| Author |
Thread: Samsung DLP problems - Help! |
    
New member Username: Atracker
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 12:34 am: |
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I am from the old school of diagnosing to component level but these newer sets with multi-layer boards and SMD components makes it more convenient to do a board change out as opposed to actual repair for the most part due to the labor expense.
I have recently been given a Samsung DLP HLR5067WAX/XAA set for disposal from one of the shops I do work for with an issue diagnosed as the Digital Board. I only trust my diagnosis and decided to do my own. Here are my symptoms:
Digital Air Input with PIP: Quarter size Pixels in Magenta, Blue but mostly green with a flash of intermittent full screen green.
Analog Air with PIP and Component Input with PIP: Vertical wide Bars in mostly Green, with some white and Magenta. Horizontal fuzzy-black-fine lines full screen
Menu and TV Guide overlays, PIP and VGA input display are good.
I did not test it with further inputs.
Based on what I have been reading on this forum it seems that most problems are diagnosed as the DMD board which I have to say could be a quick to judge diagnosis. As stated in the Samsung Service Manual the Analog Board is the first stage then the Digital Board and the final stage is the DMD Board. FYI, A problem in the small signal stage will only be amplified in the final stage output so be sure where the problem originates. Here are my steps to verify that diagnosis first.
From the Service Manual.
Access Factory Service Mode:
In Standby mode, press "Mute", "1", "8", "2" and "Power" to turn the screen on and enter service mode
Input screen will be whatever you have set as main input.
Check if there is an error in the DMD board:
Highlight the DDP1011, then TEST PATTERN
Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
If the above screens do not appear, this is a DMD board error.
When the DMD board has been determined to be error free based on the test patterns check the DNIe:
Input screen will be whatever you have set as main input.
Check if there is an error in the digital board before the DMD.
Highlight the DNIe, then TEST PATTERN
Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
If the above screens do not appear, IT MAY BE from a DMD board, an ATI error or there is an Analog board malfunction.
Since the DDP1011 and the DNIe passed I will be trying to access a known working Analog board to complete my diagnosis for board change out then hopefully take this to component level repair.
I hope this info will help with purchasing wrong boards for starters. |
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Bronze Member Username: Root6t6
Dallas,
TX
Post Number: 13
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 02:59 pm: |
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ovadoggvo,
What are the part numbers for the following for my Samsung HL-R6167WAX/XAA TV Please. Also if there are more than one that will work for each please enlighten me/us. I'm getting really confused based on my service manual and what I see for sale online:
1. DMD Board Assy (No EMI metal casing)
2. DMD Board Assy (With EMI metal casing)
3. Light Engine
4. Digital Board Assy (No EMI metal casing)
5. Digital Board Assy (With EMI metal casing)
I know that is alot of research so I don't expect an answer right away.
Thanks,  |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 273
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 07:42 pm: |
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D Ha,
If you have power and video for 30 seconds, it is very unlikely that your power supply is bad. The start or ARCING of the lamp from the ballast is the most power intesive part of the bootup process.
I would have to ask you what type of lamp you have in your TV. You may have bought the wrong lamp or it may be an intermittent lamp issue caused by a generic or aftermarket product.
Next, the ballast you installed VS the ballast that was originally in your TV. Is it EXACTLY the same?
Your TV may have come with a BP96-00224A or BP96-00224B lamp... This means the original lamp may have been an OSRAM or TOSHIBA lamp, which in turn means that your ballast is a 100W 1.3 ballast and must be replaced with the same exact ballast.
Let us know. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 274
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 07:53 pm: |
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Andrew,
From your long extensive post, I think that the problem may be in the connection cable connecting the Digital board to the DMD board. It uses a DVI type connection cable that may be bad.
Another possibility guys. A few months ago I had a situation that the cable was bad and other service centers had changed DMD, Digital, and Analog boards and still the same issue.
I think Discount-Merchant.com even sells the "Cable Set" for these things... What a great resource.
Either way, do you due diligence to see if that cable is faulty. You can try playing with it while it's on to see if it changes the output to the screen. I believe the PIP and VGA may go through a different set of wires throughout that connection cable.
It's worth a shot. |
New member Username: Twh34d
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Thursday, March 05, 2009 - 04:24 pm: |
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Ovadoggvo,
You seem to be the person to ask about these issues. I have a Samsung HLR5067W DLP and I'm having color issues. Everything functions as it should I just lost a few colors. I don't have Red and Green, but Blue and a couple others show up. It something is red it just shows as a shade of gray. I'm pretty handy with small electronics but I'm not sure which component to get to solve my problem. Thanks for your help. |
New member Username: Ylhandlz
Cincinnati,
OH
USA
Post Number: 3
Registered: Aug-08
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| Posted on Thursday, March 05, 2009 - 04:30 pm: |
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Thanks, ovadoggvo. The original lamp is the BP96-00224A and I replaced the bulb only in Nov. '07. The TV worked fine up until Aug. '08 when I accidentally sequenced the power up/down rapidly (itchy trigger finger). That was quite a while ago, so I don't recall the exact details regarding if there were any other symptoms besides the image only staying on for 10 seconds (not 30 seconds as I previously reported) and the timer/lamp/temp lights flashing.
The ballast that I replaced (AA47-00008A) visually appears the same as the original and it's the only one that I've seen with the correct connector to interface with the Toshiba lamp housing. I'm having the same symptoms with the new ballast as the old one, so at least it's not getting any worse.
What can I do to troubleshoot the power supply? Could there be a temperature sensor problem that's triggering my issue? |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 22
Registered: Sep-08
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| Posted on Friday, March 06, 2009 - 06:25 pm: |
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ovadoggvo:
I just got the complete light engine assembly from direct merchant today, installed it in my tv, and it still doesnt work. push power button, lamp light flashes once, then temp light, then lamp light continously flashes. the bulb is lit, but i got nothin. i tried the system reset thing. mute 1, 8, 2, power. that didnt change anything.
I guess now i wait for the digital pcb board to come and hope that makes it work. and if that doesnt fix it i quit. parting it out and throwing in the towel. buying another new tv and throwing this garbage away. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 275
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 01:41 am: |
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Tom Holleran,
The problem you are describing may be the color wheel. I recommend looking at guides.fixyourdlp.com's colorwheel replacement guide at least opening the set to see if the colorwheel is in tact.
A few questions, does it happen on all inputs? HDMI? VGA? Video? Component?
BTW.. Color wheel for you model is most likely BP96-00674A
Let us know. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 276
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 01:50 am: |
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D Ha,
Intermittent power supplies are hard to diagnose. You would have to check voltage going into your ballast to be between 320V to 380V.
You may want to take a look at the capacitors on the power supply board to see if there is any overexpansion.
It would be very rare for your power supply to be bad, specially if it has enough umph to power on the lamp and ballast in order for you to get power for 10 seconds. Have you taken out your color wheel to see if it's spining properly? The TV may be signaling for a shut down due to a bad color wheel. Your lamp may be at fualt as well as the Toshiba lamps do tend to fail more often than the Philips units. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 277
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 01:56 am: |
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Wholey moley mike. I'm speachless. Digital Board may be the problem but I hate to see you dump money into it. I would ask D-M if you can return it with a restockign fee if it doesn't solve the solution.
Let us know how it goes. We're all praying for you. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 278
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 01:58 am: |
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Andrew,
I thought about it a bit more.. If the DVI cable doesn't fix it, it's probably the digital board. I think i've come across that same issue and the Digital Board fixed it. I need to start documenting this stuff at work! |
New member Username: Sgoconnor
Post Number: 6
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 08:43 am: |
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Hello Ovadoogvo, any idea regarding Brad Vickers and my unit? Any help would be great. |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 23
Registered: Sep-08
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| Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 09:47 am: |
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I ordered the digital pcb board 12 hours after i ordered the light engine assembly. I just checked the status of the order for the digital pcb board and it is still "processing" it hasnt even shipped! AHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! |
New member Username: Rooky
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 10:53 am: |
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Hi, I have a 50" dlp Samsung tv HLN507W. A year ago it started to turn on and off by itself. At first I thought it was something loose so I opened the tv and started unpluging and pluging everything I could see. Then I read it could be a blue switch which it was the cause of that problem. Now the tv does not turn on and off anymore but none of the input works, I can't use the side bottoms to turn the tv on or off, I can only use the remote but if I press the bottons for a while, I can see the menus clearly, I also know that the lamp is good because I see it turns on and the fans work. I called a technician and he told me it was the digital board part # BP41-00041A but samsung no longer carries this part so they sold me a substitute part # BP94-02145A. I replaced it and did a factory reset, I think, I've got the service menu, went to options and press on user reset and then on EER reset, the TV turned off by itself on both times but it not solve the problem, I still have no inputs and I can't use the side bottons. Can someone give me and idea? Thanks Rooky |
New member Username: Deanp
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 12:31 pm: |
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Ovadoggvo, Mike B, I'am watching your progress? one thing I couldn't help but notice, if the the light engine you recieved is in fact the one that was photographed on the link provided by ovadoggvo on feb 22, after scrolling through the pictures of that particular light engine it appeared to me when you get to the straight on shot of the DMD board it looks like it is missing a very important part, possibly the DMD chip itself? just an observation. |
New member Username: Boblasek
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Sunday, March 08, 2009 - 06:07 pm: |
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Hi ovadoggvo been reading up on here but cant find the solution to my specific problem. I have a Samsung 46" HLR4667WAX DLP TV. My brother was playing Video games when he left my tv on and came back about 30 mins to find the screen was black.
It still looks back lit just no picture, no sound and I cannot change the input ie: HDMI or Component 1 etc. The lamp fires fine and i have not heard any screeching leading me to believe that the color wheel went bad. I cleaned out the internals of all the dust and still nothing. I am thinking one of the boars went bad? What do you reccomend and what are the part #s Thanks in advance |
New member Username: Falltillfly
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Sunday, March 08, 2009 - 06:13 pm: |
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Ovadoggvo, you seem to be the person to ask! I've read through these postings, but I don't see anyone with my problem, so here goes. Our 46: DLP started making the loud buzzing noise suddenly, and the picture turned purple. From reading online we figured it was a bad color wheel. I opened it up and sure enough, the color wheel was shattered. So I've replaced it.
When I first put everything back together, it did not work. It would start to turn on, making some clicking noise, but the lamp would not light. As far as I could tell only one fan would come on, that's it. It would click a few more times, before turning off and blinking the 3 lights on the power button.
I took everything apart again and found I'd re-inserted the orange strip from the color wheel backwards. After correcting that, the tv will turn on, picture and everything, but only for about 10 seconds before turning itself off and blinking the red standby and green lamp lights on the power button.
Do you have any idea what the problem might be? I am guessing it's the ballast, but if you have any other ideas, or could confirm my guess, I would really appreciate it! Thank you! |
New member Username: Suparoku
Louisville,
KY
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Monday, March 09, 2009 - 12:14 am: |
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MSV,
I'm waiting to hear your results before I try the DMD board. Let us know what happens and thanks for the suggestion.
Ovadoggvo,
thanks for your input as well.
I'll post my results hopefully soon...
Bill K. Spurlock |
New member Username: Debbie_bowling
La Crescenta,
California
U.S.A.
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Monday, March 09, 2009 - 12:52 am: |
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“Does anyone know if KDF-42WE655TV was recalled by Sony? Our lamp went out & melted the casing & lamp door. One of the repair centers I called said Sony would replace the TV, but Sony is saying they will give me a small discount on a new TV. I paid $2,400 for this TV 4 years ago and now I can't afford to pay $1,200 to replace it. I'm hoping someone had better luck with Sony. |
New member Username: Cuttlefish
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Monday, March 09, 2009 - 09:07 pm: |
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I have a HLR5667WAX/XAA, and having a green pixelation problem. The VGA input is good, no problem. But the tuner inputs are bad - the analog channels are really bad and the HD channels are still watchable with minor green squres pixelation. I already swapped the analog board and still the same problem. I believe my DMD board is ok. Does anyone know the part number for the PCB digital board? The board that has the tuner on it.
The part number on the digital board is BP41-00237B but partsStore listed it as a Main board (instead of digital board) and I am not sure if the one from partsStore comes with the tuner on it or just the board. They do not display any photos or pictures. Discount merchant carries a BP41-00237A (instead of a B) for HLR5067 but out of stock. Can I used that? Or do I have to buy the BP94-02084A as listed on Samsung site? I am confused. Any help is greatly appreciated.
} |
Bronze Member Username: Root6t6
Dallas,
TX
Post Number: 14
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 11:08 am: |
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Cuttlefish,
I am not sure what the 237B is on partstore as 76 dollars seems way low for the digital board on that site. The BP41-00237A is just the digital board assembly without the EMI metal shield on it. You can use your old shield, it is easy to swap. The BP94-002084 is the board AND the shield together as an assembly. You really don't need to buy another shield.
I bought the 237A from DM for my HLR6167WAX/XAA and it fixed it up beautifully and I had similar problems to you. Hope this helps. |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 24
Registered: Sep-08
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| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 11:34 am: |
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D-M does not accept returns unless the part is defective unless you are a repair center.
So ... does anyone need a complete light engine assembly for a good price??!?!?!?http://www.discount-merchant.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1077660-SAMSUNG
make me an offer if anyone wants it! |
New member Username: Msv
Post Number: 4
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 09:48 pm: |
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Bill K Spurlock,
Yes, the Beast is lives again!!!!!!!
The DMD board is a pretty strait forward install. Just take your time, be patient.
One thing, I had to go in once and adjust the board up to get it to project on the screen correctly.
Also here a link to an exploded view & parts list for a HLM4365WX/XAA which is very similar to the HLN.
http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/HLM617W.pdf
Let me know if you need more information.
Good Luck
Ovadoggvo,
I did not do a factory reset, (it seams to be working ok), should I still do it?
Thanks
Everyone,
Here is a link to an exploded view & parts list for a HLR4266WX/XAA.
http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/HLR4266W.pdf |
New member Username: Cuttlefish
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 01:36 am: |
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Travis, thank you for your help. good to know that the BP41-00237A digital board fixed yr problem. I dug thro DM site and found nothing listed as digital board for my HLR5667WAX/XAA, but found BP41-00237A for the HLR5067 and HLR6167. First, not sure if this BP41-00237A will work for my HLR5667WAX/XAA, secondly, it is also out of stock. Hence I was very tempted to try the BP41-00237B from partStore but they do not have photos of the board like DM site - I indeed found the numbers BP41-00237B on my own board after opening up the shielding. Advise or comments? |
Bronze Member Username: Root6t6
Dallas,
TX
Post Number: 15
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 12:23 pm: |
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Cuttlefish,
My service manual also covers the HLR5667WAX/XAA and lists BP94-02084A as the Digital Board assy including the shield. It lists the BP97-01013A as just the Digital board inside the shield. These are the exact numbers listed for my HLR6167WAX/XAA as well. don't know why the 237A is not listed as the just the board in the service manual but it worked just fine in my set and it is listed as compatible with my tv on DM.com I think these will work for any L64C chassis HLRXXXXWAX/XAA model. If your board has BP41-00237B on it and probably "HURICANE" too right? Then the 237B from partstore should be the right board. They have a return policy so if it's not the right board I think you can return it. I would be that the "B" is just the next revision of the 237 board as there is a blue wire and a component added on later on both my original and replacement 237A boards. Maybe the just incorporated that change into the design.
Hope this helps. |
New member Username: Robertt4x4
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 03:49 pm: |
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I have a Samsung HLM617 that has diagonal dark lines running through it. They are spaced about 1" to 2" apart and cover the whole screen. I have not hooked it up using the DVI yet but all other types of connections have the same results. I was wondering if it could be the DMD board. I could use any help.  |
New member Username: Kc2cag
Centennial,
CO
Post Number: 6
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:18 pm: |
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My long awaited color wheel arrived today from the PartStore for my HLR4266W. Reassembly was a cinch, and when I plugged it in at my basement service area (with a little bowtie UHF antenna) I got a great picture! Hooray!
I moved the TV back up into the family room, connected the satellite receiver, antenna, and DVD player. Plugged it in and turned it on. Crappola! A series of black and white vertical lines appeared!!!
In desperation I tried the basic solution: unplug and let the sucker reboot. Voila! It's been working fine for a half hour now.
We shall see what happens next. To be continued, maybe...
Tom K |
New member Username: Porterww
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 03:42 pm: |
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I own a Samsung HLN-467WX/XAA and
I changed the original bulb after it imploded after 17,000hrs. Before I changed it I was getting lines in the picture when using the RCA inputs. After I changed the bulb the lines were still there. I changed everthing to the componet inputs and the lines went away. All was well for a couple of months.
Now for some reson when I turn the TV on it will run for a couple of minutes and then go black. The bulb is still on but the picture just goes out. The tv will not respond to the remote or the power button on the tv. In order to get it to turn off I have to pull the plug. I go threw this four or five times before the tv will stay on. It also shows no error lights when this occurs. Once the tv starts it will stay running for days if you don't turn the power off.
I am wondering if this would have anything to do with the color whell or not. It still has the original color wheel and it is making some noise but not as loud as other have decribed it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 279
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 09:08 pm: |
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Guys,
I was out of town for the last week and I haven't been able to help. I see there are LOTS of new posts here and in the other forums that i'm helping out.
I'm having some trouble attaching images in this forum so I have started to post at the below forum as well:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46&p=90#p90
For some reason, I can easily attach photos and can get to peoples problems a bit more efficiently on there. But I will be helping out here as well.
Just give me a night or two to settle in and I'll be helping as many people as I can. You are welcome to re-post your problems at the fixyourdlp.com forum as well if I have missed your problem on this forum.
Sean O'Conner,
Can you please post your problem again here or on fixyourdlp forums so I can see the whole thing clearly. I don't see the post you are referring to.
suparoku,
What happened, did you get that DMD board in there to see if your problem resolves like MSV's did? Let us know. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 280
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 12:24 am: |
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Deborah Bowling,
The Sony LCD projections tend to have problem with the overheating of the lamp ESPECIALLY when you replace the original with a generic! They automatically void your warranty when you replace the original lamp with an aftermarket product such as OSRAM or DNGO. Philips is the original lamp manufacturer and they will not give you anything unless you stress to them that your replacement lamp and original lamp were both philips. I believe there is a classaction lawsuit against Sony for those TV's. If it does not work, look into buying and replacing this part:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 077824-sony.htm
The optical block for the Sony TV you have with includes the 3lcd engine which tends to get damaged due to the heat and create discoloration on the screen!
I hope this helps!
Although I focus on this samsung DLP forum, I have extensive experience with the Sony projection TVs as well as Zenith, Toshiba, and other brands. Plasma TV's and LCD's are also my forte so I try to help wherever I can.
Let us know how it goes! |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 281
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 12:28 am: |
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Virna Molina,
I beleive the technician directed you the wrong way. My guess would have been the Analog board or DMD board. I would start with the Analog board from Discount-Merchant if they carry it. I normally recommend the light engine if they have it in stock rather than the bare dmd board as for $80 more, you get the complete optical block that goes with it. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 282
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 12:31 am: |
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Cuttlefish,
The part you need is right here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 069245-samsung.htm
DIRT CHEAP.. Literally. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 283
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 12:33 am: |
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Travis R.,
I'm glad your problem could be solved. I told you guys that this Discount-Merchant place is a life saver! Shines a whole new light on these TV's that before were pronounced dead at the scene. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 284
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 12:37 am: |
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Cuttlefish,
Sorry.. that's for the analog board. I've been gone so long I didn't even read the rest of the posts before I responded. Keep an eye on the D-M site. They seem to get a whole crap load of new parts every once in a while. |
New member Username: Sgoconnor
Post Number: 7
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 08:30 am: |
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Hello,
I'm having an issue with a Samsung HLR5067w 50" DLP. When I turn it on I don't get the startup chime anymore and the LAMP LED flashes for about 1 minute with no picture. The LAMP light stops flashing after about two minutes and then the red "Stand By/Temp" LED stays solid (as if the unit was shut off). Again no chime if I try to shut it off. I don't think its the bulb because I can see the backlight off the screen and the light from behind the unit. None of the remote controls respond, such as menu, source, etc. nothing comes on the screen. when I press them on the remote the TIMER LED lights for a second and goes away. If I unplug the power cord and leave it off for a few days the unit works again for about a week or so.
Any ideas? |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 25
Registered: Sep-08
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 09:44 am: |
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sean oconnor:
This sounds like the same problem i am having, i have the exact same set as you. I already replaced the dmd board with no luck, i am now waiting for the digital pcb board from discount merchant. i ordered the board over 2 weeks ago and it still hasnt shipped. |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 26
Registered: Sep-08
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 09:48 am: |
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If anyone needs a complete light engine assembly, PLEASE take it off my hands! i just got it from direct merchant last friday and it did not solve my problem. I paid $260 for it, I will sell it for $200. part number BP97-00207A |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 285
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 09:48 pm: |
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Sean OConnor,
When you say your remote does not respond, do you mean it doesn't respond when the TV is on? Do you see the TV backlight on or does it shut off after the lamps stop flashing?
Digital board can be the problem in this case.
Guys, If I get to your posts late, its because i'm answering peoples questions here as well:
http://fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46
I recommend posting there if you do not get a response from me here. For some reason I can not upload/attach pictures here so it makes it a bit difficult for me.
Mike,
2 weeks!?! I would call them... It's unlikely. I get my boards in 3-4 days max. It takes them up to 2 days to ship the parts, but the lamps go out the SAME HOUR almost. Their service is usually impressive. Something is definately wrong. |
New member Username: Sgoconnor
Post Number: 8
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 11:29 am: |
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The TV backlight stays on for about two minutes after the LAMP LED stops flashing then it powers off and the STAND BY/TEMP LED lights red (auto shutoff I'm guessing). By the remote not responding I mean that other then the TIMER LED flashing nothing else responds when I press a button on the unit. For example, if after turning the TV on I press the Power button the remote it won't shut off. I don't get any audio or any on-screen visuals (such as menus).
Thanks for the responce!!! |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 27
Registered: Sep-08
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| Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 09:24 am: |
|
ovadoggvo:
I talked to them last week and they assured me the part would ship by the end of last week.... well guess what, I checked the status of my order again and it still hasnt shipped. I asked the guy last week if they physically had the part in stock and after putting me on hold he told me he went back to the shipping dept to make sure it was there. He told me some poor excuse of parts being moved around and thats why it was taking longer. I am not a happy customer at this point to say the least. |
New member Username: Rooky
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, March 17, 2009 - 09:44 pm: |
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ovadoggvo:
Thanks for your response. I'll order the parts and I let you know if it works.
Thanks again.
Virna |
New member Username: Daron_u
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 12:37 am: |
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I have a hl-R5678W that is 2.5 years old. This week my son turned it on and it display vertical alternating green/dark bars across the bottom. The bars were about 1/4" and crept toward the top. As they did, the colors shifted from blue to light blue to red to very washed out. This goes on for about a miniute or so until it reaches the top. the whole time as well in the area covered by the alternating verticle bars pattern, there is strobing. This occurs on all inputs as well as the absence of input. I tried every day to see if it was consistent and it has been until this evening when I went to show my father-in-law. It started the same pattern, but then the picture just became clear but large block pixelation.
Any thoughts. I might add that throughout the lines pattern, the video has always been sharp behind it even though washed out by the strobing. No freezes at all and the audio is fine. Hope someone can help. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 286
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 07:08 pm: |
|
Daron,
Most likely your DMD board is starting to fail. I would check at D-M first and if they don't have it, you may just have to wait and pray they get one. Otherwise Samsung sells the part for $700! D-M would sell it between $180-$200, which would make the repair worth while.
I don't remember if I assisted you in the FixYourDLP forum or not but there it is again.
I'm also answering questions here:
http://fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46&p=209#p209
Just in case I don't get to your questions there, you can post here ... or vice versa. I am trying to help as many people as I can. I still can not get the darn files to upload. I'm trying to upload a picture of a ballast and where to test for voltage.
Also, I would like to upload an image that shows how to "trick" the ballast to stay on without the need of the DMD board. This is a good way to test for to see if the ballast / power supply are working. It will also tell you if the color wheel or dmd could be faulty when there is "signal on" being sent to the ballast.
For this reason I have started to post on the FixYourDlp.com/forum/ site. |
New member Username: Daron_u
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 09:12 pm: |
|
Ovadoggvo,
Thanks for the quick response. I did not post on fixyourdlp.com as I did not know about it. Would you rather I post there.
In any case, I now have a new sympton. When I got home today, I turned it on and left it to do the same verticle line creeping with the strobing. However, this time after a couple of minutes a new effect. The Picture just suddenly switched from the verticle lines to horizontal lines seperated with verticle green lines about 3-4 inches apart. These horizontal liness repeat top to botton with about an 3/4 inch overlap.
Now interesting, as I was typing this, the lines disappeared altogether and the big blocky pixelation effect is back.
Does all this still support your DMD suggestion?
Thanks for all the help. |
New member Username: Daron_u
Post Number: 3
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:40 am: |
|
And then...
See previous post. I turned the TV off, waited a few secocnds/minute or so and turned it back on. It can on with no problems. I continued to watch it for a couple of hours before going to bed. Turned it on this morning and still no problem. It is frustrating not to know what is wrong but at least it is working again magically.
FYI...I found a DMD on ebay for $355. I bid $200 and am waiting to hear. But the going price is 1018.00 for the part, more than half what I paid for the TV. Nothing on M-D for this part yet. |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 28
Registered: Sep-08
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| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 02:21 pm: |
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update: after 3 WEEKS of placing my order, DM finally told me they didnt have the board in stock. i talked to a manager and asked him why the salesman told me last week that he physically went back to the shipping department to make sure they had the board for me, and he went so far as to tell me that he assured me my part would ship by the end of last week. The supervisor apoligized for my troubles and is "personally" going to try and find the part to fill my order. WTF |
New member Username: Dcsforum
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-07
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| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 08:59 pm: |
|
OV,
The photos posted by Andrew and Drew Simmons are identical to my problem. My high-def digital channels are perfect (just like the menus in the photos). My green interference only occurs on the "analog" channels like cable channels 2-70. That's why I've thought maybe the DMD isn't the problem. I've been wondering if the analog board might be the culprit, but I'm really a guesser on this and nothing approaching an expert.
DCS |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 287
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:19 pm: |
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mike b.,
OUCH. Unfortunate... I'm sure they are overwhelmed with the orders on these DLP boards. I have not had any troubles with them like this one. I would just sit tight and wait for another one to come along I guess. Send them an email and make sure they put you on the top of the donor list! What's the model of your TV? If I find one on there I will let you know. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 288
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:21 pm: |
|
Guys,
If you want to FORCE ON your ballast in order to test your ballast or your DMD board / Colorwheel signal to your ballast you may do so by following the instructions and photos i posted here:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&p=275#p275 |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 289
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:29 pm: |
|
DCS,
With this new information I would change my diagnosis to the Analog board if your TV is equiped with an analog tuner. What's the model of your TV? Sometimes your Tuner will by on the digital board if it is a digital tuner.
Basically, it may be the tuner that is failing, but in this case you would have to replace the board that carries the tuner. |
New member Username: Hutchsc
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 10:16 pm: |
|
I have a Samsung HL-R5067W that has been acting strangly. The TV will play normally for anywhere from 5 minutes to 3 hours and the picture will suddenly be gone, however, the sound is still working and the screen is back lit. No picture. I called samsung and they suggested replacing the buld. I replaced the bulb, no change, then the ballast was suggested and I replaced the ballast, only change was that it would last a little bit longer in HD mode before going blank. The other symptom that I have noticed is that the screen will go blank quicker when watching in full screen. To get the picture back all I have to do is turn the TV off for about 30 seconds and it will work again. Anyone have any ideas? |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 29
Registered: Sep-08
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| Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 10:42 am: |
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ovadaggvo: my set is the hlr-5067w
thanks |
New member Username: San_antonio
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 11:20 am: |
|
Ovadoggvo, I have a 46" HL-P4663W Samsung. I have read thru all the
traffic and my color and screen seem to be fine, but the Fan-like
clicking and buzzing is getting worse, yet no warning LED lights or
picture/screen changes. You had already replied to one with "Only
thing left is Colorwheel then.. Buzzing can be caused by a bad
ballast, colorwheel, or cooling fan... Nothing else makes a noise,
unless it's comming from you speaker."
If my picture is fine, is my problem a simple matter of some debris in
the fan? or can the color wheel and/or ballast be causing the noise
even though the screen and color seem fine. |
New member Username: Coachmike
Jacksonville,
Florida
United States
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 01:43 am: |
|
Long story - I have a HL-P4663WX/XAA .I replaced the lamp for the first time last month since we purchased it new.The tv started getting the three blinking lights and the tv shut off after being on for a few minutes.Bought lamp #BP96-00826A from Discount Merchant.Installed it and reset lamp timer.It worked great for three weeks with no problem !! Then it started shutting itself off again with all three lights blinking. I called Discount Merchant and they swore it could not be the lamp that only three in ten thousand lamps fail "but you should keep a spare one on hand just in case" . They said it was possibly the ballast not firing the lamp properly. So I ordered a ballst # BP96-00690A from them. Recieved it and still the same symptoms. I called DM back and they said now maybe it might be the lamp so they sent me a replacement lamp. After eight days I finally recieve another lamp that has a different part number on it , some AM0000476 number ??? I installed it, reset lamp timer and still have the same symptoms. The tv will power up, ballst clicks to activate tv , lamp fires and tv works but after a few minutes maybe longer it will power down and the lights start blinking??? Ovadoggvo can you please help??? Should I now order a new color wheel.?? Ive inspected mine and it appears okay , sticker is in place on the silver bearing and the wheel has no visible cracks or breaks but I read where you say the sensor on the housing could be at fault?? Discount Merchant does not carry my color wheel # BP96-00674A for the L3 chasis so I must go to parts store. HELP HELP !!!! |
New member Username: Holodeck
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 01:06 pm: |
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I have a Samsung HL-R5688W DLP my issue is with vertical line on the screeen but only on the right side side. I have read through allot of forums and have even purchased the service maunal for the set. The diagnois would seem to be the DMD board. Part number BP96-01106A. Samsung Parts wants $1041.00 for this Part and D M does not seem to have it.By the pic attached does this seem to be correct ?Has any one every come up with any other options.Putting over $1000.00 into this TV is not worth it in my opinion. |
Bronze Member Username: Tphanich
San Diego,
CA
US
Post Number: 16
Registered: Dec-07
|
| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 08:41 pm: |
|
Michael Esposito,
Looks like it might be a DMD board to me; either the chip itself or the software on the board. The $1041 is definitely too much, but that's probably for the entire engine, not just the board. I think you can buy the board for a few hundred bucks, but you just have to know where to look. You mentioned DM, and I have had better luck with them in the past when I just called to find out if they had the part. have you tried that? I saw that they had a bunch of DMD boards for sale. |
New member Username: Porterww
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
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| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 09:29 pm: |
|
I posted this a few weeks ago and really need the help. I am afraid that eventually I am going to blow the bulb by unplugging it.
I own a Samsung HLN-467WX/XAA and
I changed the original bulb after it imploded after 17,000hrs. Before I changed it I was getting lines in the picture when using the RCA inputs. After I changed the bulb the lines were still there. I changed everthing to the componet inputs and the lines went away. All was well for a couple of months.
Now for some reson when I turn the TV on it will run for a couple of minutes and then go black. The bulb is still on but the picture just goes out. The tv will not respond to the remote or the power button on the tv. In order to get it to turn off I have to pull the plug. I go thru this four or five times before the tv will stay on. It also shows no error lights when this occurs. Once the tv starts it will stay running for days if you don't turn the power off.
I am wondering if this would have anything to do with the color wheel or not. It still has the original color wheel and it is making some noise but not as loud as other have decribed it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Bill |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 290
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 02:12 am: |
|
Tony Halstead,
I would recommend replacing the color wheel. Guys, the color wheel is much more likely to start to fail than the cooling fans within the set. The reason for this is because the colorwheel spins at around 5000 RPMs with a light that's brighter than the sun pointing right at it!
The ballast will make a clicking noise if it's bad, but only at the startup of your TV. It will never start to buzz when the TV is on and running. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 291
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 02:25 am: |
|
Mike DeLapp,
It seems to me that the problem may be one of 3 problems...
1. Fan #2 (fan closest to the lamp) or the temperature sensor.
2. The Temperature sensor is more likely to fail intermittently than the lamp itself.
3. Pretty much, the tv is detecting that something is wrong... It may be a color wheel issue (timing marks may be falling off, or the wheel may not be able to spin at the required RPM). BTW.. The BP96-00674A is the HIGHEST FAILING color wheel ever made! I think D-M was taking you down the right direction... Look at the following post to test the voltage to your ballast and diagnose your power supply:
http://fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46
Any other information can help us diagnose further. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 292
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 02:31 am: |
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Michael Esposito,
Go to your service menu by pressing Mute, 1, 8, 2, power on your remote to turn on the TV. There should be an option to test your DMD board there even though it's not always correct.
See what that tells you. Let us know how it goes. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 293
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 02:35 am: |
|
Bill Porter,
Unfortunately, your problem is not the color wheel. If the color wheel was bad, the Tv would shut it's power down.
The black screen but still on issue is normally caused by a defective DMD board.
I would search D-M for one... |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 30
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 11:04 am: |
|
UPDATE: the manager from DM called me yesterday to tell me he found a digital pcb board for me and he is overnighting it for free to let me try it and see if it fixes my problem! and he is letting me send the light engine back since that didnt solve my problem and because of all the B.S. I had to go through with my order.
I will post results once i install digital pcb board! |
New member Username: Porterww
Post Number: 3
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 02:04 pm: |
|
Ovadoggvo
Thanks for the info but now I have a different problem, trying to find part numbers. I went to samsungs site to try and find part numbers for my HLN-467WX/XAA and the closest model number was HLN-467WX is this the same thing? Or do you have a suggested web site to find the part numbers for the DMD board. It seems odd that my model number does not exsist on samsungs site.
Again thanks for the help
Bill |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 31
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 04:26 pm: |
|
so i got the new digital pcb board from DM today, popped it in an WAM... TV fired right up and was working! ......then about 5 minutes later it broke. UNREAL.
originally the TV wouldnt even turn on, i had no picture whatsoever.now i have an entirely new problem. first i had all these thin horizontal lines across the screen, now The tv now has all this fuked up green block pixalation, you can hear the audio but barely see the video. could this still be related to the digital pcb board? what else is left? i already swapped out the DMD board, and the color wheel with the light engine assembly swap.
 |
New member Username: Av8er
San Antonio,
TX
U.S.A
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 03:40 pm: |
|
Help,
I have a HLN507WX/XAA made in Nov.2003 I have changed the bulb, ballast, and colorwheel. The colorwheel is not spinning, I FORCE ON the ballast to test ballast and lamp, they work. How do I test DMD board colorwheel signal, I saw that there was a 3 pin plug not used next to the 4 pin plug of the colorwheel. Does anyone know what the 3 pin plug is for, the 4 pin plug only has 3 wires in it. Could the 3 pin plug be used for the colorwheel are is it something all together different.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks, |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 32
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 07:17 pm: |
|
Ovadoggvo: is there anything in my set that could cause this digital pcb board to go out? the fact that it worked for five minutes and then crapped out is just strange.
one thing i did notice is that on the new board i received that has a part number ending in the letter "A" they have a resistor that is draped over the circuit board that has been soldered on. its suppose to be a 4.7K ohm resistor, however...when i measure it with my FLUKE meter, i do not get any measurement. and i have tried 2 different flukes with 2 different sets of leads, I know my meters are good.
my original board ending in the letter "B" does not have this resistor soldered on.
Should i be concerned that DM may blame something else in my set for blowing this board? do you think i should tell them that when i first put the board in that it worked for a few minutes and then stopped?
I put my original board back in, and i am back at my original problem, lamp lights up, no picture, no menu screens, and then after a few minutes lamp shuts off.
install "NEW" board, and i get menu screens, and a whole mess of green on the screen with a barely visible picture in the background. its hard to tell in my pictures, but the picture is shifted up and to the right, even if i try and go in the setup with mute,1,8,2 and change the vertical and horizontal settings i cant get it to where it should be.
PLEASE ADVISE!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol
It seems that i am on the right path with the digital pcb board being the problem but for some reason this TV just doesnt want to come back to life for me.
could there also be a problem with the analog board causing this problem with the digital board? |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 294
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 11:57 pm: |
|
mike b.,
We need to jolt this sucker to life. I would recommend trying the Digital Board that D-M sent you with your original DMD board to see if that works. I would also enter the system menu by pressing mute, 1, 8, 2, power and then doing a factory reset. Whenever you install new parts it is recommended that you hard power reset, followed by a software reset. Inside the system menu, you can test your DMD board for functionality. Even though this is a useless test, it sometimes works.
Let us know what happens.
So did you get a free digital board from D-M? I don't understand? or did they ship it overnight for free?
That's weird... I have bought a million items from them and i've never got anything free but the shipping. They do ship to servicers for free so that's a great thing!
Let us know how it goes... I'm sure you are frustrated with the damn thing but like you said, we are making progress. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 295
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 11:59 pm: |
|
Bill Porter,
The model ending with the W is enough. The X and XAA, XUA, XES, etc.. are for different continents and different manufacturing dates.
The parts for the 467W model is what you need. |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 296
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 12:08 am: |
|
David A. Brown,
If you can force on your lamp, this means that your power supply is working, your ballast is working, and your lamp is working... As for your colorwheel, did you insert the cable the right way? I have had many people put the cable in backwords... The flex cable is easy to put in the wrong way. Try flipping the cable.
I have a feeling that your color wheel is not sending the proper information to your DMD.
As for the connectors, there are 2 cables comming off of the color wheel and it's housing. One is for the sensor, and the other is for the color wheel itself.. it should not be unplugged?!?! Check the guide on here:
http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp96-01579a.php
Make sure you have everything plugged in properly! I don't recall any connectors being disconnected. |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 33
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 10:40 am: |
|
I already have tried the new digital board with my original DMD board and get the same results.
I have already done the test for the DMD board inside the system menu and everything tested ok. this is the procedure i used as per ANDREWS post
From the Service Manual.
Access Factory Service Mode:
"In Standby mode, press "Mute", "1", "8", "2" and "Power" to turn the screen on and enter service mode
Input screen will be whatever you have set as main input.
Check if there is an error in the DMD board:
Highlight the DDP1011, then TEST PATTERN
Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
If the above screens do not appear, this is a DMD board error.
When the DMD board has been determined to be error free based on the test patterns check the DNIe:
Input screen will be whatever you have set as main input.
Check if there is an error in the digital board before the DMD.
Highlight the DNIe, then TEST PATTERN
Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
If the above screens do not appear, IT MAY BE from a DMD board, an ATI error or there is an Analog board malfunction.
Since the DDP1011 and the DNIe passed I will be trying to access a known working Analog board to complete my diagnosis for board change out then hopefully take this to component level repair. "
I will try the factory reset and see if that changes anything.
Isn't is weird that when i first turned it on everything worked FINE and then after a few minutes of watching a DVD on my AV2 input everything went to crap? The picture was ok when i first turned it on, and then after a few minutes all the green blocks happened.
DM overnighted me the digital board for free, and are not charging my credit card unless i decide to keep the part. otherwise the manager has already issued me a RA# to return the light engine assembly and the digital board. |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 34
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 11:04 am: |
|
i hit mute, 1, 8, 2, power
then went to OPTION
then hit USER RESET
set turned off
I turned set back on and there were no changes
AM i doing the correct system reset? |
Bronze Member Username: Ds5775
Post Number: 14
Registered: Feb-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 11:15 am: |
|
I just tried doing that also and it went through all the colors and patterns with both DDP1011 and the DNIe so I guess it passed, Ovadoggvo just got back into town will get cpu cord for monitor and check laptop as you had asked me to do. Question is there anyway to check the analog board in that service menu? Sending a pic again of what my HLR5067W DLP tv does |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 35
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 11:28 am: |
|
What is the difference between a hard system reset and a soft system reset?
It seems like the problem is in the digital board. When i first hooked it up it worked fine, then 5 minutes later it breaks.
This is what I got today...
 |
Bronze Member Username: Ds5775
Post Number: 15
Registered: Feb-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 11:45 am: |
|
Mike looks like we have about the same problem do you know if you can check the analog board in that service menu. and also where is the hard and soft system reset in the service menu I didn't see that anywhere |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 36
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 11:54 am: |
|
I have no idea if you can check the analog board in the service menu. I was thinking about trying the hdmi input on the digital board and see if anything changes, but i doubt that will change anything in my situation considering the entire picture is pushed up and to the right. |
Bronze Member Username: Ds5775
Post Number: 16
Registered: Feb-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 12:03 pm: |
|
Thanks I just noticed that your pic and mine are about the same with the green lines. I unplug it and it will work fine for 1- 24 hours no rhyme or reason to when it cuts back to green lines. Ovadoggvo had me check all the inputs and no change just have to check the laptop monitor and see if it stays the same then i hope its only analog board |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 37
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 12:34 pm: |
|
my situation is really aggravating. I just got a new (refurbished) digital board and the tv worked fine for about 5 mintues after i installed it. and now i have this new problem with the green |
New member Username: Av8er
San Antonio,
TX
U.S.A
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 02:03 pm: |
|
Thanks ovadoggvo,
I have checked the plugs from the colorwheel, they are plugged in right. What I would like to know is what is the 3 pin socket for on the DMD board. The colorwheel has a ribbon cable and a cable with a 4 pin plug on it, but only 3 wires. I will try to upload pic's of the DMD board so you can see the unused 3 pin socket right next to the 4 pin socket for the colorwheel. Is there any to test the DMD board without having to buy one to replace it. What is the 3 pin socket for?
Thanks,
David {559850,Upload} |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 38
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 11:28 pm: |
|
I hate samsung.... |
Bronze Member Username: Ds5775
Post Number: 17
Registered: Feb-08
|
| Posted on Friday, March 27, 2009 - 12:32 pm: |
|
Ovadoggvo, HLR5067W, I tried all you have told me to do,1. I tried all other inputs and it stayed with the green lines.2.I tried with all the components and no change.3. I just hooked up my Laptop and the Picture was perfect as a monitor. So what do you think I should try first the analog board? I also tried on the service menu running a test on DDP1011 and DNIe and it went through all the colors and patterns like it say's it should so I guess it passed. |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 39
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Friday, March 27, 2009 - 03:01 pm: |
|
UPDATE: I just went out and bought another HDMI cable to save myself the hassle of ripping apart my WORKING entertainment center! lol
Hooked up my dvd player to the HDMI input on my sammy and guess what? the picture works! no more green crazy crap. HOWEVER.... there is a large gap on the bottom of the screen, about 4", and the picture is crooked and slopes down to the right. The 4" gap changes with different camera scenes. is this an adjustment that can be made? SO... after this test im assuming my Analog board has now crapped out?!?!?!? do you think replacing the Analog board will have any effect on fixing this large gap on the bottom of the screen?
PLEASE ADVISE SO I CAN GET THIS THING WORKING FOR ONCE AND ALL, I AM DETERMINED TO GET THIS SET UP AND RUNNING!
P.S. the picture isnt really blurry, just bad camera shot. |
New member Username: Av8er
San Antonio,
TX
U.S.A
Post Number: 3
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Friday, March 27, 2009 - 03:53 pm: |
|
I would like to know about the DMD board AA41-00694E. There is an unused 3 pin socket right next to the 4 pin socket that is used for the colorwheel. What is the info. on the 3 pin socket, the 4 pin plug from the colorwheel only has 3 wires in it. Why is my new colorwheel not spinning?
Thanks, |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 40
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Friday, March 27, 2009 - 05:20 pm: |
|
update: i pulled out my original light engine assembly and dmd board and installed the replacement light engine assembly with dmd board that i got from DM and the gap on the bottom of the screen is gone, the picture looks normal.
Is it possible something is out of wack on my light engine assembly? after taking it apart so many times? one thing i did do that i probably shouldnt have.. I took out the "lense" (im not sure what its called) the big eye ball looking thing that has that adjusting thumb wheel on it, i removed those 6 black screws and slid that whole assembly out. Did i mess up some adjustment by removing this part and then re-installing it?
I know there are marks to keep things aligned and i even tried rotating that thumb wheel a bit to see if the picture changed but i didnt notice a difference.
 |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 41
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Friday, March 27, 2009 - 07:19 pm: |
|
UPDATE:
I removed that entire lense assembly out of the light engine assembly, rotated that wheel almost 180 degrees counterclockwise, tested and picture was horrible. took back out and rotated 180 degrees clockwise back to original posistion and picture is close but not perfect. i took a picture with the red cross hair test pattern, you can see how it angles down to the right and how the vertical lines taper in towards the top. how the heck do i fix this?
I also tested the cable tv input with the coax cable and picture has the green lines, so im assuming this all means i need a new analog board? here is a picture with the coax cable input
 |
New member Username: Fighterf
Los Angeles,
CA
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 05:49 pm: |
|
I have a Samsung HL-S5687W and it will not turn on. Help!
This is how it went down;
Purchased the TV two years ago, all has been well. About two months ago, I noticed a high pitched noise that was audible whenever the TV was on (think old school tv, where you walk in the room and just know a TV is on).
Two weeks ago my girlfriend was watching tv and it "went yellow with black horizontal and vertical stripes for about four seconds", then turned off.
Now I get no video or audio. I push the power button, I hear TV turn on and click once, lamp turns on andd can be seen from the rear, but no video or audio. Lamp LED blinks for about 2-3 minutes, then TV powers off.
Samsung said it was the lamp, which I replaced and that did not work. I thought maybe it was the color wheel,. but I replaced the color wheel and housing, that did not do anything. Ive seen a few posts with similiar issues, but havent seen a resolution.
Please help, Thanks! |
New member Username: Rdhplano
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 11:20 pm: |
|
Drew Simmons,
I have the same model and the same symptoms you have pictures of. In my diagnostics, I never seem to have a problem on the HDMI input but the green screen is intermitent of all other inputs. (analog,comp,coax) I can get it to normal for several hours if I turn the TV off, let the bulb cool and then un-plug the tv. Unplugging, then plugging the TV back in seems to be critical to get the screen to normal. One additional note --- While the problem occurs on most digital channels, The primary digital channel may be normal. (IE channel 10.1 normal, 10.2/10.3 will be green screen) When I say green screen, I mean green screen ghosting. This ghosting is something from memory that is laid on top of the current channel. Looks exactly like your pictures. Dont know if this helps narrow it to a specific board/area. Thanks for your detailed notes |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 297
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Monday, March 30, 2009 - 02:42 am: |
|
mike b.,
If you messed with the lense, then the blurryness is typical. You need to re-adjust the focus. The best way to do it is by using a mirror in front of the TV as you adjust the lense. You can access the lens through a round access panel on the side of the TV's plastic casing. It's usually a fairly simple process.
As for replaceing the analog board. I would wait to make sure your digitals are all fine. Are your standard video inputs blurred? or is the problem just with the tuner? |
Silver Member Username: Ovadoggvo
Post Number: 298
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Monday, March 30, 2009 - 02:49 am: |
|
Michael,
My guess would be the color wheel. I'm 90% sure by the fact that you mentioned the noise prior to the problem. Your part number is BP96-01579A and can be found for $69 here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-Replacement-Color-Wheel-HLS-HLT-Series- p/samsungcolor_wheel_bp96-01579a.htm
Instructions on replaceing the color wheel for your tv can be found here:
http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp96-01579a.php
It's a fairly simply process if you are handy with a screwdriver..
Let us know how it goes! |
Bronze Member Username: Mxxmikexx
Post Number: 42
Registered: Sep-08
|
| Posted on Monday, March 30, 2009 - 09:46 am: |
|
ovadoggvo:
1) the ONLY input that has a clear picture is the HDMI input. Everything else has the messed up picture with all the green in it.
2) When using the HDMI, the picture isnt blurry, What i was trying to explain is the picture is out of whack. The bottom horizontal edge drops down to the right, and the left vertical edge tapers to the right. BUT.. if i install the "new" light engine assembly this all goes away. so im guessing either A) i messed something up by removing that lense from my original light engine assembly, or B) there is something wrong with my original dmd board? i dont know..... |
Bronze Member Username: Ds5775
Post Number: 18
Registered: Feb-08
|
| Posted on Monday, March 30, 2009 - 11:10 am: |
|
Ovadoggvo, HLR5067W, I tried all you have told me to do,1. I tried all
other inputs and it stayed with the green lines.2.I tried with all the
components and no change.3. I just hooked up my Laptop and the Picture
was perfect as a monitor. So what do you think I should try first the
analog board? I also tried on the service menu running a test on
DDP1011 and DNIe and it went through all the colors and patterns like
it say's it should so I guess it passed |
New member Username: Csedg
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Monday, March 30, 2009 - 09:53 pm: |
|
I think by reading the posts here from top to bottom it sounds like I need to replace the color wheel but maybe someone could confirm and provide the part number needed.
My unit is a HLR5067W and the symptoms have been off and on problems with the unit shutting itself down. It seemed to be as it was warming up was more of the problem than after running for a period of time - you would get the "shutting down noise" and unit would shut off - give it a few secs and turn on and after a few attempts it usually stayed on and would work fine the rest of the night. The audio on tone and then off tones became the joke in the house... sadly.
Last night it made a pop noise and now has a real bad "hum" and vibration. to power off I had to pull the plug from the back and if you reconnect it you get the buzz/hum and it acts like it is trying to start up - you turn it off from the remote.
Thoughts? color wheel? wanted to list for the post the fact that it would cycle itself off for several months now off and on and was very strange - as it almost always came back on and stayed on eventually - just left it alone, but now it's "kaboom".
Thanks in advance.
-C.
PS - with the hour or so to read the posts all I can say is I feel for Mike B. I think a baseball bat and a collection box on the corner might be the best remedy for everything there - crazy stuff! |
New member Username: Harry_c
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 - 02:46 am: |
|
After reading a bunch of posts I suspect my problem concerns the color wheel but I'm looking for confirmation or guidance if I'm wrong.
I own an almost 5 year old HLN617W1X/XAA. We had to replace the lamp several months ago (yes the replacement was a Philips). Other than that the set has worked perfectly until today.
After being on for approximately 30 minutes the picture began to flicker. The flickering continued and over a period of several minutes the color faded to almost black and white, with flashes of green or blue, then the set (audio and video) powered down with the nasty three lights flashing. The fan continued to run for a couple of minutes then it also shut down but the lights continued to flash.
The set wouldn't respond to the remote so I pushed the power button on the side and it attempted to start. During the attempt there was a sound that was similar to the air raid sirens you hear in old WW2 movies and the lamp light flashed. The first startup attempt was unsuccessful and the unit reset itself and tried again. The second startup attempt was successful with perfect video, audio, and no siren sound. After operating perfectly for 15-30 minutes the whole sequence was repeated.
The scenario has been repeated several times as I have tried to analyze the problem.
Is it a color wheel problem or something else? |
New member Username: Av8er
San Antonio,
TX
U.S.A
Post Number: 4
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 01, 2009 - 08:02 pm: |
|
I am looking for a DMD board p/n AA41-00694E, my board has no output to the colorwheel on the ribboncable. No one knows what drives the I.C.'s or how to check the board out, and I don't have a schematic of the board. Does anyone have a schematic of the DMD board or know were I can get one or the other.
Thanks |
Bronze Member Username: Ds5775
Post Number: 19
Registered: Feb-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, April 02, 2009 - 11:14 am: |
|
Ovadoggvo, HLR5067W, I tried all you have told me to do,1. I tried all
other inputs and it stayed with the green lines.2.I tried with all the
components and no change.3. I just hooked up my Laptop and the Picture
was perfect as a monitor. So what do you think I should try first the
analog board? I also tried on the service menu running a test on
DDP1011 and DNIe and it went through all the colors and patterns like
it say's it should so I guess it passed |
Bronze Member Username: Ds5775
Post Number: 20
Registered: Feb-08
|
| Posted on Saturday, April 04, 2009 - 09:37 am: |
|
Ovadoggvo, HLR5067W, I tried all you have told me to do,1. I tried all
other inputs and it stayed with the green lines.2.I tried with all the
components and no change.3. I just hooked up my Laptop and the Picture
was perfect as a monitor. So what do you think I should try first the
analog board? I also tried on the service menu running a test on
DDP1011 and DNIe and it went through all the colors and patterns like
it say's it should so I guess it passed
 |
New member Username: Bhamwash
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2009 - 05:01 pm: |
|
I have a 6 year old HLN5065W, which started with the picture freezing and eventually going away, and then all I would hear was the volume. It also wouldn't shut off so I had to unplug it to get the tv to turn off. I check the lamp it seems to be fine, lastily the unit will not even turn on now. Please HELP!!! |
Bronze Member Username: Sottilde
Post Number: 15
Registered: Jun-08
|
| Posted on Monday, April 06, 2009 - 04:11 pm: |
|
Hello again guys,
I have a 2 year old 55" HLS series DLP. It recently just stopped working. The set will power up the lights on the front will go on and the chime will sound, but the lamp doesn't light and the color wheel doesn't spin.
We tried replacing the lamp but it didn't help.
What would cause both the lamp to not light and the color wheel to not spin? I heard once that the logic on the boards won't start spinning the color wheel if the lamp doesn't light, which would probably explain why my HLN's wheel turns off and on a little bit when it boots (the lamp flashing), but could someone confirm this for me?
I have an HLN and I believe an HLR for parts for this HLS. Mounting aside, are the ballasts interchangeable? I'd end up buying the part eventually but I'd like to use the ballast from one of my other sets to test if it is, indeed, the ballast.
Thanks everyone. |
Bronze Member Username: Sottilde
Post Number: 16
Registered: Jun-08
|
| Posted on Monday, April 06, 2009 - 06:06 pm: |
|
Update on this:
My other TV was also an HLS, my bad. I swapped a bunch of parts: ballast, color wheel, power board, and lamp. None of them brought it back to life and I know they're working. What else could it be? It only points to the digital board from what I can see, but the symptoms don't seem to match. Again:
Lamp won't light
Wheel won't spin
Fans go on fine
Green light on the DMD (board on the light engine). |
Bronze Member Username: Sottilde
Post Number: 17
Registered: Jun-08
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2009 - 12:53 am: |
|
I also tried swapping the thermal sensor and door sensor, and it's a no go.
I'm really at a loss. Since it's not the ballast, lamp, or color wheel, it must be the DMD, right? Would a DMD failure cause the lamp not to light and the color wheel not to spin? |
New member Username: Toms94
Post Number: 3
Registered: May-08
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2009 - 10:26 pm: |
|
I just thought that I would offer up a color wheel for sale. Long story shortened I have an extra BP96-00674A color wheel. I am willing to let it go for what I paid, $30 plus shipping. Anyone interested? Email me at ciscokid at gmx dot com. |
New member Username: Mikehamb
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 04:20 pm: |
|
Please Help.
I have a Samsung HLR-6768w the color wheel died and was replaced but now its like the picture washes out when the images are closer to the screen does it with HDMI from dvd and sat. |
New member Username: Atracker
Post Number: 4
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Friday, April 10, 2009 - 07:53 pm: |
|
Mike B. – Realign the DMD
Drew Simmons – Check my post
Sean- Chime in with any updates
I have not been back to check on things here but I see some of you have made reference to my response (Andrew). I will make an update on my post under Rear Projection TV’s “The DMD Board is not always the problem”. ATracker, 03-04-2009 I will try to help you out there. |
New member Username: Atracker
Post Number: 5
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Friday, April 10, 2009 - 08:10 pm: |
|
Johnny Marx
Go to my Post and I will try and help you there. I do not know for sure without checking that you can change out the parts from different HL-x numbers Give me your full Model number. |
Bronze Member Username: Ds5775
Post Number: 25
Registered: Feb-08
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 09:55 am: |
|
To ALL Unhappy Samsung Owners.I have contacted a Lawyer about starting
a Class Action Lawsuit against Samsung for Defective Parts, Panasonic
had one and they lost there case for defective Parts Google it you can
see about it. But by reading all the posts here and on Many Many More
sites, It seems over 80% of us have the same problems with are Samsung
DLP TV's and now finding out that the parts are no longer available
after less then 3 years is a Problem this is just an FYI if they take
the case I am sure that many of you will want to get it on the suit, I
will keep you posted if you are interested |
New member Username: Yokemonkey
Post Number: 8
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 11:32 pm: |
|
Samsung DLP 61"
Model# HLM617WX/XAA
Serial# 31HW2003**J
Manufacture Date - Feb 2003
Help requested.
My TV has a new lamp, lamp ballast, and color wheel installed.
My lamp will not illuminate unless the TV has been unplugged for an extended period of time.
Even then the lamp will only lite for 1 second, sometimes almost 30 seconds.
On rare occasions
I can get the service menu to come up for 4 seconds, then the image will either blank out or it will display black and white vertical lines sometimes horizontal, all while the lamp is still working. At this point the TV is uncontrollable and must be unplugged.
On very rare occasions
The TV (after many start attempts) will work flawlessly for days. But if I turn it off I may not get it on for days again.
Today's attempts
It turned on with a blank screen. I don't like to just unplug it because I don't want to damage the lamp, so I unplug and plug-in with a slight pause before I turn it on so the fan can cool the lamp. The TV starts on the second self start attempt, and is still on at this time - and will be until the next power outage.
Can anyone diagnose this problem?
I bought my lamp from DM
E23 100/120w 1.0
Do I have the right ballast?
I have the ballast BP47-00016A
(?V, ?A, ?W)
other ballasts offered
AA47-00008A (43",50") LAMP-BALLAST-TS
(370V,0.33A,100W)
BP47-00003A 61" LAMP-BALLAST-OS
(380V,0.4A,135W)
BP47-00009A
(?V, ?A, ?W)
My color wheel BP96-00250A
Thanks in advance |
New member Username: Yokemonkey
Post Number: 9
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Thursday, April 16, 2009 - 02:43 pm: |
|
When I replaced my color wheel I also removed my temp sensor for a visual inspection.
It rattled when I shook it.
Is that normal?
Should there be something loose inside?
Could this be my gremlin?
Temp sensor part# 4712-001020
Thanks again. |
New member Username: Jmf_stl
Saint Louis,
MO
United States
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 12:21 pm: |
|
I have a Samsung model HLN507W1. The TV works but the color wheel sounds like a saw going through plywood. I know this is probably answered somewhere in here but I have not found it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, |
New member Username: Jodalee
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jul-08
|
| Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 05:36 pm: |
|
ovadoggvo or anyone else who can help me...
My Samsung DLP TV (HLR5667W) is displaying red on the screen. For the most part, it's red then every now and then it goes away and the picure is normal.. Any help diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joda |
New member Username: Sammy61
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 09:07 pm: |
|
I have a Samsung HLR6167WX/XAA
Symptoms: Picture blacks out but I have audio. Lamp is on in the back and I can't bring up the menu in any source (DVD/Cable/etc...). I have to turn off the TV and wait for the lamp to shutoff and then turn on the TV to get the picture back. This happens intermittently but frequently and sometimes it stays on for a while before it blacks out.
From what I have read it seems to be the DMD board. A Samsung technician said it could be one of the 2 boards.
Can anybody verify this and what part number do I need to order if it is the DMD board. Thanks for any help! |
New member Username: Mgreen200
Tuscumbia,
Al
United States
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 10:28 pm: |
|
My HLR5078W DLP is on its last leg. The last two weeks it has experienced random picture lockups, pictures where the colors are primarly pink, green and purple, no picture with sound, weird green and black sawtooth patterns on screen, and weird geomentry. I replaced the lamp and cleaned the light engine last week. The picture was much improved but a couple hours later experienced same problems. You can unplug it for a bit and the problem usually goes away. I dont think its the color wheel. It looked good last week and its not that old. You can hear it spin up at power on. The problems happen a lot of the times when I am changing inputs. This morning the colors got funky after switching inputs, I checked the PIP and the colors were wacked also. I hooked my video camera to the composite inputs and they were wacked also> same for the menu screen. Does this sound like the Dmd board or the Digital board? I cannot find a new DMD board for less than $700. I have found a place that will repair it for $380 with a six month warrany. I can get a digital board for around $200. Which route should I go. |
New member Username: Zaphod_fl
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 09:00 am: |
|
I have the exact same problem as Andrew has. It all started with a Cable Card from Comcast. I am hopeful that they will cover the repair but am still looking to determine what the problem is. I have gone through the service screen and the DMD appears to be fine... All other inputs are fine, just Digital tuning. What is the final part(s) that need to be purchased to repair the unit? |
New member Username: Kc2cag
Centennial,
CO
Post Number: 7
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 10:08 am: |
|
Hi,
Thanks to the excellent info and resources on this message board, I've replaced the shattered color wheel and put a new Philips bulb in my Samsung HL-R4266w.
While the set is now back in service, there are some strange color artifacts sometimes present. It seems that they usually happen in material which has been filmed, or shot live - such as newscasts - in low light. The colors sometimes seem like they have rainbow-like "oil slick" coloration around them. I tried using the service menu to adjust things, but the detailed settings appear too complex to funderstand and fix the problem. Does anyone have a suggestion to fix the problem? |
New member Username: Raideray
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
|
| Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 09:11 pm: |
|
I have a Samsung HLR5667W that would not power on after turning it off at night (goes into standby). The next day it won't power on unless I unplug it for a few minutes. So I had been leaving it on for the last month and a half. Called a repair tech since all three lights were not flashing to indicate a bad lamp. He said it was the lamp and since the TV is 3 and a half years old so it was due. While waiting for the replacement lamp ( 3days), the original lamp went out completely. Replaced the lamp, but I still have the original problem that it will not power up until I unplug it for a few minutes. Does this indicate a failing ballast or power supply? |
New member Username: Big_d_z
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 10:38 pm: |
|
I have a Samsung HLN617WX/XAA DLP TV. For about the past month, after startup the TV has either 1) gone blank with no picture or 2) freeze with a scattered set of white pixels. The frozen images of white pixels changes to whatever is displayed last (actually, its not completely frozen, if I stare long enough, I see pixels change state, either to black or white).
Here's an example of a "frozen" state:
I've tested this with DVI input and an analog input antenna-a. When it does go blank/frozen, I still get sound. I also get no blinking light indication of an issue. The power button on the remote does work to allow me to turn it off. I can change analog channels, change volume but no display works, i.e. menu, tv/video, pip, etc.
I've taken the back cover off and have verified that all 3 fans are working, the lamp is working and have used an C02 can to clear out any dust build-up. |
New member Username: Msv
Post Number: 5
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 02:01 am: |
|
Brandon
I think that it is your DMD board.
If so, I believe it is model (#AA41-00694E), it should work in most HLN models...It worked in mine.
http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1077996-samsung.htm
Discount-Merchant should have this part for around $180-$200
(SAMSUNG N/A Projection - DMD Board AA41-00694E HLN437W/HLN507W)
DM recommends that you check the old part you have with the part they are selling on their website to make sure you are getting what you need.
Take the back shielding off your old DMD board, there are numbers on the board that you can cross-reference with the photos of the part DM is selling.
Good Luck |
New member Username: Rbsmith6
Machanicsburg,
PA
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2009 - 05:03 pm: |
|
I just installed a new color wheel assembly in a HLN4663. The noise is gone but the colors are all wrong. What did I miss |
New member Username: Big_d_z
Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, May 03, 2009 - 08:30 pm: |
|
MSV,
I checked my DMD board. I have version AA41-00694D (L26A).
Do I need to get this exact board? I only found the whole light engine for this version (out of stock) listed on DM.
Brandon |
New member Username: Mgreen200
Tuscumbia,
Al
United States
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, May 03, 2009 - 09:41 pm: |
|
Does this look like a bad DMD board? The picture is like this on all inupts, pip, and menus. I did the dmd test in the service mode and the only screen that shows up is the blue one. The rest are solid black. If you unplug the set enough times it will eventulally go away.
 |
New member Username: Toms94
Post Number: 4
Registered: May-08
|
| Posted on Sunday, May 03, 2009 - 10:22 pm: |
|
Bob Smith, I suppose that it is possible that you plugged the little flat cable on the new light wheel in backwards. I'd give that a try.
I still have a new/used color wheel for sale if someone needs it.
Long story shortened I have an extra BP96-00674A color wheel. I am willing to let it go for what I paid, $30 plus shipping. Anyone interested? Email me at ciscokid at gmx dot com. |
New member Username: Rbsmith6
Machanicsburg,
PA
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, May 03, 2009 - 10:52 pm: |
|
Never mind. The jumper is not on the color wheel. It is in the small square hole below the yellow and white sticker an can be removed through the light cover access without taking the entire back off. |
New member Username: Suparoku
Louisville,
KY
USA
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Monday, May 04, 2009 - 09:34 am: |
|
MSV et al.,
Unfortunately I didn't get the DMD board that my set needs (#AA41-00694E) before they went out of stock at D-M. Haven't seen them in stock for almost two months. I signed up for the email notification and haven't heard anything either.
Anyone know another part source?
Thanks,
Bill Spurlock |
New member Username: Foobar
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
|
| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 05:17 pm: |
|
Hi All - Any help is greatly appreciated. A few weeks ago my Samsung HL-T5075S started shutting off randomly while making buzzing noises. I immediately suspected the lamp and replaced that myself, but it did not fix the problem. I had a tech come to the house, and he diagnosed the problem as a bad ballast. He replaced the ballast a week ago, and everything was working fine until a day ago. Now, the TV shuts itself off (this time, without the buzzing noises). When I attempt to power it on, it makes the normal strong "click" and then nothing happens for about 30 seconds. After about half a minute, the lamp comes on, but I get no picture or sound. After about 3 minutes of this, it then turns itself off.
Another tech came out today and told me its the DMD board - $595 for parts and labor.
The TV is 14 months old, and like I said, it has a new lamp and ballast. Does anyone have any idea what might be the problem? |
New member Username: Msv
Post Number: 6
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 08:21 pm: |
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Bill S.
Sorry to here that...I hope that DM will be restocked soon!! You might call them to see if they could do a visual inventory, there might be one hiding in back corner of their warehouse.
Good luck
Brandon,
Glad that you checked your board...from what I understand is that D board is older than the E.
You might be able to upgrade, but the voltage might be different. I would stay with the same board you have just to play it safe.
You can also check with Ovadoggvo who is posting on, http://fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46&p=209#p209
and may have the answer.
Good Luck |
New member Username: Ghaakenson
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 09:47 pm: |
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I have a Samsung HLS 5687w bought in 2006. Several weeks ago we started seeing light colored, bars around 4" thick scrolling slowly up the screen. They extend the entire width of the screen. I thought I had isolated the problem to our cable box PVR and was ready to replace it when the problem stopped for a couple weeks. Then it returned and about a week later the picture wouldn't come on (the lamp wouldn't light). I replaced the lamp 3 weeks ago and all has been perfect until tonight after a major rain storm. Now the bars are back.
HELP |
New member Username: Ghaakenson
Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 10:17 am: |
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The bars are green against most background colors, esp. white |
New member Username: Srv
Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 11:26 am: |
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Ovadoggvo, have Samsung HLR5067WX/XAA .
Replaced color wheel in November,replaced lamp last week. Will shut off right after your turn on, have to unplug and then hope it will return picture.
Has shaded area to left of screen 4" runs from top to bottom. before picture turns off TV pictures goes in slow motion, then the word HDMI appears at top left side of screen. Any chance to save this TV?? |
New member Username: Toshmi
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Friday, May 15, 2009 - 10:48 am: |
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On the DMD board (AA41-00694E) for my HLN507WX there is a 3-pin socket next to the 4-pin socket which is being utilized for the color wheel. That 3-pin socket is not being used...does anyone know what it is? Could it be used for the color wheel using some sort of 4 to 3-pin "converter" (since there are only 3 wires...2 whites & a blue...to the 4-pin)? thank you... |
New member Username: Joe15720
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jun-08
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 - 12:00 am: |
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Hi, need some help for sure. Have a Samsung HLN5065W/XAA that will not turn on sometimes. Does not respond to the remote or any of the side buttons. Sometimes you get get the start up chimes, hear the color wheel start up, but no image. Other times, nothing happens at all. Replaced bulb with phillips from D-M about 2 years ago. Replaced color wheel and ballast 3 weeks ago. Was having the typical bearing whine from the color wheel and thought while I was already in there to replace the ballast just in case it was the problem. Well TV worked fine for 2 weeks after wheel and ballast were replaced.
Thanks |
New member Username: Coolpairpl
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 - 02:08 pm: |
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Does anyone know how many volts should be at the two pin connector for the Ballast on a HLR6178W? I Have 325 +-
Thanks |
New member Username: Coolpairpl
Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 - 03:28 pm: |
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Can't see if color wheel is spinning, not making noise, took out, not broken, spins freely by hand.
Changed lamp & Ballast
Have 325v to the balast
Tried service mode Mute 1 8 2 Power, nothing different happens.
Can I jump the low voltage verification circuit to the balast?
Any other sugestions would be appreciated.
Thanks |
New member Username: 120inna55
Athens,
TX
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-05
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| Posted on Thursday, May 21, 2009 - 11:51 am: |
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This has been an ongoing issue but it's recently gotten worse. I hope someone here can help.
My set flickers. Period. That's it.
The image is not interrupted, there is just a very annoying flicker of brightness level that sometimes lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, then the flickering goes away just as suddenly as it starts. Today it's happening very frequently. It seems to happen less the longer the set is on.
When this has happenend in the past, I've replaced the lamp and all would be good for about 3 months then it starts up again. It may not happen for several weeks.
I've essentially replaced the lamp about every 6-8 months to avoid the problem, but I know it's not the lamp. It's not even associated with a dim lamp.
It has the same characteristics of a standard flourescent bulb that is going bad. You know, like the annoying flicker of those overhead floursecent lamps.
The set is on a good quality UPS with power conditioner. It has also done this directly plugged into the wall. Reseating the lamp doesn't help either. The only thing that seem to help is putting in a new lamp, but that only lasts about 3 months before the flickering begins to start back up.
What could this be? Ballast maybe? |
New member Username: Coolpairpl
Post Number: 8
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Friday, May 22, 2009 - 09:07 am: |
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I'm no expert but it seems to me that alot could be diagnosed from the five pin connector that goes to the ballast if you knew what pin and what it goes to was supposed to have voltage or no voltage for the component to be working properly.
Does anybody know the information pertaining to this?
Thanks |
New member Username: Imsasun
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Friday, May 22, 2009 - 01:09 pm: |
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Hello. I have a Samsung HLR 5067WAX/XAA. It recently started exhibiting these symptoms. When displaying standard definition content input from either of the component inputs, the picture will freeze or blackout, primarily when the image being displayed is mostly white or fast-moving. The sound will also sometimes go out. This will last only until a different image would be displayed. For example, the 'I'm a Mac' commercials, which are primarily a white background, will display only a couple of frames and some sound, but the next commercial will likely be OK. The same material (even a DVR recording of it) will be fine if the source is connected via composite rather than component input, and high definition versions also display correctly. The source or specific input jacks do not seem to matter. Any ideas as to the cause would be appreciated. Thanks! |
New member Username: Jaydiar
Durham ,
NC
US
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 01:52 am: |
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Ovadoggvo,
I have a Samsung HLS5086W. It will not turn on. I disconnected the power and waited to plug it back in. When I did, the relay? made a click before I could even try to press the power button. After a few seconds the lamp light flashed green for a few times, then the middle light flashed green, then all three would flash together, I was told this was the bulb. I got a new bulb (phillips-like the orig.) it did not work, same thing happened. Help |
New member Username: Craigdlp50
California
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Sunday, June 14, 2009 - 10:25 pm: |
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Samsung DLP HLT5075S, began turning itself off randomly. Standby/Temp light blinks, clicking sound, but no lamp fire-up; may do this for a few minutes or a few hours, then the TV will come back on. The set may work for 5 minutes or 5 hours (perfect picture) before it shuts off again. Sometimes the sequence changes: rather than red light/click, the set will make a buzzing noise two or three times and the green LED will flash and the set will kick back on right away, but tends to revert back to red light/click sequence shortly thereafter.
I thought the problem may involve the HD cable box because the TV seems to recover faster if I turn the box off. Before I had the cable box replaced I unplugged it and ran the cable directly into the set. The set did not cut-out nearly as frequently (I'd say about 1% as often) as with the box hooked up. Cable company denies any connection, but a friend of ours told us they have the same problem since getting an HD box (coincidence?)
Tech diagnosed as either lamp (~3900 hrs on original) or ballast, but after reading the comments here I'm not so sure. He was befuddled by no warning light sequence. Waiting for Samsung to send parts.
Any thoughts? |
New member Username: Brysaintclair
Deerfield beach,
Fl
Us
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Sunday, June 14, 2009 - 11:13 pm: |
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okay i need some help.
i have an hln567wx, a samsung dlp. the set starts up fine, stays on, but a week back i noticed these white flicks, they became white flickers. a lot of them, about every twenty seconds or so. i changed the bulb, reset the bulb hour meter, and that did not help.
i've read so many forums on what might be the problem, it does not appear to be the color wheel. after closer inspection of said wheel, it is clean, and clear making no sounds at all.
yet i am still stuck.
with white light flashes.
any ideas? |
New member Username: Convergence55
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 11:04 pm: |
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Joe Langer: I believe the 5 pin ballast connector on the DMD has 2 grounds and maybe 2 active pins // LAMP ENABLE and LAMP LIT // I don't know if the fifth wire does anything for a living // also someone was questioning what the 3pin connector under the 2 colorwheel connectors was for and as I recall thats also a ballast connector (1 ground // LAMP ENABLE and LAMP LIT) . |
New member Username: Alex_n
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Friday, June 26, 2009 - 01:47 am: |
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Hi, I'm currently having a problem with my Samsung 46" DLP, model HL-S4666W, purchased in 2006. The picture begins to cut out about a minute after we turn it on, but the audio still plays for about 10 seconds after the picture cuts out. After the audio turns off also, we get the 3 blinking lights on the front. If we turn off the power with the TV remote, the TV tries to power itself on again. While it is doing so, the Lamp light blinks for about 10 seconds, only to go back to the 3 blinking lights. This cycle repeats itself until we hard reset the power/flip the surge protector off.
We've replaced the lamp and color wheel using parts from D-M, but the problem persists. After a hard reset, the picture will come on for another minute or two, only to cut out again until we hard reset. The lamp timer has also been reset from the TV settings, so we are completely stuck on where to go next.
The ballast was considered for replacement, but it seems to be working properly since we only hear one click every time the TV attempts to power on. If there are any suggestions to what else may be wrong, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks! |
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