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Author Thread: Unpowered subwoofer
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New member
Username: Capote1

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-07
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Have a unpowered subwoofer "DAK" about 10 years old in large enclosure or box, had to change subwoofer because of rot by the way this was a 15", bought another same size but with only positive and negative connections. Original had four positive connection two from amplifier left and right and two to speaker left and right. I was only using the left from amplifier. there is a control panel in the enclosure or box for the wire connections , my question is how do I connect the new speaker using the positive and negative connections on the new subwoofer I have no negative wire going from panel to subwoofer.
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Username: Pierre1958

Post Number: 6
Registered: Oct-07
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If it were me, I'd combine the stereo signal from the receiver to the subwoofer by running a pair of speaker wires from the regular speaker outputs to the subwoofer twisting only their subwoofer ends together plus on plus and minus on minus and plugging those combined ends into the correct +/- inputs of the subwoofer. This makes the stereo signal mono as it enters the subwoofer.

Then to also run the stereo speakers, at the receiver end I would use the regular pair of speaker wires to run the speakers from their normal receiver speaker outputs.

"But the subwoofer is already plugged into those," you would ask me.

Just twist their ends together with the ends of the pair of wires already plugged into the receiver and plug them in together.

I would try it, but don't sue me if it blows up your system. I don't think it will, because I believe the high-level speaker signal is output - meaning it pumps out current like a water pump would pump water into pipes, whether combined or split. The current will run under pressure one way to the subwoofer and speakers, and it is not running back into the receiver, because 1) the receiver end is pumping OUT and 2) the speakers act like open ends in the pipe, areas of low pressure from which the signal escapes in the form of sound.

And don't worry about the cost of the extra wire. Regular 12-gauge twisted copper electrical wire is for all practical purposes as good for connecting speakers as speaker wire costing hundreds of times more - even in the most costly audiophile equipment. The foolishness of those who fall for the corporate marketing of exorbitantly priced wiring is much more than a whole subject on its own. It overlaps with all kinds of psychological and social inclinations in the human animal. Just make sure your connections at the components are tight.

The truth is that with 12-gauge electrical wire your receiver can pump high-level speaker current the length of your house and back without human-detectable weakening of the signal (or drop-off in the volume or quality coming out of the speaker).

I'm not saying your speakers are not going to sound slightly different than running by themselves without the subwoofer, but you're not going to be able to hear that, given the added low-frequency performance of the subwoofer. I believe the difference in measured speaker performance would be on par with your previous more conventional wiring setup with the subwoofer you have replaced.
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Gold Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 9029
Registered: Dec-04
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PR, I just really don't know where to start to answer that post.
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Username: Pierre1958

Post Number: 7
Registered: Oct-07
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Why, Nuck? Summarize.
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New member
Username: Capote1

Post Number: 2
Registered: Oct-07
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I'm trying to send you images of the control panel on my subwoofer box, but my pictures exceeds the 600 by 600 size how do I reduce the image? it will make more cense with images.
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Username: Pierre1958

Post Number: 8
Registered: Oct-07
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I mean it is only a matter of priority at what level we enjoy audio. It can be enjoyed with a $10 radio.
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New member
Username: Capote1

Post Number: 3
Registered: Oct-07
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Don't forget I already have a amplifier connected sorround receiver, so all of the wires to the speakers are coming out of the amplifier.
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New member
Username: Pierre1958

Post Number: 9
Registered: Oct-07
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Try the "Paint" program in MS Windows. It is part of the accessories included with Windows. In the top menu click "Image" and then in the drop-down menu click "Resize/skew." Resize to under 600 x 600. Then click on "Save As" under "File" on the top menu.
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New member
Username: Capote1

Post Number: 4
Registered: Oct-07
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Hope this work, as you can see that is my control panel front and back and as I said before the even do there is negative and positive connections on the panel wires on the back are only coming from the positive end on the sideUpload
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New member
Username: Capote1

Post Number: 5
Registered: Oct-07
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the front of the panel the upper left connection is from amplifier left, as you can see the wire going into it. the upper right is from amplifier right. The bottom connection is to speaker left and to speaker right, I will send you a picture of the old amplifier.
on the back of the panel you will notice 2 condensers and I supose cilindrical
coils.
Here is a copy of the subwoofer I marked the color of the wires as to where they were connected on the subwoofer.
Upload
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New member
Username: Pierre1958

Post Number: 10
Registered: Oct-07
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I don't know what the top photo is so I don't think I could help you. I'm looking forward to Nuck's answer.
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New member
Username: Capote1

Post Number: 6
Registered: Oct-07
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on the top photo or the back of the panel is it posible that the coper coil is the ground or negative wire which stops right there in other words it does not go thru to the speaker, as you will notice the red, blue, yellow and black wires are all conected to the positive side of the panel.
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Gold Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 9030
Registered: Dec-04
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Far as I can tell, the sub is a dual coil design.
The extra connections are XO outputs for the stereo mains, using the XO for frequency control.

Ideally, the new sub will have its own amp, and the mains pair will have its own amp as well, controlling frequency in any number of ways.
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