| Author |
Thread: Archive through May 23, 2005 |
    
New member Username: Veruska
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-05
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| Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2005 - 07:19 pm: |
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Hi,
I did not find posts with the same problem I have: my TV is a HLP5063 and I've had this tv since Nov 04. About 3-4 times when turning the TV on, a grid pattern (similar to a convergence test pattern) appeared accross the screen. The grid is about 2/3 inches appart and grid is multicolored. It goes away when you turn off the TV for about 30 min. Sound remains normal.
Any clues??? Thank you for your help. |
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Relevant Product Info
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Dave in Nevada Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2005 - 01:41 am: |
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Yarmo, Anyone,
I have found out that if I put a floor fan blowing behind the TV across the back that the picture stays ok. So it definately is something heating up and breaking down causing the strope/flashing problem. I was gonna blow it out with air but am reluctant to in case it puts dust and crud in places like on the screen or mirror and just compounds the original problem with additional problems. Any thoughts? |
Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 12:03 am: |
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Anyone have ghosting problems with HLN617? It's going on 2 years old but been a great TV. Ghosting more noticeable on script.
Thanks |
DLP owner for now Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 03:26 am: |
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Howdy, I've read virtually all of this board and didn't find a specific answer to my following question. I just bought a HLP 5063W (50")and was extremely happy with every aspect of it until I tried to play some games on it with my PS2. Where I experienced the full second lag on every game I played. I beleive that I read that the HLP5067 (50") is the only DLP that does not have video game lag issues. If this is true, what should be my gameplan. Should I just not bother with anything and return it for full refund to Best Buy. Or call Samsung and see what they can offer? I refuse to pay this amount of money for a TV and not be able to play games on it. Is it true that the HLP5067 (50") is the only model without video game lag issues? Help or opinion would be much appreciated. |
Reply to DLP owner Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 10:06 am: |
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The 67, 77, and newer releases coming this summer are fine for gaming.
Are you using component cables?
Is your PS2 set for progressive scan?
If so, it won't be a full second lag!
This applies only to games supporting progressive scan. |
Reply to brewer01 Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 10:24 am: |
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Irregular ghosting is usually signal related, generally with standard definition cable signal. Script or letter crawls are on standard def channels.
The single DMD chip doesn't suffer from convergence.
It is so precise that it will reproduce a bad signal perfectly.
Garbage in...garbage out! |
DLP owner for now Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 01:50 pm: |
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Hey thanks alot for the fast response. Yeah, when I first had the problem I went right back out and got the component cables and it really had no effect. Yeah progressive scan is on. I'm a pretty big gamer, so it's something I can't live with.
What are opinions on going with a 67 or 77 or waiting for the new models???? Anyone with one that plays games on it, please feel free to reccommend. Thanks! |
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| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 05:28 pm: |
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DLP owner - I just got the HLR-4677 and have experienced no lag with my PS2. I tried out a few games (using my old RGA cables) and everything worked fine. I was not that impressed with the graphics, which is probably due to the RGA cables and lack of progressive scan. Do you know where I change my PS2 to progressive scan? |
DLP owner for now Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 06:49 pm: |
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Thanks Paul,
Is it the new slim design or the old bulky ps2 (which I have)? I think i've heard that only the new ones have that as an option. Cant find it on my old ps2. |
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Reply to DLP owner Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 07:37 pm: |
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Old tv? Old game box!
New tv? New game box!
Better yet...pc games!
Superior graphics!!!
Let's not regress to the Commadore 64!
DLP owner,
That 63 has a PC monitor connection!
Use a Powerstrip driver. Google it!
That 77 doesn't! Not sure about pc to DVI/HDMI compatability.
When you said, "Yeah progressive scan is on." you must have misunderstood! The option is in the PS2 menu. The game must also say it supports progressive scan mode. |
DLP owner for now Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 - 08:34 pm: |
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Oh, I thought it was just an option that you turn on or off? Besides, very few games actually use progressive scan. Am I correct when i say this? I'm going to purchase a new slim model PS2 and see if that works for a last ditch effort before I return the TV. Does anyone have one (HLP 5063W) that actually plays PS2 games on it, lag free???
Thanks |
Reply to DLP owner Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2005 - 01:37 am: |
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You saved a lot of money buying a high def HLP5063W.
You are basing your decision to keep it on a lower than 480I signal source from an almost obsolete game box.
If it means that much to you to have a big display for your inferior signal gaming craze you could have bought a rear projection CRT.
The DLP chip is a precision micro-mirror device designed to display 720P in a very beautiful way. It wasn't designed for VCR's or slow scan game boxes. It will display 1280X1024 pc signal perfectly. PC gaming will blow you away. Sometimes it's time to move on to better things.
Otherwise, the 5067 or CRT was the way to go. |
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| Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2005 - 09:23 pm: |
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DLP Owner - I have an older PS2 that I bought roughly 3 years ago. I have not checked to see if I can switch it to Progressive Scan yet. I would rather hook up my PC to the TV and play Half-Life2 or Battlefield 1942. Unfortunately the new 77's do not have DVI inputs. I plan on upgrading my graphics card when Battlefield 2 comes out this Summer. I wonder if the newer graphics cards have HDMI outputs? |
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| Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 01:58 pm: |
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DLP Lamp failures: I purchased my HLN437W in May '03 and had my first lamp faiure 1 yr later @ 600 hrs and then a second failure after another yr with 900 hrs, plus the color wheel had to be replaced. When I purchased the set, I was told ~7000 hrs with bulb cost ~$200. Thinking that my maintenance cost would be minimal over ~7 yrs - instead I am out $700 (color wheel, lamp, and labor - post warranty)and expect at least $300/yr with lamp & labor costs. This makes me angry! After seeing all the posts talking about bulb life being very low, I think that Samsung misrepresented their product and should be made accountable. |
Dave in Nevada Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 02:27 pm: |
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Yarmo,
Did you have any luck getting an answer to your flashing/strobing problem. Did the ballast replacement do the trick? My temp fix of blowing a floor fan along the back to help keep whatever is heating up cooled down no longer works, so I'm looking for help.
thanks
Dave |
Reply to Anon Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 09:09 pm: |
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Anon,
You are a prime example of why the extended warranty that also covers lamps is the only way to go!
Some lamps will last 10k hours and some won't last 50 hours.
Samsung doesn't make the lamps! Phillips is the best!
Here is a great article about lamps!
http://www.cherrywood-av.co.uk/guides/Lamps.pdf
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Reesenut Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2005 - 01:55 am: |
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Here is my warranty work story
I purchased a Sammy HLP4663w in January 05. Started hearing buzzing noise in April. I called toll free # for CC warranty plan and they hooked me up with local repair dealer. Local dealer said the fan needed to be replaced and he had to take the set back to their shop. Dealer called me 2 days later and asked me to call Samsung since they would not return their calls for replacement parts. Samsung informed me the local dealer should have never been involved because Samsung handles warranty work in first year. They also told me replacing a fan is a 20 minute job and the TV should have never left my house. Samsung calls local dealer and tells them to bring the TV back to my house and they set up an appointment for a Samsung tech to come in the next day. Samsung tech diagnoses problem within 60 seconds and in 30 minutes replaces color wheel, calibrates color, checks my bulb and gives me a cleaning kit for my screen. TV is working great. I love this set the picture in HD is jaw dropping.
Summary: I should have gone straight to Samsung and not been referred to a local repair shop by the CC warranty people. Samsung and their tech support were outstanding. They were courteous, quick to respond and their technical expertise was outstanding. I am seriously considering canceling my extended warranty with CC , since I would have reservations about having their local service reps touch my TV again. Samsung is suppose to be offering an extended warrany in the future which might be the better way to go depending on who your local CC contracts with to do their repair service. |
New member Username: Drjcl
Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-05
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| Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2005 - 07:57 pm: |
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RAINBOW EFFECT... I am seeing the rainbow effect on my new HLP5674W. Any suggestions on how to minimize this effect?? |
Reply to jcl Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Monday, April 25, 2005 - 12:40 am: |
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If you are one of the very few people who continually see color tripletts in any room light, then DLP may not be for you. The 74 does have a slower six segment color wheel turning at 9000rpm. The 63 and the new 68's have a seven segment turning 10800rpm, which is less likely to render the rainbow effect. |
New member Username: G30
Post Number: 6
Registered: Feb-05
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| Posted on Monday, April 25, 2005 - 10:51 am: |
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jcl
If you watch you TV in the dark, try backlighting it. This worked well for me as it gives your eyes a point of reference. You can alos try reducing the Contrast setting. |
jesse c Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2005 - 03:56 pm: |
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I have the annoying smudges on the reight and left side of my samsung hlp5063. The tech will be out in a week to replace the screen. However, after reading some of these messages I am wary that the new screen will be hazy and not as clear as my old one. Does anyone have any comments? What should I do?
Also, a couple of times an hour I lose the picture for 2-3 sec, but not the audio. My tv is hooked up to a directv hd receiver (H10) via hdmi cable. Is this a problem with the tv, hd receiver, or the cable?!
thanks for your input!!! |
New member Username: Nightbreeder
Npvi,
Mi
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-05
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| Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2005 - 07:22 pm: |
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Yes I can tell you from my experience that the screen quality is not the same. Live with the smudges they disappear after 30 minutes.
Try to go to component instead of the HDMI and see if the picture stays stable.
Good luck !!!! |
Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2005 - 11:54 pm: |
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Hello All,
We bought a Samsung DLP - Model HLP6163WX back in mid-December, 2004, from Sears. The picture looked fine and we didn't notice any issues until one night a month ago I was watching something with a light background and suddenly I saw a bunch of smudges and blotches. I thought they were on the outside of the screen, but after careful examination and a quick wipe I concluded that somehow they were on the inside the screen! I was shocked after spending over $3k on this set!
I did some digging on Samsungs web site and Googled some other info. After reading about other smudge issues from other Samsung DLP owners I called Samsung and they referred me to Sears. Apparently Sears buys the warranty from Samsung, so they will be responsible for fixing the issue.
Sears has scheduled an independent TV repair service to come out to my house this Friday. When I spoke to the TV repair tech he said he thought my issues were caused by a bad light engine! I mentioned to him that I had found info about known problems with the screen, but he dismissed that. I'm not overly confident that he will get this fixed. 
Anyway, if anyone wants to see what my smudges look like I just took some video and have four small (1-3 MB's) files that show my smudge issues. Drop me an email and I will send them along.
Good luck everyone, I'll let you know what happens this Friday.
Patrick |
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| Posted on Thursday, April 28, 2005 - 03:30 am: |
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Thinking about buying the HL-R5677W and haven't read many posts about this model. Does that mean they're relatively problem free? Is this model indeed the 4th and newest generation Sammy DLP that my friend said to me?
I did see that the cablecard has had some problems. Can anyone provide advice on buying this model?
If anything (that I got out of reading these posts) I will plan on buying the extended service contract. |
To Opie Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Friday, April 29, 2005 - 12:52 am: |
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The Cablecard system is riddled with glitches. It's a big headache! Some loose channels, most everyone looses the cable guide and and pay per view. New firmware updates tend to fail.
The internal digital HD tuner can only provide digital network off-air broadcasts. Other HD channels require a set top box.
The 77 is replacing the 74, which is still widely available. It's the same HD2+ set, but meets the new FCC requirement of providing the digital tuner.
Personally, I don't want my tuner inside my set. I have a Samsung SIR TS360 Direct TV HD/Terrestrial receiver and it's fabulous! The 74 is less expensive and that makes it even better in my opinion. |
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| Posted on Friday, April 29, 2005 - 03:14 am: |
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Opie -
I have a HL-R4677W and it is a gem. I am hooked up through a HD Time Warner DVR box, so I have no need for the cable card or internal tuner. The 74 is identical to the 77 and the picture is amazing. The 74 has more inputs (DVI) than the 77, so go for the 74 - esspecially if they are cheaper.
The speakers are really good too! |
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| Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 06:31 pm: |
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I have been waiting for the HLR6167W, which I thought was going to have the HD2+ chip. I've seen some information that says the set would have an HD4. I just spoke to a Tweeters rep, who tells me that the set is now available, but it has an HD3 chip. Can anyone tell me if this is accurate? If there is an HD4, is it like the HD3 or an improvement? I also understand that a 61" 77 series model is due out, and it will have the HD2+ chip. Does anyone know when this 6177W is scheduled to hit the market? |
To Fred Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 12:34 am: |
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The 67's have been around for a while.
They have the HD3, same as the 63's.
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=8192825&search=samsung+6 167
The 77's are available too, but not in the 61" size.
They have the newer HD2+ chip like the 74's and have taken the place of the 74's. Only difference from the 74 is the worthless CableCard system and the practically useless internal digital tuner. I prefer to keep my HD tuning seperate from my set.
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?sort_type=price&masterid=8192826& isbn=&pid=
The xHD3 or HD4 or whatever they call it will appear in the 68's and 88's this summer. I think the large screen is 67". (HLR6768)
http://www.hwhpr.com/prclients/samsung/ces05/DLPCES05_PR.html |
Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 09:02 pm: |
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For "Dave in Nevada"
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner -- been out of town for a couple of weeks.
Replacing the ballast cured the problem. TV is working great now using the original bulb. This was covered under my ESP and the repairman opted to go ahead and replace the color wheel while he was in there (nice of them to do that).
I read your other posts and I can concur that my TV would do the same thing; that is, if we turned it off and let it cool down, we could get another 2 hours or so of good picture before the strobing effect would return.
As I mentioned in my post on April 15, the ballast for your model is listed at $146.76 [part# BP47-00016A]. I can also tell you that if you spend the extra $22 to get the service manual, it does have detailed illustrations that describe the process for replacing all of the parts. I have obtained one for my model for posterity.
Reply to FYI
The service manual is well worth the $20-$25 you have to spend to get it (IMO). It includes the settings information and charts for the various adjustable settings accessible through the service menu. It even includes the full electrical schematic diagrams for all circuitry. There are even a couple of specific mentions on how to troubleshoot some of the more common complaints like color wheel noise. |
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| Posted on Monday, May 02, 2005 - 04:08 pm: |
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Hello All;
I purchased an HLP5063 about a month ago, and find the picture quality to be absolutely outstanding. I use Comcast's HD Box, and the Samsung HD-841 DVD player. HD is really breathtaking, and most DVD's look pretty darn good from my 10' back viewing position.
I have had one occurence of the "lights flashing nothing works," and cured it by unplugging, waiting, and reconnecting - Effecting a re-boot of the system. With the micros employed in everything electronic these days, it actually seems the norm to have to periodically reboot our equipment.
I am on my 2nd Pioneer HT receiver, and I occasionally have had to reboot either of those also. They would lock up & "lose their minds" with powerline glitches and the like, until unplugged and restarted.
Perhaps if Samsung provided a "CTRL-ALT-DEL" button next to the power switch, we'd realize it was nothing more than what we experience with our PCs all the time ;-)
Does anyone have an economical source for the Phillips projection lamps? I'd like to have one in reserve, before my 1.9 years is up . . .
Best Regards,
Ken
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New member Username: Drjcl
Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-05
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 01:19 pm: |
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I was able to get my new screen installed for my HLP5674W. The tech said the lamp was fine.. that it is a Phillips lamp. And that there is NOTHING he can do about the "Rainbow Effect" that I notice. Other than the Rainbow Effect, the HD picture is incredible.. I have to hold my head and eyes perfectly still to avoid see bands of red/green/blue. If I even look over with my eyes to pick up my beverage, I get the annoying effect.... ANY SUGGESTIONS?? |
Silver Member Username: Mr_lynch
Seattle,
WA
Post Number: 718
Registered: Sep-04
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 01:36 pm: |
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My my own personal experience, once I started seeing rainbows it seems to get worse and worse. It is very easy for me to pick out the DLP sets in a store and I wish that wasn't the case. I had a HLP5085, but I ended up returning it for a JVC Dila because it uses 3 chips and no color wheel. |
New member Username: Drjcl
Post Number: 5
Registered: Apr-05
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 01:45 pm: |
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What about the new HLR's, what number segment color wheel and RPM will they have.. looking for a 56 inch. |
New member Username: Drjcl
Post Number: 6
Registered: Apr-05
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 01:47 pm: |
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TO GEO,
What do you mean by "backlighting" the screen to reduce rainbow effect... please explain in detail what you did. My TV sits in a media niche, so there is not much room on the sides, there is some room behind and on top.
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynch
Seattle,
WA
Post Number: 719
Registered: Sep-04
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 02:01 pm: |
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jcl-
Come to think of it, I did not notice rainbows with the new Panasonic DLP that uses an 8 segment colorwheel that runs at 10,800 rpm. Does Samsung sell a similar setup? |
New member Username: Dave_in_nevada
Fallon,
NV
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-05
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 02:24 pm: |
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Yarmo,
Glad to hear the ballast cured your problem. I put one on order last night.
I ordered and received the manual and a replacement bulb last week and installed the new bulb on Sat. So far it has been working as it should with no strobe effects but I'm not confident that it will last. Thus, the reason I ordered the ballast.
Some of the manual is way too deep for me, but it is definately a good deal in today's market.I'm glad I had it since it kept me from doing a couple of things I was thinking about that I would have really regreted.
The original lamp I had that lasted approx 5k hours was a 120W lamp. The first replacement I ordered (11 Feb 05) was a BP96-00224J (philips 120W) lamp which was the number on the label of the box but inside was a lamp with a P/N BP96-00224C(P) which was a philips 100W lamp. When installed it didn't appear to be as bright as the original one so I sent an E-mail to Samsung parts with my concerns.
I thought that a 100W lamp will not be as bright as a 120W lamp. The E-mail answer was as follows: "The wattage of the lamp is determined by the ballast, not the lamp. This is a common misconception. The lamp you have is the correct lamp".
The lamp I received and installed two days ago was a BP96-00224B(O) 120W lamp and it is still working okay. I realize I may have a couple of different problems going on but am curious if the comments on the ballast determining the wattage is correct.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Dave |
New member Username: Dave_in_nevada
Fallon,
NV
USA
Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-05
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 09:17 pm: |
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Yarmo,
Addition to previous post.
Just when I walked in the door from work today the new lamp started the strope flashing. So much for my good luck with the new lamp. My wife found a good way to describe the condition: It looks like a Andy Warhol painting!
Hurry ballast! |
Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 09:24 pm: |
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Reply to Dave,
It is true that a ballast controls and determines the level of power delivered to the lamp it is connected to, however, that does not mean that the lamp wattage is irrelevant. Ballasts are necessary for the types of lamps used in projectors, street lamps, etc, which are generally referred to as HID lamps (High-Intensity Discharge). HIDs usually have some type of gas inside them that enables the lamp to burn very brightly by producing an arc. These lamps require a high burst of voltage (sometimes 5000+ volts) in order to ignite the gasses inside them and then require much lower but varying levels of current to maintain the arc that is created from the ignition. As the HID lamp continues to 'burn', it will get hotter, draw varying levels of electrical current, as well as produce more and more resistance until it finally completes the warmup phase and reaches an equilibrium. The ballast provides the proper flow of current to keep the lamp ignited and also works as a safety mechanism that controls the current and impedence that would otherwise cause a circuit to fail or the lamp to eventually burn out or even explode.
So the ballast and the lamp function more as a unit rather than as two separate elements. The ballast controls the power given to the lamp and the lamp power determines the brightness and quality of the light used to generate the picture. If, for instance, you were to deliver 120W to a 100W lamp, the lamp would burn brighter but wouldn't last as long. I'm not sure exactly what would happen if you inverted the disproportion, but I suppose it is possible that the ballast might wear out sooner. Ballasts don't last forever either, but they usually don't need to be replaced anywhere near as often as lamps. I'm sure you have encountered a fourescent light fixture that hums loudly when powered on; that is most likely a ballast that is going bad.
In more direct answer to your question, a 120W lamp should, by definition, produce brighter light than a 100W lamp, but only if it is truly producing 100W. It may be that the ballast is producing only 100W of power, which would in theory mean that the lamp is running at the same 100W as before, but well under the max 120W power rating for the lamp. I don't know what the ballast wattage rating is so it's hard to say, but traditional thinking would suggest that the ideal design would be to have the ballast and the lamp rated at the same wattage. If the wattage on the lamp is higher and it does no significant harm to the ballast, then the result may actually be a longer lasting lamp. Alternatively, it could be that Samsung has figured out that they were running 120W ballasts with 100W lamps, which caused excessive lamp failures, and have just decided to quietly correct the problem.
Good luck, and let us know how the repairs go. |
Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 09:45 pm: |
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Reply to Spidey's May 2 post:
I checked with a few alternate online vendors and none of them had the lamps as cheap as I was able to buy them from SamsungParts.com. Most of them wanted over $250.00 USD for lamps that were not even the latest version. One vendor was asking over $350 for a version A lamp, which is outrageous. It's not often that the original manufacturer has the best prices on replacement parts, but that seems to be the case here.
Best Regards... |
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| Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 08:36 am: |
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jcl:
Just as you become "trained" to see rainbows, the mind can get used to the conditions where you do not see them. I have a 4674 and seldom now see them. I taught my wife to see them with an earlier model and neither of us have any real problem, but the learning curve can be annoying. Backlighting the room does help. The same effect is used in some plasmas to enhance perceived blacklevels. I have a couple of automatic nightlights on each side of the entertainment center. This cretes a wash of light at night which minimizes the effect of high contrast scenes , such as rolling credits, which are probably the worst for rainbows. During the day rainbows are virtually non-existant. It seems to be best though if the light source is not behind the viewing area. |
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| Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 11:28 am: |
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Hi Yarmo:
Thanks for the info - I too am surprised that Samsung parts would have the best price. It does make for great customer relations, however.
Best Regards,
Ken |
New member Username: Rich
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-05
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| Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 11:01 pm: |
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I recently purchased an hlp-503w. Everything was working fine when last week I started to hear a popping sound. I eventually went away, but it's back again, and it doesn't matter what channel. It kind of sounds like static, like when you shock someone. Has anyone encountered this?
Thanks,
Rich |
Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 12:16 am: |
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Reply to Rich's May 4 Post
I've not personally encountered or heard of anyone else that has had the problem you describe. If it is happening on every channel, are you able to determine at least whether the sound is coming from the audio or something internal to the television? Knowing that your particular setup could be configured in any one of a hundred or more ways it would be hard to get too detailed in describing what I would do, but this is the approach I would take:
1) Disconnect all other components from the TV including Satellite, AV Receiver, DVD, VCR, etc, (whatever you have / all of it) and then test it in some way to see if the problem is still there. Basically, you want to see if the behavior continues even when the TV is disconnected from everything.
2) If the problem goes away, then connect each device one at a time and test each time until you can identify which device is associated with the problem. This could get tedious going through each single device, but the problem may be resulting from some sort of audio signal problem from one or more of the peripheral devices.
3) If the problem does not go away and the TV exhibits the same behavior even when nothing is connected to it, then you should contact Samsung or your warranty service to have it checked.
Important Note: If the popping sound truly is coming from the TV even when nothing else is connected, you might want to be careful in case you are dealing with some sort of electrical issue -- If you're not sure, best not operate it until it can be checked. I'd also advise leaving it unplugged until it can be serviced just to be on the safe side -- no good if it has a short and catches fire somehow while you're waiting for it to be serviced. If you're not concerned that it might be some sort of electrical fault, then disregard.
Good luck on it and let us know how it turns out!
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Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 02:08 pm: |
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I have Sammy HLN 61" and 43" DLP sets with a very strange problem affecting both units. Reception is good, HD signal looks amazing, but DVDs look only fair (grainy and slightly blurry regardless of age of movie, i.e., Lawrence of Arabia to Pirates of the Caribbean). In addition, the still shots in the scene selection menu are of terrible quality. They almost appear broken up. Sometimes when the still shots come up, you can see them literally shift out of focus. I've switched out HDMI DVD players (Sony to Toshiba to Samsung), upgraded the cables (trying both Monster component and DVI) and even had two different A/V guys check the setup. I bought the TVs specifically to watch DVDs, so I'm not happy. How can the cable picture look so good and DVDs look fair at best? Samsung is at a loss to explain how the same problem could be happening to two different TVs. Since I bought the TVs at the same time, I'm wondering if there's a defect in the component and DVI inputs. Any thoughts from the group? Would greatly appreciate your help. |
New member Username: Dave_in_nevada
Fallon,
NV
USA
Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-05
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| Posted on Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 09:10 pm: |
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Yarmo,
I installed the ballast thur. night and everything was great. No more strobbing. Well unfortunantly today it started the same thing, so I'm back to square one. After about 15-20 minutes the flashing strobe effect starts again. Do you have any ideas? I hate to call a repair service and start trying to explain the whole process to someone not familiar with Samsung DLP TV's. My experience in the past has not been very good and it seems like most are just parts changers. Last time I had work done the TV was still under warranty and they had to have an authorized repair tech from Las Vegas (380 miles away) get hold of a freelance repair tech from Reno (60 miles away) to do the repair that consisted of swapping out the light engine.It means even more now that I am paying for the repairs.
thanks,
Dave
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New member Username: Sturmy
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-05
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| Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2005 - 11:53 pm: |
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Help! I have two problems with my Samsung HLN-617W1.
1) Occasionally when I turn it on, the sound will come in but there will be no picture. It will then turn itself off and back on a couple times before getting the three lights of death. Then, it will randomly start working after a few more tries. It's driving me nuts!
2) The picture seems grainy. I have a plasma and an LCD TV in the same house and those pictures are super sharp. The DLP is not even close. Any suggestions?
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To John Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Monday, May 09, 2005 - 01:25 am: |
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The gap on your mercury lamp is wide. It has burned itself back to the point of intermittent operation. Some lamps last longer than others depending on circumstances of use. A Phillips lamp will last longer.
Digital pictures are never never grainy.
Analog standard definition NTSC cable signal is trash before it gets to the set. Sat signal stays digital and is always clear.
Is your DVD player grainy? No!
Then you have a crappy cable signal. |
CerealKiller Unregistered guest |
| Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2005 - 01:33 pm: |
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Hey guys I have a 50" SAMSUNG HLP5063 DLP TV and I am a complete noob with this new TV stuff. I had my old style Playstaion2 and Direct TV hooked up with just A/V cables and that looked pretty crappy. Switched out the PS2 cables for component cables and it looks a little better but nothing to write home about. My first question is I went into the PS2 config and set it to 16:9, is this right? My TV is also set to 16:9. Should I leave the PS2 at 4:3? When I hit info on the TV I believe it says 720x480 @60Hz. I just want to know the best way to setup my PS2 so I can get the BEST visual quality out of it. God of War has a progressive scan mode from within the game which does make it look alot better but then I notice the jagged edges even more - it's like it needs anti-aliasing added to it or something.
Also if I get the HDTV reciver from Direct TV with the HDMI hookup will this make regular channels look better or only HD ones? Right now the reciver DirectTV gives you only has regular A/V cable hookups and S-video nothing really digital. I won't be ordering the HD package, but if spending $299 on a reciver with HDMI hookup will make all satelite viewing better it might be worth it to me.
My last component is a Sony DVD player, it only has component out and A/V so I'm guessing if I get a HDMI or DVI compatible DVD player it will look much better?
Thanks in advance for any help. |
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| Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2005 - 02:22 pm: |
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Samsung projection 50" HD TV HLP5085W
I bought this new TV from Circuit City on March 21st, 2005, and on April 1st, 2005, I had Directv installed. Previous to this I had cable. Great picture on this TV but I have had this recurring problem. Every so often the picture blacks out for about a second and then returns to normal. It will occur about 3 or 4 times during an hour long show. It occurs on HD and regular programs alike. Directv, on their telephone help, have had me do all types of things including changing out the HD receiver. When that didn't work they sent me a new access card for the same receiver. The bl |
