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Thread: Archive through January 06, 2008 |
    
New member Username: Vinny_75
Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-06
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| Posted on Monday, December 25, 2006 - 08:01 pm: |
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I presume you are joking. In all seriousness, can someone please explain what symptoms one should expect on a fuse problem? Since all my speakers do work eventhough the power woofer wont work, I was wondering if it is still a woofer fuse related..
thanks |
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Relevant Product Info
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New member Username: Liquidaudio
Post Number: 3
Registered: Nov-06
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| Posted on Monday, December 25, 2006 - 11:34 pm: |
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Dear Vinny,
If you are not sure, call Bose Tech Support (800-367-4008). They can fix the unit for a flat charge. I just faced a similar problem with Acoustimass 15 bass module and first I thought it is related to fuse. I came to this forum and I opened the unit after reading other folks posting. But it was not. So I got it repaired through Bose support. Check my earlier posting on it in this forum. |
New member Username: Vinny_75
Post Number: 3
Registered: Dec-06
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| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 11:24 pm: |
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AB,
Just dropped my Woofer at the service center in MA. Had to wait for an hr for a tech rep to pick it up as the service center closed operations 3hrs early today. For that inconvenience, they waived off the $75 fee and promised to ship it in 2 weeks. We will see. I have to admit..It was top class customer service. |
New member Username: Liquidaudio
Post Number: 4
Registered: Nov-06
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| Posted on Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 01:45 pm: |
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Vinny:
That is really cool. What can be better than a free service from Bose!
-- AB |
New member Username: Stew_of_sedgley
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 02:57 pm: |
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I recently had the centre channel go down on my lifestyle 30 system. The fix was simple.
Put system into 3 speaker mode. Then adjust surround volume up to re-adjust level of centre speaker on its own.
Free advice from Bose.
I was amazed too.
Hope this helps someone |
New member Username: Zshaik
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-07
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| Posted on Friday, January 19, 2007 - 02:26 pm: |
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Hi All,
I have Bose Lifestyle 28 Series and my Mainunit is not working is there is any way that i can connect speekers and subWoofer with out main unit, so that i can at least i can use the rest of the Bose Lifestyle 28 Series parts. Please Help zshaik@msn.com |
New member Username: Brainquagmire
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-07
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| Posted on Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 02:54 pm: |
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OK Fellas (and Ladies), here's more detail on the blown fuse fix:
1. You can find the 'plastic swivel tab with notches' by looking for gear teeth in the top rear of the unit. To provide some context, I've placed the subwoofer with the serial number side down, horn is up-front and treble/bass dials on the left. Remove the dial knobs.
2. Now place the unit flat with the horn-side down. Literally use a tennis shoe to spank the plastic cover (on the same side as the gear wheel) in a 45 degree upward motion so the RCA plug holes in the plastic cover are dislodged from the jacks and the unit pops off. One good spank does the job *hee hee*.
3. 2 screws will be visible at the top of the green circuit board. Unscrew these and remove cable ribbons that attach circuit board to other pieces of the unit.
4. The fuse is a cylindrical glass piece, 5mmx20mm. Mine was burnt and coils were missing, an obvious sign of a blown fuse.
5. Don't go to radio shack to find a replacement. They are seriously under-equipped to assist. Go online or to a real electrical supply store to get a 3Amp, 250 Volt 5x20mm slowblow fuse. Don't try to call Bose either because this will inevitably result in more pain. They will try to coax you to order an owner's manual for $10 to get the part number, so you can pay an inflated rate to get the same piece from them. Grrr.
6. I saved $200 - thanks to all contributors on the board. Good work.
7. If this advice helps you, do something nice to help a homeless or mistreated animal. Humans can never be too kind to the rest of the creatures on this planet.
Peace |
New member Username: Apached
Sydney,
NSW
Australia
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-07
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| Posted on Friday, February 02, 2007 - 04:33 pm: |
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Hi all,
We approached Bose in Australia for a 230
V power supply to replace 110V supply of Lifestyle 48 sytem purchased in the US. Was told it would cost A$1600 for conversion as they need to Change ROM Drive, Radio bandwidth etc.
Would like to know if anyone had similar experience and will appreciate any suggestions comments. |
Silver Member Username: Gavdawg
Post Number: 194
Registered: Nov-06
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| Posted on Friday, February 02, 2007 - 05:12 pm: |
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for that price; eBay it, ship it to the USA, and start over, with Bose or with another brand. |
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New member Username: Apached
Sydney,
NSW
Australia
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-07
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| Posted on Saturday, February 03, 2007 - 08:59 am: |
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I would agree that starting over is a sensible idea. Problem is it has already cost appros $400 to ship it out here and will be similar cost to ship back!! |
New member Username: Pawy
QLD,
QLD
Australia
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-07
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| Posted on Saturday, February 03, 2007 - 09:43 am: |
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Ok so i finally worked out how to get that stupid cover off....
Found STA08-800 to not be working bypassed it..
System has power now yippie..!!!
Still not a sound out of it..!!!
GRRRR
Its not going to beat me i swear.... |
New member Username: Jos_1
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-07
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| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 01:20 pm: |
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I knew Bose is crap. In my case, I found a pair of bose bookcase speakers in a garage sale for $1.00 the pair, and you guessed it, they don't work. I removed the two 4" bose speakers and they look fine, but they don't work. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pair of 4" replacement speakers for $4.00 each, installed them in the bose speaker cabinets and they work and sound fine.
The incredible thing is that I have 40 year-old equipment like Fisher and even cheap stuff from the 1960's Sears catalog, and the speakers and components still work fine. (this is before "Made In Japan") Then comes an Amerrican company like Bose and starts peddling garbage packaged in designer yuppy wrappers, for unbelievably high prices, and people run to buy the caca, then their only resort is forums like these! Give me a break! Throw the bose stuff away and buy a REAL HIFI system please. |
Gold Member Username: Nuck
Post Number: 5941
Registered: Dec-04
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| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 01:35 pm: |
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jos, you will fit in just fine.
I like the 701's however. |
New member Username: Jos_1
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-07
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| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 03:56 pm: |
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nuck, thanks for the welcome, what are 701's?
(my only experience with anything Bose is those two bookcase speakers! and you already know it was a crash).
I am still scratching my head about those two 4" (or 4½") Bose Speakers with their very heavy magnets and rubber cones, in excellent-looking condition, but they don't sound. Yes, I still have them in the Radio Shack boxes!
If they did work, I bet they would work great in a car stereo, or wouldn't they? I guess I'll just dream on.... |
Gold Member Username: Arande2
400dB could probably d...,
SouthWest Mi...
Too Many DBs...
Post Number: 1233
Registered: Dec-06
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| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 04:03 pm: |
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I dunno, I put a little 2.5" driver in a giant enclosure and it had a whollop more bass than I expected it to have and it sounds fine. |
New member Username: Sbnootful
Post Number: 2
Registered: Sep-06
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| Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 06:16 pm: |
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Does any one know how to disassemle the bose cube to be able to replace the drivers? |
New member Username: Jos_1
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-07
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| Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 07:59 pm: |
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this might not help you but in the case of my bookcase speaker cabinets, the trick was to remove the grilles, which were heat-gun 'welded' to the front of the cabinets, and not just that, but the finishing metal decorative plate on top of the grille was contact-cement-glued to the grille, and right behind it, there was the one-and-only screw for the grille. (tacky, very tacky assembly and pure self-serving design), The only way to remove that metal plate was to pry it, and damage was impossible to avoid. Once the grille was off the dumb cabinets, then the 2 non-working speakers/woofers were removable by 3 phillips screws each. I said 3 screws, not 4.
In my opinion, today's component and speaker cabinet designs are 'amateur' to say the least. Bose is the Queen of Amateur Design. One has to go back to the 1960's to find properly designed stereo equipment that SOUNDS like a Stereo.
being a musician as well, I remember a few years ago when Bose tried to market a sound system for guitarists, keyboardists, and Public Address System or "PA". It was sooooo ridiculous, sounded like a tin-can-in-heat, lots of hype and marketing for a laughable product that quickly and quietly dissapeared from the scene!
regards to all of you Bose lovers, sooner or later you'll find out that 'she doesn't love you'. |
New member Username: Diklas80
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-07
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| Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 05:22 pm: |
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I own a new Bose Cinemate system. The fuse in the Acustimass module was burnt. looks like the Power PCB was also damaged. Can I get an EOM replacement PCB? Are the Bass modules the same for the Ciemate system and other Bose systems?
Looking at the Bose repair price I don't fill like spending a lot. |
Gold Member Username: Nuck
Post Number: 7017
Registered: Dec-04
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| Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 06:42 pm: |
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Is the repair price so huge as compared to the purchase price, Yossi? |
New member Username: Jos_1
Post Number: 4
Registered: Feb-07
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| Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 07:29 pm: |
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man, why bother with Bose? as if they were the only component speaker on earth! I agree they are a POS, so why don't we all show Bose by buying some other brand? I mean, here we are subsidizing that company, making them RICH, and they give us, GARBAGE.
Not me! Blown fuses, un-openable cabinets,
don't you all get it? Bose DON'T CARE! It's a ripoff!
Adios Bose, so long, Farewell, Auf Widerssen, Goodbyeeee! |
Gold Member Username: Nuck
Post Number: 7024
Registered: Dec-04
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| Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 08:38 pm: |
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Is Jos actually Julie Andrews? |
Gold Member Username: Thx_3417
Bournemouth ...
Post Number: 3708
Registered: May-05
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| Posted on Saturday, April 28, 2007 - 05:38 pm: |
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LOL 
 |
New member Username: Diklas80
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-07
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| Posted on Sunday, April 29, 2007 - 03:52 pm: |
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Does the Acustimass module of a 123 DVD system have the same power board as the Cinemate Acustimass module?
How can I obtain this power PCB? |
New member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 4
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 02:12 am: |
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Holy crap!!
OK, Bose owners out there listen up and listen good. Here's the real scoop on 1.(getting access to the inside of most bose subwoofers, 2.( repairing said subwoofer.
Follow these steps in removing the cover of your subwoofer. Unscrew the two screws from the cover. (They are on the input/output side of the cover) Remove the two knobs (Bass and treble volume). On the opposite side of the cover, (put those damn shoes back in the closet) there is a lockout tab that needs to be swung out, it moves 90 degrees in a counter-clockwise direction and is located under the center of the cover. A small flat blade screwdriver works great for swinging this tab out and will be necessary for the next step (the screwdriver that is). On the same side (opposite the input/output side) there are two small tabs near the edges of the cover, one on the right and it's counterpart on the left. If you look closely in the gap between the cover and the sub itself, you will see these 3/8" wide tabs near the edges and towards the top of the cover. With the flat blade screwdriver, put the blade between the cover and on the tab and pull down. Then with your hand balled into a fist, gently hit that side of the cover towards the input/output side. the cover will move only slightly but the tab should remain depressed. Do the same procedure on the opposite side of the cover and it will slide about a 1/2 to 3/4" towards the input/output side and can then be removed by pulling it straight up and off of the cabinet.
Yay! If you get this far without incident then you are ready to implement repairs. In the case of the AM15's, normally what happens is a resistor will open up and prevent the triac (turn-on device) from firing. The fuse is on the underside of the PC board and this above mentioned resistor is a 100 ohm, surface mount "chip" resistor on the top side of the PC board. It will not appear to be bad but trust me, if the fuse is good and the sub will not turn on... replace it! You don't have to use a chip resistor since as a consumer you may have a rough time finding one but a 1/8 watt or 1/4 watt resistor you can find at any Radio Shack will work just dandy in this application. Cut the leads short and solder the two cut leads to the pads on the circuit board where the chip resistor is currently sitting. The chip resistor will be black, about 1/4" long, 1/8" wide and have "101" printed on it's surface. On some models they used two 200 ohm resistors in parallel but the result is the same. One 1/4w axial lead resistor will do just fine. Plug it up and give it a try. (Before you replace the cover).
Secondly, if the fuse is blown on a "Lifestyle" Bose subwoofer, contrary to popular belief, it blew for a reason. The speaker outputs and the subwoofer output devices are TDA7294 IC's with TIP142 and TIP147 Motorola transistors used as current supplements to these said output devices. If the fuse is blown and replacing it only results in another blown fuse then chances are good that one or more of these are blown. In some cases it's very easy to tell, the front of these IC's will be blown off and/or you will see burn marks on the board where they are mounted. These devices are located inside the amp portion of the subwoofer. (The black metal heatsink underneath the input/preamp PCB. As a consumer, if the fuse is blown, unless you are familiar with soldering techniques and troubleshooting electronics, leave this to the pro's. It isn't as easy as you might think and you can destroy the PCB in your attempts to repair it.
On Lifestyle 25II and Lifestyle 30II systems there is a problem with the surround portion of the sub system. Inside on the surround PCB there is a 400 MHZ crystal that clocks converted (to digital format) audio signals through the surround processing area of the sub. These crystals fail and the system, although it powers up just fine, has no output at all or it is intermittent.
There are a jillion different models of Bose "Lifestyle" systems and other Bose products each with it's own quirky behavior and common maladies. If you have specific questions about a particular model or Bose system with a perceived or real problem, then email me and I will try to be of service to you. If I had 10 more bucks for every Bose system I've repaired in my lifetime I could buy a house boat. ( Not that I really want or need one) but you get the idea.
mr3dzpop@bellsouth.net |
Gold Member Username: Nuck
Post Number: 7288
Registered: Dec-04
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 08:03 pm: |
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Nice, Mark.
Real nice! |
New member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 6
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 09:24 pm: |
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Thanks Nuck
I do this every day for a living and have been working for the same company for the last 20 years. What I see a great deal of is equipment sent in for repair that is simply ESO (Equipment Superior to Operator), newer receivers that have their little brains scrambled and just need reseting and/or some simple 'wrong button pushed', 'speaker switch not on', menu setting changed accidently by a child, pet or owner. In many cases these customers are paying $50 (estimate/processing fee) for something they could have done themselves if they'd only known. Where I work, all the techs are of the mind set to be able to put themselves on the other side of the counter when it comes to customer service and because of this philosophy we have been very successful in maintaining a very trusting and loyal customer base. I would much rather talk to a customer on the phone BEFORE he/she drops off their equipment for repair and help determine if they have a real or only perceived problem.
I will try to be as active on this message board as I can and be of as much assistance as possible simply because I can. With that said, I must admit that I may be taking a bit of a hiatus here soon because of sugery on my right hand little finger Thursday morning and the less than pleasant news that I will have to wear a splint on that finger for 6 weeks. So if my posts are slow in coming and the P's, quotes and apostrophes are missing, it's because my pinky has been bound, gagged and wrapped in a small coffin. |
New member Username: Tipitina
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 07:10 pm: |
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Does the chip resistor just plug in or does it have to be soldered also? If it can be plugged, can you possibly send one? I can send money order or paypal! While I am pretty adept at soldering, if that doesn't fix it, I will have no onther option but to send to Bose, and I am afraid they will not fix if it has a non-standard piece of equipment. Your thoughts Mark?
PS Thanks for all the great info thus far! |
New member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 7
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 10:51 pm: |
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First of all Matt, it all depends on what model of subwoofer you have and what version of that model. There are literally dozens of different Bose subwoofers out there. The 100 ohm resistor was only in reference to the AM15's. These subwoofers are made to take your speaker level outputs from any receiver and generate the low frequencies filtered out of that input content. Only one model has the 100 ohm resistor on the top. Some of the AM15's have two 20 ohm chip resistors that will also fail and prevent the the power supply from coming on and in their case the aforementioned 100 ohm resistor is on the bottom of the board. The chip resistors in question will be located on the top of the pc board near the lower left (as your facing the sub as it would be if in use) about an 1 1/2" above where the AC socket is mounted to the board. They are sitting there all by their lonesomes so you can't miss them. The 100 ohm resistors will be black and marked with a "101" and in the case of the two 20 ohm resistors they will be parallel to each other in relatively the same area and are marked "200". In parallel they measure 10 ohms. If you have any other type of sub like a Lifestyle 12, 20,25,30,25II,30II etc etc then they work entirely different from the AM15's and AM15P's. On the bottom side of the sub it should have a label that indicates the model like Acoustimass 25 for example. Without this bit of information first, I would be leading you down the proverbial garden path.
All chip resistors are soldered to the PC board. They are what is known as 'surface mount devices' meaning they have no wire leads to poke through holes and mount directly to the surface of a printed circuit board. They range in size from so small you have to view them with a magnifying glass to 1/2" long and 1/4" wide (and larger) depending on their application and wattage rating. The ones were speaking of here are about 3/16" by 1/8" and are 1/8 watt devices. All this is a moot point if you don't have one of these subs so let's get that determined before venturing on any further.
As far as paying for a chip resistor, just a stamped, self addressed envelope would be all I need. They are 'a dime a dozen' as the saying goes and I'll just return to you what you need in your envelope. That being said... first things first, referring to the last part of the first paragraph.} |
New member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 8
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 12:54 am: |
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May I offer some technical jargon to those Bose owners out there with lifestyle systems that refuse to power up and when checked have no apparent problem. You check the fuse and it's ok, nothing looks defective but it still has no sound. You may occasionally hear a very quick thump but that's all.
With units that use the CD5 head units, you will notice that at the console end of the connecting cable there are two RCA jacks and a phone jack with a tip and two rings. When you power up the console 12 volts is sent through the phone jack cable to the subwoofer turn on circuit via several surface mount capacitors and transistors. This initial pulse will fire the triac and the ac is applied to the power transformer, the power supplies in the amp portion (below the circuit board within the black metal heatsink) come on and send +12V and -12 volts to the top board. All of your amplifiers also come on at the same time. If there is a problem with any one of these amps (5 or 6 depending on the model) then they convey that condition to the top pc board in the form of a voltage. In turn this will cause a protection circuit to take over and will shut off the power supply to the sub and the original 12 volts supplied by the console keeps this protection system latched. This is done to prevent damage to both the subwoofer electronics and the internal speaker. Systems using the CD20 6 disc changer consoles also work in this manner except the cable is different. Oh, and by the way, the other ring on the phone jack cable carries digital information to control volume, muting and all other functions of the sub.
If this is the case then by all means you need to contact Bose and ship it to them for repair. I've read a good deal of "bad mouthing" about Bose and while I would never personally consider owning one myself, they are a very reputable and fair company to deal with. You won't get gouged like you could be at some mom and pop shop and you get what you pay for, it's fixed right and by people who know these systems inside and out.
Just my two cents worth on the matter. 8^) |
Gold Member Username: Nuck
Post Number: 7394
Registered: Dec-04
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| Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 06:21 am: |
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Mark, that much seems to be true, regarding Bose service. A goodly number of posters here have had great success and happy experiences with Bose service.
As far as owning one, well...
Good luck with your digit. |
New member Username: Tipitina
Post Number: 2
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 11:18 am: |
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Mark, it is an AM 15, sorry! It is the older model with the round hole in front not the square. Bose support told me it was AM 15 Series 1. Is this all of the info you need? Thanks so much for all of you help! This is so frustrating!@ |
New member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 9
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 11:51 am: |
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Triptina... that will work. If you can hold out till Tuesday I will be back in the office and will pull the schematic on that model and make sure I give you the correct info. I'll Xerox the page to show you exactly where to look and what to use to repair it. Yes folks, I have access to all Bose schematics but it IS as Bose says, proprietary information and I can't be providing them to the general public out of respect of our commitment to the Bose Corporation. I can help you from this end with specific info but not prints. |
New member Username: Tipitina
Post Number: 3
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2007 - 01:11 pm: |
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Let me know!
Thanks |
New member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 10
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2007 - 09:16 pm: |
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OK Triptina, in your case with a series one AM15 what you will be looking for is actually a 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. It is on top of the board right behind where the 5 wire connector coming from the transformer is attached. It will have "100" marked in white letters if is the chip type or will have brown/black/black/gold bands on it if is of the carbon axial lead type. you can purchase one locally if you have a Radio shack handy in your area. This resistor is part of the network used to fire the triac to turn on the power transformer. It is very common for this resistor to fail. The fuse should look OK. |
Gold Member Username: Nuck
Post Number: 7432
Registered: Dec-04
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2007 - 10:02 pm: |
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Priceless, Mark. |
New member Username: Tipitina
Post Number: 4
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 11:54 pm: |
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Fuse does look okay. I am going to Jamaica next week(hopefully, if I get passport......) so it will be a couple weeks, THANKS A LOT MARK!!! Will update ya after I check it out. |
New member Username: Forrestmcd
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-07
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| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2007 - 03:09 pm: |
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I have an AM15 series II but I'm missing the input cable. I want to make up my own cable but I am in need of the pinouts of the DB15 connector. Can anyone help? |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 11
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2007 - 08:36 pm: |
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Forrestmod...
If I had opened my email this morning I could have helped you tonight but alas I was running late and left before checking. If you can hold out till Monday evening I will get the pinouts for you for the cable. I have the manuals with that info in them. That cable is also available from Bose if you want to order one. I will get you the part number also just in case you run into problems. |
New member Username: Forrestmcd
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jun-07
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| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2007 - 11:58 pm: |
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Thank you Mark...
Monday or any day next week will be fine. I just hate to spend the money on a "Bose" input cable when I can easily make up my own cable. I just need the pinouts. |
Gold Member Username: Nuck
Post Number: 7534
Registered: Dec-04
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| Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 08:29 am: |
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Mark, if you are not the employee of the month at work, you are member of the month here!
Thank You |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 12
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 12:24 pm: |
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Nuck, funny you should say that about employee of the month. I suppose I will be from now on by default since our service center staff has been depleted from 18 to the current 4! I am the last man standing as far as the technical aspect of the center. Currently the service center consists of a Regional Director, Service Manager, Narda claims adjuster/parts room supervisor/product manager/shipping agent (she wears many hats during the day), and myself. I am doing all the electronic repairs consisting of any and all consumer audio and video (I DON'T DO TV's). All this reduction in staffing took place in less than 2 months and the work load at this time is overwhelming. The company I work for is (was) all over the country with the main offices located in Canton Mass. but due to circumstances that we as "peons" had no control over, the powers that be have seen fit to lay off literally hundreds of employees, closed countless retail operations and is struggling for it's very existance at this time. I have agreed to stay on until some other arrangements can be made for the service work to be shipped elsewhere in the company. At that time I too will become "unemployed" but free to do what I really love doing and that is writing "Flash" code, PHP and related programming. Not to mention, instead of the daily round trip of 72 miles to and from work (at todays gas prices) all I will have to do is walk the 15 or so feet from the bedroom to the computer. 8^)
What I do on this forum is simply a product of my own personal attitude about "helping" and 40+ years of serving the general public in matters relating to electronics. My gratification comes in the form of the personal satisfaction of having helped someone solve a problem. I do hope that what I do in some small way plants a seed for the concept of "pay it forward" in those who would receive that help and maybe those who only read about it.
Good grief, I sound like I'm preaching from a soap box. (Actually I'm just having fun!!) :-) |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 13
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 09:05 pm: |
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Forrestmod...
Sorry about the delay in getting this to you but the chaos where I am working is out of hand. I will send you the .pdf sheet showing you the pinout of the DB15 input side of the cable. This pinout is the pc mounted mate for the cable you wish to build yourself. Make sure of the pin numbers by looking at both the female cable you are building and the male connector on the sub. The pin numbers may be reversed on the cable you are trying to make ie. pin 1 may be pin 15 on the input. The pinouts on the .pdf are at the bottom right and ignore pins 16 and 17 as they are grounds and not actually part of the connector itself. Again, sorry for the delay and hope this helps you get the beast going. |
New member Username: Fwt
Phoenix,
AZ
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-07
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| Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 07:04 am: |
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Hey Mark,
Sorry about your downsizing problems, gone through a few of those myself.
Off the topic of the Subwoofers but I have a P1 LCD Touchscreen Remote Control that the EL Panel has gone dead in.
Do you know how and where to purchase a replacement part? The power inverter seems to be working just the EL is only glowing in about a 2" area.
Thanks in advance for any help as this remote is no longer available and the Lifestyle 50 is not compatable with any of the other remotes.
Best Regards,
Frank |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 14
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 07:28 pm: |
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Frank,
Actually I have never seen a lifestyle 50 system so I will have to go to the website and get the information you are seeking. I don't know that we ever carried them but the scoop on them is available. I will check in the morning when I get to the office and will post tomorrow night with particulars. Hang in there...
Mark B. |
New member Username: Fwt
Phoenix,
AZ
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jun-07
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| Posted on Monday, June 25, 2007 - 05:58 pm: |
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Thanks Mark,
Hope all's well with you!
Frank |
New member Username: Eric_34
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-07
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| Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2007 - 11:43 am: |
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Hi Mark,
First of all,thank you for the great tips you're giving to all the guys. I have an AM 10 Series IV system and the power transformer burned. I'd like to know the output voltages to replace it. Thanks a lot. Have a great day. Eric, Montpellier France.
http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=1&post=1185309#POST1185309 |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 15
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2007 - 06:12 pm: |
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