Archive through January 08, 2007

Gold Member

Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9461
Registered: May-04

Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 10:05 pm:

.

"Item Features and Specification

THIS AMPLIFIER CAN BRING YOU TO A PROFESSIONAL LEVEL OF MUSIC-FIELD!!! THE QUALITY DEFINITELY CAN COMPARE TO 845!! WHAT CAN I SAY MORE??? I THINK NONE OF ANY ADJECTIVE IS GOOD ENOUGH TO DESCRIBE IT!!! YOU WANT IT?? YOU WANT THIS WONDERFUL shining thing put it in you house to show your friends how the music is????"

'Nuff said. You already have one of these.

John A.

Gold Member

Username: John_a

London
U.K.

Post Number: 4598
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 03:08 am:

And that was "The item specifics in the original language".

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4864
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 06:52 pm:

I know. It's hilarious. But the cheap little one is ok by me.

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA

Post Number: 1096
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Friday, December 15, 2006 - 02:35 pm:

Good day folks

Gold Member

Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9473
Registered: May-04

Posted on Friday, December 15, 2006 - 02:51 pm:

.

Hello, JC.

M.R.

Silver Member

Username: My_rantz

Australia

Post Number: 978
Registered: Nov-05

Posted on Friday, December 15, 2006 - 08:27 pm:

It must be getting close to Christmas.

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA

Post Number: 1098
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Friday, December 15, 2006 - 10:45 pm:

How are you Jan? Still around these parts spreading knowledge I see.

Gold Member

Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9476
Registered: May-04

Posted on Friday, December 15, 2006 - 11:44 pm:

.

Still around at least.

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA

Post Number: 1099
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 04:09 pm:

Has anyone tried the diamond bottom Telefunken? If so , worth 79 bucks a pop (12ax7)??

Gold Member

Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9480
Registered: May-04

Posted on Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 09:21 pm:

.

I've never found a tube that was worth $79 @.

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA

Post Number: 1101
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 12:39 am:

I bought some used US tubes for pretty cheap (no specific name brand) and they sound better than any new Russian or other new tube. Just wondering if you guys have any recommendations on a 12ax7 tube for less than $100 each (preferably much less) that is a good all round tube. By that I mean great soundstage, good with most "calm" music and doesn't really have any hot spots. Tall order I know, but I have been through ALL current production tubes and still have not found a pair up to the used no name domestic pair.

Gold Member

Username: Kegger

Warren, MICHIGAN

Post Number: 2747
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 03:35 am:

Try pretty much any 5751 and you just may be very very happy with the results.
(nos of'course, some are better then others like RCA triple mica BP)

Otherwise the RCA's will give you the best bang for the buck in 12ax7 territory.
My favorite 12ax7's are amperex but in most circuits the 5751 is still a better tube.

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4888
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 08:32 am:

Without trying to break up the theme, how do I know if my tube amp can support various other types of tubes?
Are there specific voltage measurements to be taken?
The small 18w is great so far with the Chinese E84's and 6N3's, but I want to know which tubes to watch for if I see them cheap.

Gold Member

Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9481
Registered: May-04

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 01:00 pm:

.

Kegger may have more input here but his suggestion to move from a 12AX7 to a 5751 is moving from a consumer tube to a military spec tube. Such substituions are covered in any tube substituion manual which will also give you numbers for the comparable European tube types. Tube manuals are available from multiple sources though most are literally too comprehensive for the average consumer. What you can find on the internet will normally suffice for the needs of most audiophiles who deal with a limited number of audio tubes. Cruise through this often cited reference to find substitution manuals and guides; http://www.worldtubeaudio.com/

Not to disagree with Kegger, we all hear what we hear, but I have stated several times I don't really share the joy of tube rolling that others seem to appreciate. Buying 5751's rather than AX7's is as much a crap shoot as buying any other tube as far as I am concerned. Many buyers like the idea of military tubes, thinking they were manufactured to a higher or tighter specification than consumer tubes of the same era. While that may be true in many cases, you would have to know what the spec for the tube was before you decided it was a good choice. If the tube was meant for harsh conditions, it might have sacrificed some sound quality over reliability. If the tube was meant for low microphonics, it might have sacrificed some sound quality over the ability to remain quiet while artillery shells were fired at close range to the transmitter. Vice versa, if the tube was intended for optimum sonics, it might prove to be very microphonic as its intended installation point was sunk in several tons of cement. One military spec tube might have gold plated pins. But your amp has tinned socket receptacles. The two metals don't mate properly and the discontinuity of materials can possibly have adverse effects on the sound quality you achieve with that combination. In short, know what you are buying instead of just buying a number on a glass (or metal in some cases) enclosure.

JC - Just out of curiosity, if you've tried every current production tube (and I assume you've purchased multiples and not relied on the sound of one tube), how much money have you sunk into this experiment? Do you suppose you might have gained more by using that same amount of money to buy a better piece of gear to start with?

Nuck - You seem determined to put some other tube in your amp. Any particular reason?

I am a curmudgeon on this topic but all this tube chasing reminds me of a dog chasing its own tail.

.

Gold Member

Username: Kegger

Warren, MICHIGAN

Post Number: 2749
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 01:13 pm:

Actually Jan a 5751 is a completly different animal then a 12ax7 is.

Not just a militiry spec 12ax7.
There a lower gain, lower noise tube and made slightly different.

Trust me when I say this, allmosy any circuit will benefit from using ANY 5751 over ANY 12ax7.
That's the research conclusion I have come to. Just want to share the info.

Yes I am a tube roller, sometimes the differences are very subtle and sometimes they aint.

Gold Member

Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9486
Registered: May-04

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 02:39 pm:

.

Yes, Kegger, I understand a 5751 and a 12AX7 are not the same tube and I don't want to argue over semantics or numerics. But 5751 is a number given to designate a military spec tube and was based on the essential parameters of a 12 series consumer tube. And a 7025 and an ECC83 are different tubes that a 12AX7. They all can swap fairly easily with each other. If you want to, you can use a 12AU7 in place of the AX7 and then look at all the variants of that tube also. https://www.tubeworld.com/index_low.htm

Keeping in mind different tubes have different requirements for bias and plate voltage/current, putting a tube that should run a lower bias in a higher bias circuit, or vice versa, might not be the trade you really want. That so many audio components have enough slack in their operation to accept an easy substitution of all these tubes gives tube rollers plenty of latitude in what sound they can get out of their gear. But to what end? My point was just buying a number doesn't ensure success. Your experience tells you it will. My point was buying a 5751 still might not get the tube that benefits the circuit you have and sound you want. Along with the lower noise of the 5751 you will get lower gain. So, you run the circuit noise up to get sufficient gain from the lower noise tube. That may not be quite the tradeoff you want in some instances. Then again it might be as the tube is the active part of the circuit and will contribute more noise than a dozen resistors. Kind of depends on where the tube is in the circuit. Add a cathode follower and now that tube isn't seeing the voltage it expects. Without thinking about what you're doing to the circuit as a whole, I think you can get into a world of trying tubes just for the sake of trying tubes. If you're buying tubes at typical NOS prices, I still think you are better off upgrading the basic circuit by using the money for better gear.

There are plenty of options as far as tube construction and build within the 12AX7 alone to keep someone busy comparing tubes for many a long night's listening. Throwing in too may vairables is more than I want to deal with. For the most part, I find that subtle differences come from tubes that are close in their basic operational specs. Generally more distinct differences come from a tube that has wandered farther from the spec of the circuit you're running. And everything I know of in audio has a tradeoff for something else. And every tube has some distinct sound and one Telefunken or RCA isn't the same as another similarly branded tube. Debating black plates vs. diamond points is more than I care about. As I've said before, I'll give you one thing while I take away two others. But, that's me and others are free to spend their time and money as they choose.

I'm not discounting your knowledge, Kegger. You've had the opportunity to roll more tubes in more circuits than I will ever care to. And anyone interested in experimenting with tubes would be wise to listen to anyone who has bought out stocks of NOS tubes for the purpose of rolling tubes. JC sounds like he could benefit from your experience. I think you and I just differ philosophically about all this.

.

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4899
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 02:48 pm:

If y'all don't mind, I am gonna grab a beer and re-read the last series' of posts.
And maybe sommore.

Cheers!

Gold Member

Username: Kegger

Warren, MICHIGAN

Post Number: 2750
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 03:13 pm:

I was just commenting on the fact it sounded as if you were saying that
a 5751 was just a military spec version of a 12ax7 when it really isn't. :-)

That's all my point was. And I'm not a big fan of 12AX7's but like 5751's.

So if someone is into rolling and wants the best 12AX7 they can find I'm
going to suggest a 5751 everytime, may not allways be the best choice but
your chances for success are on a very high level so it's worth seeking them out.
There not a truly expensive tube either like a 12AX7 can be, not really a gamble. IMHO

That's all I meant by my post.
Cheers!

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA

Post Number: 1109
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 09:39 pm:

Wow, took a year off for bad behaviour and look what happens!!

Seriously though, I have got a pair of all the russian brand 12ax7 types except for EI, one pair of each only though. Never really gave too much though into spending money on two pair when I was mainly trying to see which ones I liked. As far as sinking more money into gear instead of tubes, I have spent maybe $20 bucks on all the tubes. Cannot see what type of upgrade can be made from the Jolida (significantly) without spending thousands. Seeme the higher up you go with this stuff(Moneywise) the less of a jump(qualitywise) is made each time. I will try those tubes (5751) because I do enjoy rolling. Even with the amateur setup and collection of tubes I have I really do notice subtle but rewarding nuances with most of the tubes I have. Just like moving speakers around for better soundstage/imaging, those differences add up. I can definitely see how upgrading the internals would make a difference, but the last time I checked the basic upgrade package (done by others) for my amp was $700. That's a heck of alot more than a pair of really good NOS tubes and all the tubes I currently have. Thank you for the advice (both of you).

Gold Member

Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9490
Registered: May-04

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 10:12 pm:

.

My comments were more generic about military spec tubes rather than speaking to any one particular tube. I've seen several people get involved in tube rolling and they began buying NOS mil spec tubes thinking they were getting better sounding tubes due to the tighter tolerances required for military use. In some cases they ended up with good tubes and in some cases they got something that wasn't what they were expecting. I had a friend send me some mil spec 6DJ8's to audition in my pre amp and they were one of the best sounding tubes I've used but they were so microphonic they drove me nuts trying to isloate the pre amp well enough to actually use them. As I said above, they were meant to be used in a very large, very heavy and very inert installation nowhere near any source of mechanical or airborne feedback, not in a little bitty pre amp a few feet from a speaker playing Lou Reed. Everyone should read my comments to mean I suggest you know what you are buying rather than just buying a number.

OK, now you've got me interested. Just what is it you hear in a 5751? How much less expensive are they than a 12AX7 (I've seen what I consider outrageous prices on NOS 12AX7's)? And, do you have six to loan out for an audition? The phase splitter and input tubes on my Mac's are so old I don't remember the last time I swapped them out.

.

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA

Post Number: 1115
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 10:42 pm:

Looks like at www.tubeworld.com I can get a pair of circa 1970-80's GE grey plate double mica (whatever the heck that means) for $55 a pair! Might have to give myself a christmas prezzie!!

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4919
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 10:45 pm:

JC, aren't NOS kind of dicey for the vintage?
I mean, have they been sitting beside the Layfayette and cared for as well?

Just kinda wondered. For the price, I might get them too if I were you!

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA

Post Number: 1116
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 11:22 pm:

Don't know much about how a tube needs to be stored. I suppose it's "cool dry place" like most other things. I do know that most of these retailers who sell NOS tubes have a reputation for selling good stuff and I feel confident buying product like that (non returnable as is kinda stuff).

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4925
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 11:29 pm:

A dealer friend suggested that NOS tubes are like old Dodge's. 'They don't go far, but they sure go fast'

Gold Member

Username: Kegger

Warren, MICHIGAN

Post Number: 2751
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 02:04 am:

"OK, now you've got me interested. Just what is it you hear in a 5751? How much less expensive are they than a 12AX7 (I've seen what I consider outrageous prices on NOS 12AX7's)? And, do you have six to loan out for an audition? The phase splitter and input tubes on my Mac's are so old I don't remember the last time I swapped them out."

(This isn't just a response to Jans question above but to the subject as a whole)
And yes I did ramble on a bit, :-)

I'll check and see what I have left. Quite a few of my better 12ax7 tubes and a few
5751's got sold to a local audio acquaintance for his phono stage plus his preamp
that runs 6dj8's and 12ax7's. I don't use many 12ax7's except in my own phono.
(I've since modded my phono to where it uses 1 12ax7 instead of 3)

I took over a bunch of tubes like the usual tellies, mullards, amperexes and whatnot
for him to tryout on his own, he was reluctant to try the 5751's in his preamp as he'd
been using some pretty expensive tellie 12ax7's he'd found very satisfying, so he tried
all the 12ax7's for a few month's and found combos that he found improved his system.

Seeing as though the 5751 is a little different then a 12ax7 he really didn't think they
should be used in a phono stage where gain and or riaa may be set by the tubes, so
he didn't give a lot of thought to the 5751, but after me suggesting "nicely" to at least
try them in the pre he did on his own then probably a few days later called to tell me
he wanted whatever 5751's I could spare and he was on the hunt for more.

He finally tried them in the phono stage with less then stellar performance, he had said
they sounded ok, and in some areas he thought there may have been an improvement
but also something not quite right. His phono stage uses I believe 10 tubes total with 2
of them being 6dj8's.

I have heard his system quite a bit and it is better sounding now by a wide margin with
the tube rolls he's done and what he's settled on. Not all his rolls or choices went the
way I have experienced on my systems and or gear I've tested out, but still within the
scope of what I have come to hear as being better sounding "to me".

As some people will tell you not every tube will sound the same on every system, not to
mention not everyone will agree what is best, so it is trial and "error" but the more time
you spend experimenting the better feel you get what things usually do. Also when you
look at the schematic for a certain piece may lend it'self to educated substitutions.

-------------------------------------------------

It's not so much what I find great in the 5751 as what I find not so great in most circuits
that use the 12ax7 and what I find is a grainy/haziness while at the same time lacking
detail plus a sense of air and somehow a lack of smoothness, I hesitate to use the term
"Blanket over my speakers" or "Veiling of the instruments" as it really is not that either
but a lack of detail and focus with somehow still being edgy and possibly irritative also.

I find the 5751 (IN MOST CASES) to be smoother then it's 12ax7 counterpart with better
detail and focus that generally does not get hard or edgy, I tend to like many other tubes
better but when the piece has to use a 12ax7 without being modded the 5751's an upgrade. IMHO

---------------------------------------------------

From a technical standpoint I don't build or rebuild something with the intent on using the
12ax7 or the 5751's for that matter as I find the gain not needed and feedback being used
to bring the gains back down most of the time anyway. Also there is a somewhat unwritten
rule to where a suggested plate load on a tube is in the neighborhood 5x the plate resistance
with the 12ax7's, 5751's having a pretty darn high plate resistance so at 5x for the load will
mean a power supply needed with some pretty large voltages to get some voltage to go past
that load to make it to the tube where there are plenty of good quality lowish plate resistance
tubes you can use a lower plate load on hence a lower voltage on your power supply. Most of
these lower plate resistance tubes don't have the demand of say the 12ax7 either so the cost
of such tubes is much lower which gives you choices of some of the premium grade ones while
not having to pay the premium grade price. :-)

--------------------------------------------------------

Now all this is my personal findings with testing and research, by no means do I think this is
set in stone or my way is definitely the right way, but when asked my philosophy this is it. :-)

--------------------------------------------------------

Also I do not spend the premium dollar on tubes, when there is a tube I'm after that I don't have
what I do is throw a bunch of cheap bids on tubes from ebay or whatnot and see what I land. I
have used this strategy to get some mighty fine tubes for some very exceptional prices. YMMV

----------------
In case anyone may have thought I took exception to anything said here I did not, just explaining
my way of doing/thinking what I have done and or do in my pursuit of good quality audio playback.

Gold Member

Username: Kegger

Warren, MICHIGAN

Post Number: 2752
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 02:18 am:

On a somewhat related note I feel very close to the same way about the 12au7's.

And if the piece of equipment can handle a little more heater current I use 12bh7's.

Gold Member

Username: Kegger

Warren, MICHIGAN

Post Number: 2753
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 02:34 am:

Nuck I believe the 5670 is a drop in replacement for the 6N3, plug and play. (not 100% sure though)
The data on that tube has 2 that come up, one says it's diode (but doesn't make sense)
and the other says a dual trode with specs of the 5670 with some sighting improvement.

The EL84 really has no substitute and as Rick has mentioned a mighty fine tube with
quite a loyal following, I would suggest after you get settled with the unit to search
out some mullard or sylvania EL84's (whatever you find the best price on) and try them.

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4930
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 10:05 am:

Another aside, how do we count run-in hours?
Simply powered up, or under load?

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4931
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 10:07 am:

The dealer is looking for syl or Phillips EL84's.
He is also looking for 5670's, no rush for either.

Thanks, folks.

Merry Christmas!

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4935
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 09:41 pm:

Also, I tried turning the amp up this morning, for the first time.
I have 0ver 100 hrs 'on' time on it now, so I cranked the knob to 80% and let it go with 'Hotel California" on file(EQ'd),and large.

Jan asked me in an e-mail'why do you want a small tube amp'? I got this for shites and giggles, but this little amp has balls.

The Ling singles are too close to the rear wall at 8", and are on spikes into small sheets of pine(hand chosen solid)which are tacked onto a very heavy pine work surface, 10'long and a 4' return.

This little kit(I always come back to little), is a smasher!

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4936
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 09:46 pm:

I wanna try some great all-round higher sensitivity speakers now.
Same size as the Ling.
Tim, are you there?

Gold Member

Username: Timn8ter

Seattle, WA
USA

Post Number: 1148
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Monday, December 18, 2006 - 10:58 pm:

Same size as in diameter or same (or close) cabinet size?

The similar sized full range drivers are not all that sensitive. In the "affordable and attainable" category would be Fostex. The FE126E is rated 93 db/w/m but should be horn loaded. The FE127E can be put into a small BR and is rated at 91 db/w/m.
The FE167E can be put into a small BR and is rated 94 db/w/m.
None of these drivers in a small BR is going to deliver the same bass response as Ling. The compromise made for higher efficiency is a lighter cone, lower strength motor and much less excursion. This means they require a larger cabinet such as a back loaded horn to deliver adequate bass response without sacrificing sensitivity.
Check out:

http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/rec_enc_1.shtml

Dave (Planet 10) and I have collaborated on some freely offered designs that you can read about here if you have a lot of time.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46934

Gold Member

Username: Kegger

Warren, MICHIGAN

Post Number: 2754
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Tuesday, December 19, 2006 - 12:14 am:

A nice alternitave to horn loading with a smaller cab is the passive radiator, I'm using
8inch utah full range whizzer cone drivers in what is essentially a large 3 way 12" cab
but not using the tweeter and using a 12" passive instead of a woofer with extremely
satisfying results. I get exceptional bass response, nice clean clear mids with decent
top end, may add a super tweeter later but at this point on a SET 300B amplifier don't
find I'm "yearning" for more top end but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt either.

While these cabs are still not small by no means they are still much smaller then most
horn loaded designs will be and to me it's easier to get the cab and passive to workout
satsifactorly then designing a horn. Nothing against horns nor do I think there a tough
design but the passive has been so simple in what I've experimented with.

Cheers!

Gold Member

Username: Timn8ter

Seattle, WA
USA

Post Number: 1150
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Tuesday, December 19, 2006 - 12:27 pm:

Sorry, "attainable" should read "obtainable" or at least "readily available".

There are exceptions out there in indivdual's collections and some made of "Unobtainium".

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4951
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 10:58 am:

The footprint, Tim.
Maybe I will link a pic and show you, even!

Gold Member

Username: Timn8ter

Seattle, WA
USA

Post Number: 1158
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 11:29 am:

One possibility is the Fostex FE127E in the recommended double bass reflex enclosure although it is still only 90db/w/m at best.
Just for fun you may want to try the Fostex FE167E in a small bass reflex box. Very easy to build and I think you might be able to get the drivers from Dave at Planet10 Hi-Fi in Victoria, B.C.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/
The cabinet tuning frequency is 51Hz but the F3 is 84Hz. This design is obviously intended to be used with a bass unit.
Really though, you already own the best full range single driver speaker in a small cabinet for the money, even if I do say so myself.
These are better;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-76241.html

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4956
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 11:35 am:

Those make greal cans.

I really would not go to anyone else for the speakers, Tim.

And knowing if you knew of something else yo would say so, then thanks.

I will post or send a pic later.

They can produce interesting waves in a hard room, and placed 6"from a rear wall.

Gold Member

Username: Timn8ter

Seattle, WA
USA

Post Number: 1159
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 11:53 am:

Thanks Nuck. I think this is a good example of the compromises made when it comes to speaker design. Many tube amp owners want affordable, small, full range, single driver, high sensitivity speakers but they simply don't exist. Not yet, at least. This then can lead to a compromise in amplifier design. The holy grail may be the SET but a good integrated push-pull running 30 to 40 watts/ch can produce wonderful sound and drive a large selection of speakers that are relatively small, affordable and well designed.

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4957
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 12:15 pm:

The amp is bit small, but very effective.

I had friends over and they marvelled at the speakers, well, and the tube amp. But they arent stereoheads. The waves could change with a small speaker move, and the dead spots are not in the Captains chair or Mrs. Nuck's spot, so who cares?

Oh, and I will have fries with the small package, full-range single with full bass and sparkling highs, at 93db, please.

And cheap.
In your spare time.
Put the Elve's to work.

Merry Christmas!

Gold Member

Username: Timn8ter

Seattle, WA
USA

Post Number: 1160
Registered: Dec-03

Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 12:59 pm:

Ho! Ho! Ho!

Upload

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4959
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 01:48 pm:

hehehe

Joseph Coulson

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA
USA

Post Number: 1156
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Friday, December 22, 2006 - 03:03 pm:

Kegger,
can you give me advice please. I was switching out tubes in the Jolida today and when I turned the amp back on it was staticy on one channel. After switcing the tubes around and out and back again I have come to the conclusion that it is a loose circuit inside the amp. Now I do know to wait a day before messing with the electronics inside. But I am pretty handy when it comes to soldering and the such and was wondering if because of heat or just age the connections , which may have been a poor solder in the first place, come loose. It seems to crackle when I tap the bias trim and also when i move the pre tube in it's socket. I think it's either the trim knob or some connection with the pre tube. What is the best way , other than soldering every joing in that area (that may be the best option, I don't know) , to find a loose solder joint. I do have a multimeter of course, but I do not have any other caps or replacement parts. I will not rebuild this thing but I have a feeling it's as simple as I described. Just needing some direction. Thanks, Joe.

Joseph Coulson

Gold Member

Username: Joe_c

Atlanta, GA
USA

Post Number: 1157
Registered: Mar-05

Posted on Friday, December 22, 2006 - 03:08 pm:

Correction, there is a popping sound when I tap the main board which the trim pot for the bias is on. It must be a loose connection because it pops loud when tapped. I do not want to damage my speakers so I am going to find a cheapie speaker around the house to use with fixing it(if that's what I need to do)

Gold Member

Username: Nuck

Post Number: 4986
Registered: Dec-04

Posted on Friday, December 22, 2006 - 05:20 pm:

That sounds like a better sacrifice, JC. Keep tapping and keep a hot iron. And a broad wick.