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Thread: Samsung DLP problems - Help! |
    
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 70
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2008 - 06:01 pm: |
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Kelly and Dank - The one color problem could be either your color wheel or your DMD board. The DMD board controls the colorwheel RPM in order to create the vibrant exact colors that you see. I would call your warranty provider for an inpection! |
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Relevant Product Info
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Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 71
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2008 - 06:08 pm: |
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Brad Peppers: It seems to me that you are electronic savey enough to check that board for SMFs (surface mount fuse) and SMDs (surface mount diodes) to see if there is any open circuits preventing the board to send power to the fan. The TV doesn't necesarily detect the RPMs of the fan, rather checks to see if all circuits are in tact that lead to the Fan. You might want to take a closer look at the board before you replace it. Also, a factory reset may help as well.. I believe I saw a function in one of the service menu's about turning fan sensor or the actual fan on/off/auto .. If you have enough time with the set on you may want to look into it. |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 72
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2008 - 06:11 pm: |
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Paul Stap: The problem you are describing is 100% the color wheel. Your part number for your TV sets color is BP96-01103A ... Order it, install it, and your good to go again!
Satisfaction Gauranteed! Let us know how it goes. |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 73
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2008 - 06:16 pm: |
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Bob,
Your best diagnosis would be to replace the lamp. Faulty lamps can work anywhere between 2 minutes to 2 hours before shutting off. Again, my favorite provider is Discount-Merchant.com ... $109.99 + $11 shipping.. You can't loose. Cheaper than a service call. You buy 2 lamps, they ship for free.. ONLY IF YOU ASK THEM ABOUT THAT PROMO!
If the lamp doesn't resolve the issue, your ballast is at fault.
3 peices in your TV may go bad in order to cause this intermittent problem...
1. Lamp
2. Color Wheel
3. Ballast
I'm assuming your TV doesn't hum, whine, or make as scratching noise before it turns off or when it is on.. So I would go with 1 and 3. |
New member Username: Bpepers
Post Number: 3
Registered: Dec-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 02, 2008 - 01:55 am: |
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ovadoggo: I was able to track down that the surface mount part BD151 is fried (visible char marks around it) and on the schematic diagram its on the analog board and part of the circuit supplying power to the sub detector/actuator which is what powers the fan and its even on the 12V line which is the power to the fan. So I'm pretty sure thats my problem.
I haven't figured out yet if its a surface mount diode or fuse. The part number in the schematic diagram is CIC21J601NE and my best guess is that it is a fuse and I've been debating whether to just solder each side together and see if that fixes things. Any thoughts on whether this is at all wise or incredibly daft? I'm worried that I don't know what caused the part to fry and if I hook it back up, the fuse is now not doing its job and if there is some power supply problem it could fry more things. On the other hand its just the fan that has a problem so it doesn't seem likely that there is a power supply problem and perhaps its just that when the lamp exploded it caused some power spike. I replaced the fan and also the sub detector/actuator board so far so its down now to the analog board.
As for turning off the fan detection, I actually haven't looked through the service menus but I did read the service manual which lists all the options and none of them mention the fan. I'll check the actual TV though just in case the manual is incorrect. I only get around 30 seconds before the set turns off though which makes it hard to check much!
Thanks for your input! |
New member Username: Ap514
Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 02, 2008 - 09:08 am: |
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RE:HELP DLP HL-R6168w
Hey guys opened up the COLOR WHEEL COVER..Wheel is toast..Ordered Wheel Will install in a few days |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 74
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 01:12 am: |
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Brad,
The part you are referring to sounds to be a diod. DO NOT just connect both ends with solder. The diode has a certain impedence wich is consistent to other parts on the circuit. In your case, the CIC refers to refers to a diode, the 21 refers to the size of 2mm x 1.25mm, the J refers to the fact that it has a noise filter of 100mhz to 300mhz, and the 601 (or 60 x 10^1 = 600) refers to its OHMS wich is 600 Ù .. the N stands for the thickness with is Normal or Standard, and E means that it is an embossed (plastic) type.
I know for some people that means nothing, but for others it is a breakdown of the functions of the diode. The part is manufactured by SEM (Samsung Electro-Mechanics) and should be a common diode in other samsung electronics. I'm assuming Radio Shack would carry a compatible diode with those characteristics. If not, call Digikey or Arrow Electronics North America Components to see if you can have them send you a "sample". Hopefully replacing that part will resolve your problem.
I hope I was helpful! |
New member Username: A58strod
Post Number: 4
Registered: Oct-07
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| Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 12:38 pm: |
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ovadoggvo: I tried replacing the bulb already. It did not change a thing. It still clicks on and off and doesn't try to power on what-so-ever. I was considering buying a balast but haven't been to thrilled at the idea of throwing more money at it if it's not the answer. What do you think should be my next step?
Also, for anyone else interseted, I since found out that the bulbs are of florencent nature so they will not measure any resistance, good or bad. |
New member Username: Travel_god
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 12:49 pm: |
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hello all,
i have a samsung hlm507w purchased in 2003. i have had to replace the lamp twice, and the cooling fan once fortunately all under warranty. well 2 weeks after the extended warranty expired the tv shut itself of. if i let it sit for a while then turn it back on it works fine for 3 to 5 minutes then shuts off again. had a repairman out who told my wife the "power unit" was bad. charged her 100.00 to give her that news then offered to take the tv off our hands at no charge. i have searched samsungparts.com and tristatemodule.com. the closest i can come to a "power unit" is a PCB Power Assy - part number BP94-00025A. does anyone know if this is the elusive power unit? and if so can it be replaced by an amateur without destroying the tv. thanks |
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New member Username: Mikoo1965
Post Number: 4
Registered: Aug-05
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| Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 03:45 pm: |
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I have Samsung HL-R5667W for about 2.5 years. I just got new color wheel installed but I see bad picture (got this picture from another post who seems to have same problem) in bad light as you shown below. Anyone have any idea?
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New member Username: Bpepers
Post Number: 4
Registered: Dec-07
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| Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 05:45 pm: |
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ovadoggo: thanks for the hint on who makes the CIC21J601NE. I found the part in the SEM online part list. They list it as a "chip bead" which they say is a SMD passive component to eliminate electromagnetic noise. The CIC series is the high current bead (~3A) and as you say its made to suppress noise in the 100-300 MHz range. Looks to me like its meant to suppress any noise on the circuit that could be coming from the fan so perhaps its not all that vital a component (famous last words???!!!).
I agree that the circuit may be designed for the impedance of 600 ohms so just shorting around the blown SMD may be a bad idea but it doesn't look like this thing is really a diode and its a pretty passive device that could be replaced with a resistor of 600 ohms to maintain its characteristics though not its function. Ideally I'd like to buy just one of these things but I doubt that would be possible from SEM so I'll have to work around it some other way!
I did look at DigiKey and they have a ferrite bead part which is rated at 3A, 600 ohms, and 100Mhz so that sounds like the same kind of thing so perhaps I'll purchase some of them and give that a try.
Thanks for your help and hints! |
New member Username: Al_m
Houston,
TX
US
Post Number: 2
Registered: Nov-07
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| Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 06:51 pm: |
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I have a HLM507W DLP I bought in Dec of 2002. It went out Dec of 2007. 5 years it lasted me. My audio is fine, it's my picture that goes out. Samsung certified Tech came out to check my TV. He took it and they said it was my DM board that was bad. That's an $800 repair on top of the $100 for coming out to my home. I believe the DM board and digital board are one in the same. I called Samsung back to give verification that it was the digital board, but I was told that I was out of warranty and would need to pay for repairs myself. I've read on this forum on people being offered the "S" model for the cost of shipping, but not the case with me. What should I do? Please Help!!! |
New member Username: Txeng
San Fernando
Trinidad and...
Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-07
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| Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 10:25 pm: |
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Hi there. I am new to this very informative and resourceful forum. NEED HELP!
Bought a refurbish Samsung HLR 5067W without warranty. The TV woked for three hours and then the screen went blank. However I was able to get the menu and changed to PIP. Only the sub channel was showing and sound was coming from the main chanel. On swapping, the video changed, still no picture on the main channel. After obtaining a service manual and doing some trouleshooting I identified that the Digital board was the culprit. I replaced the D-Board and this worked fine for about six hours. When I turned on the TV the next day it lit up for two seconds then froze for another second, turned off and restarted. The light bulb is on and no lights on the power button .This cycle was repeted until the TV was unpluged. The power button on both the TV and remote was not turning it off. I then reinstalled the original D-board and now it is doing the same thing as the "new board".
Can someone identify what is causing this problem and provide a solution.
I will be forever grateful.
Much Thanks |
New member Username: Bdubwirth
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 11:56 am: |
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Hello. I have a Samsung HL-P4663W/HL that was purchased new in the fall of 2004. When the TV was approximately 2 years old, it started shutting off between 30 minutes and 2 hours with no error LEDs. The "switch board" was replaced by a certified Samsung tech. Recently, the same issue has started to occur: shuts off, no LEDs, varying times (up to 3 hours at times). No visible changes in the picture quality (i.e. brightness), no strange noises from the TV, and NO error LEDs on the front after shutdown to indicate lamp, overtemp, etc. I have unplugged the TV, but the issue resurfaces. Any thoughts on this issue before I call the tech and Samsung. Thanks. |
New member Username: Lawdog
Post Number: 2
Registered: Sep-05
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| Posted on Sunday, January 20, 2008 - 10:07 am: |
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This looks like a great site with many helpful Samsung-o-philes here. I'm hoping you can help me. I have an HLR5067w I bought in October 2005, and it has been great, no problems. Recently, though, the picture has been starting to get sporadic fluorescent green "feedback" around the edges of images, etc. I haven't read of a similar description of this problem on this site. It seems more or less like image "feedback" of some sort. At first, it started primarily when watching DVR replays, but then last night, it started showing up (again, just for a few seconds here and there) when watching a DVD (thus, from a different video source). I can't imagine it's the inputs, which are fine. I'm worried primarily b/c I see alot of problems on this site with the "digital board", and am hoping that's not the problem. Any thoughts? It doesn't seem like replacing the color wheel or lamp would have anything to do with this, from what I can tell... |
New member Username: Tphanich
San Diego,
CA
US
Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-07
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| Posted on Sunday, January 20, 2008 - 05:31 pm: |
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HEY GUYS! i found a coupon code for samsung lamps on discount-merchant.com
the coupon code is "sbxlii", It's only valid up until Superbowl for $42 off 3 lamps. |
New member Username: Pepcman
Riverside,
CA
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Sunday, January 20, 2008 - 11:10 pm: |
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I have recently aquired a Samsung HL-P6163W rear projection tv from my son and what a great picture but I have a constant low pitched humming sound that if I need to I can live with but I also from time to time am getting a very loud crackling sound that come and goes. After reading many blogs it sounds like this is my color wheel but figured I would discribe mine to make sure I have diagnosed this correctly.
Any help is appreciated,
Jon |
New member Username: Xrufisx
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 10:14 pm: |
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I have a HLP4667 about 3 years old. A while back I noticed that if shut off then turned back on I would loose color. Now, there was still "color" it just seemed as if there was no red present this would stay indefinatly until you read further. Now if i turned the tv off and kept it off for at least 20 minutes then turned it back on the color would still be missing. However, if I waited 5 seconds the color would start flashing in as a seperate image. It appears to move horizontally across the screen at I would say tens of revolutions a second staying in some spots longer than others but always longer in the same spots. Allowing this to continue for about 20 seconds it would "snap" inline with the out of color image and the tv would function perfectly. Until powered down. This technique ONLY worked while the tv was set to dynamic. Now, the color flashes but never "snaps" into place. Had a tech out, he replaced the board the hdmi and dvi connect to but that didnt work. He didnt call me or answer the phone for 3 weeks so screw him. Any suggestions? I have tried a variety of things. The only thing I find worth mentioning is, if I disconnect the color wheel by only the white wire, keeping the flat wire connected, the color wheel upon power up of the unit does make noise everytime it spins up however it is much louder than the normal spin up noise. However with both wires connected just the normal spin up noise occurs. Suggestions and thoughts appriciated. |
New member Username: Xrufisx
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Friday, January 25, 2008 - 01:00 am: |
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Also, if it is not (mute 182) to enter the diagnostics, if anyone knows how that would be awesome. |
Silver Member Username: Jumpback
Post Number: 148
Registered: Nov-05
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| Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 10:44 am: |
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Budding problem.
I have a 61" Samsung DLP that gets a lot of use. It is 18 months old.
Recently, when the set is turned on the sound comes on but there is no picture. I have rebooted Direct TV so that is not the problem.
So far I have been able to get a picture by changing channels. That worked for awhile. Now, when the set cranks up and there is no picture if I mash the source button a picture will appear when I get back to HDMI.
Any guesses as to what the problem is?
Thanks |
New member Username: Ljb
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 01:37 pm: |
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I have a 50" Samsung DLP TV. The screen went black and white like an old burnt 8mm movie when the film gets stuck. I called my TV store and they indicated I needed a new DMD board that would cost about $1000.00. My set was 3 months out of the extended 4 year warranty I purchased. I called Samsung and they could do nothing. I even spoke to Debbie in Samsung Executive Customer Relations and she offered no solutions. I took off the back of the set, bypassed the interlock switch, installed a small kitchen fan behind it to blow on the electronics and it has worked fine ever since. I believe Samsung has the temperature electronics monitor set too low or has inadequate cooling for the electronics. It has worked for almost two weeks now. In the two weeks the lamp went bad that I just installed last year. I put the old lamp that I kept from the last service call back in and it worked! About two days later the old lamp went bad and I replaced it with the new lamp I just took out. It worked too and is still working. I wrote a letter to Samsung and am waiting for a reply. Bottom line, no more Samsung unless the letter from them is a good one. Yea, right! L |
New member Username: Xrufisx
Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 07:51 pm: |
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Update: Tv started doing this, can you see the double image appearing.
. |
New member Username: Giants_fan
Fleetwood ,
Pa
Usa
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 01:24 am: |
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i have a samsung dlp...hlr4266. i use my ps3 on this tv and when i do the tv shuts down. i turn it back on and it will work for a few more minutes then again the same thing. But when i have my ps3 disconnected it works fine. i had it disconnected for over a month and had no problems. then when i connected it again the same thing happened but alot more often. My xbox 360 or my directtv hd dvr does not give me this problem. So is it the ps3 or is it my tv???? |
New member Username: D0517
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-08
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| Posted on Monday, February 04, 2008 - 05:34 pm: |
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I have a 6178W I purchased fall 2005, generally it has worked great, I had to replace the lamp about 3 months ago. I was playing around trying to get HDMI hookups to work with Motorola cable box and new Sony BRDVD to no avail. I went back to component for both but after playing with this I notice a semi transparent vertical grey line on the left side of the screen (about 2 inches in). The rest of the picture is flawless. I have seen what appear to be similar problems in this post but did not notice any suggestion or a fix. Any help would be appreciated.
Dave |
New member Username: Cosmo2
CT
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-08
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 04:25 pm: |
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LJB,
Did you get your DMD replaced, or your set fixed?
I have the same problem on my HLM507W, purchased in Nov. of 2002. Flickering white strobe which gets progressively worse and turns into a photo-negative if you will, becoming pretty much unwatchable.
Called Samsung ECR as well and I got the "we don't have any reports of these symptoms". Offered zero help because tv is out of warranty.
Really hesitant to spend $1000 to fix it. But I would hate to junk a tv that I paid $3500 for just five years ago. Plus when working, I love the picture.
Still very annoyed with Samsung customer care. |
New member Username: Stanman00
Hamilton,
Ontario
Canada
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-08
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 08:37 pm: |
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here is my story i m in canada and bought a samsung hls6186w dlp tv from leons ive had this tv for 14 months did not get extendid warranty big mistake that will never happen again one night it just shut off i tried to turn back on heard a squeeling from it tried to turn itself on a couple of times but no go then just shut off so i waited a bit say 10 min i turned it on and it worked picture came but then it just went black still had sound for a few seconds then it shut off tried to turn back on heard the squeeling again tried to turn itself on again a couple of time then off changed the lamp same thing so icall tech he comes says its the lamp so he tries to change it quess what didnt work what goof this clown was now its a color wheel ballast and lamp hes says all by just listening to it cant belive all three parts are bad tried to get some help from samsung but there goofs too wont help at all tvs only 14months im gonna fix it myself any help would be greatthanx |
New member Username: Why_now
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-08
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| Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 02:07 am: |
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I have a 56 inch samsung model no. HLR5656W. Bought it brand new two years ago and everything was fine until a month ago when it started shutting off on its own and not coming back on for up to four hours later. Then it would come back on and run fine for a few days. Well five days ago it did the same thing again for the fourth time and I haven't been able to turn it on since. I've tried plugging it in in different outlets that I know are working and no response. Its like its not receiving power any longer. Is there any thing I should look for or try on my own before possibly spending a fortune to get it repaired? |
New member Username: Stephen11
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-08
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| Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 12:05 am: |
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I have a 50 inch Samsung HLR5067W. Bought it back in December 05 brand spanking new. Two weeks ago I started having issues where the TV wouldnt turn on. I would hit the power button and the lamp light would blink continously and after a couple of minutes the TV would just go back into standby (power off) mode. So far, out of about 100 attempts, I have only been able to get the TV to turn on twice. Also, I have already replaced the lamp hoping that would fix it but it still doesnt want to turn on. I have seen some similar threads in regards to this issue, but havent come across any answers. Anybody have any ideas as to what the problem is and how to fix it? |
New member Username: Zippychimp
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-07
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| Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 06:52 pm: |
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I have a Samsung HLN 5065W purchased in 9/03 for $4,000. I have had numerous problems with it over the years, and even had the color wheel replaced under warranty about 2 years ago by Samsung. Recently, the picture would suddenly freeze and become this weird black and white pixelated image - almost like a film negative. You can still hear the sound but the picture remains frozen. I took the set to an "authorized" repair center in my area and they told me today that it needs a new light engine and that my DMD module is bad. They quoted me $800-$900 to fix this. I told the tech I could buy a new 50" Samsung set for about $1,000 these days. The TV is just over 4 years old, so it is no longer under warranty. It really bothers me that I paid $4,000 for this thing and it has only lasted 4 problem-plagued years. Any suggestions before I call Samsung and see if they will replace the light engine if I pay the labor to install? I would love to know any tips/tacts you have used that is successful. I have another 50" Samsung DLP I bought last year, but also bought a 4 year extended warranty on. That one only cost $1,400 so it won't be as painful if it breaks after a few years. As much as I love the picture quality (when it works), I think I am done with Samsung and lamp-based projection technology. Looking at this thread, it is amazing how many people have had problems with these sets. Just imagine how many more have suffered in silence and not posted about their frustrations on a board like this? Samsung needs to do the right thing! These sets are lemons. |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 81
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 01:55 am: |
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Brad Peppers: I'm sorry I haven't been on here to help you out a bit more. The ferrite bead from digikey will do just fine. Have you ordered it and tried to see if it fixes the issue. If not, I can look at the schematics of the board to see if we can manually pull current from another circuit to power the fan. |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 82
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 02:15 am: |
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Pat,
Samsung TV's have evolved greatly over the last 5 years. Your HLN series television was a beauty for its time, and still has a comparable picture to some of the later model DLPs which use the latest generation DLP chips. I wouldn't bash on Samsung because they are by far the biggest manufacturer of DLP projection TV's in the world... This is why there are so many posts on this forum.. Not because Samsung creates poor quality televisions.
I'm sure when you first purchased your Samsung TV set, you were told that it will last you forever... Well, it was a "Sales Tactic".. All electronics (even those so called "reliable" LCD TVs) have problems over time... it's the nature fo the business!
Either way.. I have found that the parts are also becoming cheaper and cheaper. The other day I bought a BP96-01579A color wheel for an HLT series Samsung for a measly $79, along with the BP47-0037A ballast for $69 at Discount-Merchant.com ---- Then the lamp (which used to cost over $250) when this technology was release is now at a measily $109...
Pretty much rebuilt the whole 71" Samsung TV for $250 cost. I pay more than that in GAS in a 2 week period! Of course some labor goes along with that as well but some nice guides are available here:
http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/guides.php
for those whom are not familiar with the colorwheel, ballast, and lamp replacement procedures.
All in all, if you like to get your hands a bit dirty but have a learning experience you can rebuild your DLP tv for $250 and about 4-6 hours of work! |
New member Username: D0517
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-08
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| Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 10:39 am: |
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Ovadoggvo,
Any insight into my "grey vertical line" problem (posted above)? It is constant on the right side of the screen. I just replaced the lamp a few months ago and it first appeared aftre I tried to get HDMI connections to work on my new Sony BluRay and my older Motorola set top box (to no avail, although HDMI works fine with me older upconverting DVD and with my AppleTV).
Thanks |
New member Username: Zippychimp
Post Number: 5
Registered: Jan-07
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| Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:14 am: |
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Ovadoggvo,
Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate you taking the time. Regarding your advice to replace the color wheel, ballast, and lamp for $250... I am told I also need a new DMD board/chip and the tech recommends it is cheaper to just get a whole new light engine ($800-$900). This DLP TV is turning into a money pit! I can't justify dropping $800-$900 into this when I could buy a new dlp or plasma for $1,200.
I checked ebay and these sets have practically ZERO resale value as the final insult to injury. |
New member Username: Budd
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-08
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| Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 03:57 pm: |
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Hi,
Sorry I'm posting here because I started a new thread before...shoulda put it here!!!
Great forum here....hope I can get some help.
I have a Samsung HLP5063W... 2 years old (out of Warrenty - bought at Costco). About 1 week ago started to experience vertical lines on the screen after watching the TV for about about an hour. It does this on the Sat and DVD so it is the TV. It looks like a bunch of black lines throughout screen... almost like there is a poor connection somewhere ( I checked there is not). It goes away but comes back after a few minutes. The colour on the screen also sometimes on start-up is all red or blue...when I turn it on/off a couple times it seems fine. I called Samsung.... they had nothing to offer..."bring it to a service place".... I ended up unplugging the TV for a day and it worked fine for like 4 days after but the problem re-surfaced.
I brought it to a service place and the guy has had the TV for 3 days and says he has not seen the problem yet.... has not done any diagnostics in it.... said "I need to see the problem." I have detailed the problem to him. I might just go back to Costco and demand an exchange.
Anybody got any suggesstions on what the problems are?
Thanks |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 92
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 10:55 pm: |
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Dave Carlen,
Sorry I don't have the time to help everyone out and I do seem to miss some posts here and there. My 2 cents on your problem seems to be a collapsing light tunnel. This is common on the older DLP sets as the project the light into a mirrored light tunnel (pretty much a square tunnel made of mirrors). The heat from the lamp loosens the adhesive used to hold the mirrors in a perfect "square" format.. Sometimes in a move, or even from standard wear and tear the LEFT or RIGHT (and at times the TOP) MIRROR begins to collapse. Realligning the darn thing is a super challenge and getting to it means digging into the heart of your television. Most technicians or repair shops just tell you "get a new light engine" ... This is because they do not go into extensive light engine rebuilding as I have with these TVs.
I don't know about the end user, but I have called Discount-Merchant.com before and "requested" a used or refurbished light engine and they have had it in stock but for servicers only. I would call them at 619-710-2637 x203.. They are very helpful in finding out whether or not they have a light engine or DMD board in stock.. If not, they might be able to source it for you... I have bought a few from them at $380 and others $490 with a new lamp. Partstore would sell the same engine without the lamp for $800-$900... Which costs as much as a new TV.
I would look for used or refurbished parts in order to save money. They should last you another few years until you decide to change out your TV. |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 93
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 10:58 pm: |
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Pat,
I would recommed the same to you as i did to Dave up above. I'm sure with enough consumer requests Discount-Merchant will begin to stock light engines. I see new items on their site on a daily basis, and many are what manufacturers or Samsung themselves dont carry.. like the BP96-00674A colorwheel!!! They have 140 in stock when samsung was on nationwide backorder.. How they did it is beyond me! |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 94
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 11:09 pm: |
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Brad Hunt,
The problem you are describing is pretty commond in the HLN and HLP series DLP's. Seems to me that your DMD board is failing... The problem seems to be a cold solder on the graphic processor or where the video out feed connector seats onto the board. What happens is when your TV begins to heat up, the solder begins to loose contact... Sometimes you can disasseble the dmd board from your TV, lay the board flat on its back, and VERY CAREFULLY go over the components with the heat guns nozzle about 4 inches away from the board.. make sure you don't shake or move the board and that it is laying flat.. if not, you will move the components or the graphic processor while the solder is hot and you will ruin the board. I RECOMMEND A TECHNICIAN to do this work (called reworking the solder)..
Before you move it, give it 15-20 minutes to cool...
In many cases you will fix the situation.. in others you won't.. And in some cases you will make it worse!
Buy hey.. it's worth a try before you spend $300-400 on a new dmd board! |
New member Username: Tomg
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-08
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| Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 01:22 pm: |
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I have the same problem as Gary Baird above - multiple series of thin black vertical lines on the screen - regardless of the video source (cable box, dvd). There are about six lines in each group - with each grouping 2-3 ins apart (10 groupings in all). Any idea what the problem could be? |
Bronze Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 100
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Friday, March 07, 2008 - 01:24 am: |
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Tom,
It's most likely your DMD Board. I'd have a technician look at it. Be sure that your technician has extensive experience with DLP and LCD Projection technology... or else a problem like this could take months to fix with a lot of guess work and wasted money on un-needed parts. |
New member Username: Dland64
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-08
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| Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 11:26 am: |
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I have a Samsung 50 inch (HL-P5067W). It has worked great for almost three years. Yesterday, the picture went out (audio still works). Do not have the "three blinking lights", and at the rear of the TV, a bright light is still coming from the bulb's location, indicating to me that this is not a bulb issue.
Any thoughts on the problem, and will it be worth it to fix it? |
New member Username: Redchicken
North bend,
Oregon
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-08
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| Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 - 04:47 am: |
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i have a Samsung HL-T6176S 61" DLP TV which i bought about a week or two ago. Today i was playing Call of Duty 4 and in some of the darker shaded areas of the game there would be this blue static. i had the TV set to dynamic picture but when i changed it to movie the blue static was reduced significantly. could anyone help me with the cause of this problem and possible ways to fix it. |
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