX and have the same high pitched noise as well. So loud that you have to have the TV voulume turned up high in order not to hear it. We think it may be a transformer.The picture is great. Any info on this would be great. |
New member Username: Mikeschu
PA
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 08:57 am: |
|
I have a Samsung HLN617WX that I think has the color wheel problem. It makes a varied pitch whine that is at times very loud. The whine stops within a few seconds of shut off. Where can I get a new color wheel that is the latest technology at a good price? Is there a way to verify that the color wheel is my problem? Should I replace the bulb at the same time and f so, where is the best place to get it? The picture quality is still excellent.
Thanks,
Mike |
New member Username: Mikeschu
PA
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 09:16 am: |
|
Another question. I checked out the Samsung parts weebsite for the lamp for my HLN617WX nd it looks like there are two listed---BP96-00224B and BP96-00224J. Is the J model the most current? Is there a difference? |
New member Username: Dlpfreak
Paradise,
CA
USA
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 12:14 pm: |
|
Michael & Dave
The J model is supposed to be the latest. Any difference? The Tech at Samsung didn't know either. As far as parts, I have 3 emails into them with questions and in a week they have never replied to one. Some parts supplier. I'm no expert, but I believe you will find that it is the Color Wheel squealing? or maybe a mouse living inside! Samsung placed that color wheel right in front of a HOT projection lamp so I expect it can't take the heat or the heat dissapates all the lubricant in time. Do pay the $22 for the SERVICE manual for your model, it will pay for itsself. I sure don't want to pat 2/3 hundred dollars for a parts replacer and that is all the Tech's do anymore. I'm suprised Tom Bong hasn't comented, must be on vacation. OR, someone taped his mouth and hands and took his computer away!!!! |
New member Username: Dlpfreak
Paradise,
CA
USA
Post Number: 4
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 12:27 pm: |
|
Michael & Dave
The J model is supposed to be the latest. Any difference? The Tech at Samsung didn't know either. As far as parts, I have 3 emails into them with questions and in a week they have never replied to one. Some parts supplier. I'm no expert, but I believe you will find that it is the Color Wheel squealing? or maybe a mouse living inside! Samsung placed that color wheel right in front of a HOT projection lamp so I expect it can't take the heat or the heat dissapates all the lubricant in time. Do pay the $22 for the SERVICE manual for your model, it will pay for itsself. I sure don't want to pat 2/3 hundred dollars for a parts replacer and that is all the Tech's do anymore. I'm suprised Tom Bong hasn't comented, must be on vacation. OR, someone taped his mouth and hands and took his computer away!!!! |
New member Username: Dlpfreak
Paradise,
CA
USA
Post Number: 5
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 12:41 pm: |
|
I don't see any reply to Diane's post? I have never heard a transformer squeal, but, I haven't heard everything. Call any repair Tech and ask them if transformers do squeal? I was told that when you turn off the set and the squeal persists for seconds that it is the cooling fan. If it goes away almost immediately, its the color wheel? Sometimes I can barely hear mine and other times it is unbareable. My color wheel is supposed to be here Monday and I will post the results by Tuesday. That's if the plane is not hijacked. |
Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 02:00 pm: |
|
Hey guys, this forum seems like the best place for me to get answers right now, so here's my question. I just bought an HL-R6768W, received it last Tuesday, and loved it, until yesterday. Yesterday, I turned it on to play a game, and after 25 secs, the screen went black. then about 20 secs. later it went back on. It did this three times before it finally went back into standby/off. I tried using the remote, and all it does is make the timer light flash, it doesn't do anything. Also, the buttons on the side of the TV aren't working either. Needless to say, I'm irritated. But the thing is, I got it from butterflyphoto.com, and they don't do the exchanges. Instead I have to rely on servicing or Samsung itself. Looking back, I'm not so sure the money saved buying from them was worth it. If anyone can help me, I would appreciate it. I did try the unplug thing too.
Thanks. |
New member Username: Daveshafer
Poulsbo,
WA
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 03:04 pm: |
|
Diane,
I am confident the noise is not from a transformer. There are no moving parts in transformers. They might hum a little bit, but won't squeel. The squeeling would only be from a fan or the color wheel...or a mouse who doesn't like the heat.  .
My picture is still good too, even with the sqeeling. However, the squeeling has gotten so loud it is unbearable to try to watch TV even with the volume turned up.
Fortunately, I bought the extended warranty, but can't get help over the weekend...will have to wait until next week I guess.
Dave |
New member Username: Daveshafer
Poulsbo,
WA
USA
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 03:09 pm: |
|
Sogelegos,
I am not an expert, but have seen other posts that recommend checking that the bulb is properly seated. Sometimes in shipping they get loose and might work for a couple days, then have a problem.
I had to replace the bulb on my set several months ago and when it started to go it worked somewhat intermittently like you describe. But you want to be sure that is what the problem is, because they are not cheap. Also, if you don't have a spare bulb, I recommend getting one so you don't have to wait when it eventually goes...which it will.
Dave |
Sogelegos Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 06:19 pm: |
|
Thanks for the suggestion, but I tried it and the lamp wasn't loose at all. I am still stuck with the same problem. Plus, as I said before the remote won't work at all. It will turn the TV on, but I can't get the menu, volume, channel, source. Nothing the only thing that happens is the green timer led flashes whenever I push a button on the remote. The buttons on the side don't work either. I suspect it's a software issue or something like that. I'll try almost any suggestion, really don't want to have to go through the warranty ringer. Thanks again. |
Diane S Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 06:54 am: |
|
Thank you for your response. Yes mine is soooooo loud that I don't even want to turn on the TV. Someone did tell me that the bulb could be loose, that the fillaments in the lamp could be vibrating and that may cause the buzzing sound. Who knows will have a tech come out and check on it. I thought when the bulb was bad that the pic would also go? And what about the color wheel will the pic go bad with that as well? |
Silver Member Username: Helpful_smurf
Post Number: 176
Registered: Jun-05
|
| Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 06:56 am: |
|
Have you tried unplugging the set for a few minutes and then plugging it back in. This reboots the set. The non working buttons makes me think this might help.
|
New member Username: Dlpfreak
Paradise,
CA
USA
Post Number: 6
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 08:16 am: |
|
I have found, as Helpful Smurf suggests, that unplugging a computer, lan, TV, Satellite-box etc. to cure MANY problems and even I forget that should be the first try.
Diana, I would bet the farm it is NOT the filament as they don't even like vibration. They even sometimes disintegrate if you bump them. That is why there is a cool down lapse when you turn off the set, so that they last longer. Someone suggested th whack the bulb!!?? Costly mistake. My set is 2.5 years old and we watch a LOT of TV as we are retired and haven't changed a bulb yet. Buying a spare and having it set idle when you can have one the next day seems economically foolish as the bulb was $300 when I bought the set and now $200 and should drop further. |
Mr. Gary Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 09:24 am: |
|
Sogelegos - not sure with your model is this applies. There have been past posts about the remote not working and funny stuff happens. Cure for this could be the big round push button with the 3 light indicators. Some times it gets stuck in and screws up the controls. Check yours to make sure it is not stuck. Let me know if that helps. |
New member Username: Dlpfreak
Paradise,
CA
USA
Post Number: 7
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 06:22 pm: |
|
Well Gang
I just finished replacing the Color Wheel and all is quite on the Western front. A job NOT for the faint of heart. I have built 4 color TV's in the 60's and I found it quite exhausting changing the wheel. You have to pull the back completely off, half the chassis out, unplug many cables, remove a LOT of screws, and PRAY that all is well when it is done. I bought a service manual and it wasn't a great help as they don't show or tell how to do it, step by step. So, again I would pay a tech to replace that color wheel. As for the Lamp, a piece of cake, a 4 year old could do that. My wife is elated not hearing that squeal!!!
Those that have a SQUEAL are surly looking at a new color wheel, Sorry there is no easy cure.
|
sogelegos Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 01:10 am: |
|
I did leave it unplugged for quite awhile, and it didn't help at all. As for the button suggestion, it doesn't seem stuck or to be any different from how it was when i got it, but I'l check it out. Anyone else think it could be a software problem? |
New member Username: Asheh
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-06
|
| Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 11:05 am: |
|
BLUE COLORED ON SCREEN MENUS
I have a Samsung TXN3075 WHF and it works fine. However, the on-screen menus (channel, volumne, even option menues) used to be of light colors (for example white, green, etc) but they are all DARK BLUE NOW. It is very hard to read them and it is annoying. Is there a way to revert them back? SOMETIMES when I start the TV, the menus are light-colored but after a few minutes they go back to BLUE. Appreciate your help, since I can't find the answer in the BBS or manuals.
|
janesca Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 03:56 pm: |
|
I have a new HLR5067W. So far, so good. My problem is connecting a VCR (also a Samsung). I have Brighthouse cable DVR, their instructions are to connect the incoming cable to the DVR box and out to the TV. Then use the video/audio out ports from the DVR box to the video/audio in ports on the back of the VCR, then use the video/audio out ports from the VCR to the in ports on the TV. It always worked fine for me on my last TV, but now I can't record anything to the VCR. I can play a pre-recorded VHS just fine, but can't record. I know it sounds redundant, why would I need to record on a VCR if I have a DVR cable box, but my husband likes to save some of the 'do it yourself' shows on VHS tape.
I have spent HOURS on this and have it narrowed down to something in the TV setup, but can't figure out exactly what. The VCR is on ch. 3, I think the TV is at ch. 3 but I tried using that stupid TV Guide thing, which you can't utilize with a DVR box anyway, and I think maybe that might be causing my problem, but don't know how to figure it out or fix it. Any ideas??? |
tvshopper Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 04:28 pm: |
|
janesca,
In order to record on the VCR you will have to split the cable and send one to the DVR and one to the VCR. Then hook up both the DVR and the VCR to the TV via the proper cables to individual inputs on the TV. The VCR and DVR will then act independently and you will be able to record to both. The only problem with this method is that anything in the upper regions of the channel spectrums (i.e over channel 99) will not be able to be accessed through the VCR.
I hope this helps. |
janesca Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 04:42 pm: |
|
Sounds reasonable and logical, I did try that, (believe me I have spent hours at this and tried all sorts of combinations!) and I can record from the cable box a show that is on the tv screen, but if I played back a show saved on the DVR, instead of that show getting taped, what got taped was whatever channel the cable box was tuned to and not the show being viewed on playback. Thanks for your reply, I appreciate the input, will try it again, just in case!
|
AuburnDarin Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 07:39 pm: |
|
I wanted to follow up on my earlier post about the solarization and color issue I was having. Tech came out and moved my delay down to under 200 in the service menu (it was like 238 or something). I had made some adjustments in the submenus but nothing helped it until he made those adjustments. He mentioned that power surges can cause strange things to happen with the DLP settings. Perhaps taking a quick inventory of your settings when things are good, might help in the future if this happens to someone else. Just thought I'd pass along what I found out. |
H Colmbs Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 10:24 pm: |
| |
