Home > Message Board > Home Audio > Amps > Archive through March 20, 2005 > Will a car amp work on a home stereo?
Main Topics Main Topics   Your Account Your Account Search Search   Help/Instructions Help
Today's Posts Today's Posts | Last 3 Days
Closed Closed: New threads not accepted on this page
  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through October 23, 2004awolfeman100 2004-10-23  18:03 ET
Archive through February 09, 2004Fuk-Nut100 2004-02-09  13:46 ET
 
Closed Closed: New threads not accepted on this page
     
Author Thread: Will a car amp work on a home stereo?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 307
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Put a volt meter (analog one works best not digital they are too slow) on the power wires on the amp and see if its actualy getting good power even during the time that it has a problem. The other thing to try is if you have a 1/8" headphone to RCA adaptor, use a portable cd player or walkman to test the amp (they offer good line-in/volume control).
Relevant Product Info
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

New member
Username: Brandon237

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-04
Edit Post

hey i have a 1200watt legacy car amp and i am wondering how to hook it up to my house amp and if there is a way if any one could tell me how what goes where it would be much appriciated thanks
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

awolfeman
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

Yeah, I checked the voltage with nothing attached...it has just over 10 volts... No wonder its going into protection. Why would it be that low? Im using 6 power supplies, all but one of which are identical.

Thank you again FryGuy for the help.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 308
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Let me guess that they are old AT power supplies?

If that’s the case some (most) needed a +5 volt load before they provide the full voltage and current to the +12 volt rail. Why they made it like this is not known to me. I got very lucky that my older AT power supplies didn't require a +5 volt load first. This is why that I would only recommend that people use a newer ATX power supply because of that problem.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

New member
Username: Myleftnut

Post Number: 2
Registered: Oct-04
Edit Post

i have a few AT power supplies that i cant get started.. i connect the 5v to the green wire (ps-on) i get no responce. i dont get it.. it has done this with 3 PSes.. please help
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

awolfeman
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

They are ATX power supplies actually.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 309
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

For one you tie the PS-ON to the ground to turn the PSU on. Secondly an old AT PSU may need to have a partially loaded +5 volt rail to get proper regulation on the +12 volt rail. What I’m saying is that even if you get the AT PSU running, you still may not be able to use it depending on how the PSU was designed. You’ll have to try it and if you got one that needs to have the +5 volt rail partially loaded you'll find that the +12 is only reading +8 to 10 volts. (NOTE: some old AT power supplies don’t have protection circuitry and will fry if turned on with no load). Because of these problems I only recommend using an newer ATX PSU for this use.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 311
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

I should have known it was an ATX when you asked how to turn it on with the PS-ON, only ATX have the PS-ON wire.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

New member
Username: Myleftnut

Post Number: 3
Registered: Oct-04
Edit Post

oh okay, well there do i get the 5v? from some other source, or the same one? because i have tried both and the fan only jerks but doesnt spin. fyi: i am hooking the green wire to the red wire which says is +5v.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 312
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

It is tied to the ground to turn it on not to the +5v rail.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

New member
Username: Myleftnut

Post Number: 4
Registered: Oct-04
Edit Post

i have tried that, maybe the PS is messed up, but thanks much anyways Fry. any help is greatly appreciated
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Unregistered guest
Edit Post

it is possible to hook up a car amp in your house hold take an adepter and cut off the tip splice so you have to wires and wire to the amp and a peice of wire for a ground so so fring your amp i did this at my friends house to his two 12's with an 800 watt amp and they pound like they did in the car but he crashed it. it will work!!!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1747
Registered: Dec-03
Edit Post

NO DO NOT LISTEN TO ANYONE WHO SAYS TO USE A WALLADAPTER
WITH THE ENDS CUTTOFF!

any descent car amp will fry the wall flug and can cause a fire!

get a real power supply or don't even do it at all!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 322
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

WTF is he talking about?

You most certainly can’t use a wall adapter to push that kind of power that’s needed for an amp. Your user name is cute but it should be "16 and have no clue what I’m talking about”.

The posts above and in the archive have covered just about everything. Please read the posts and learn before posting or you’ll get flamed to a slow humiliating death (Its happened to us all before).
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

CarGuy
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

People, I have used a car amp to power my sub. It works great as long as you can supply enough power to the amp. I find it cheaper than buying a powered sub for $600 at a stereo store. Just remember anything's possible as long as you know what you're doing! Ha ha...

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1753
Registered: Dec-03
Edit Post

carguy your absolutly right it's an amp just like any other amp.

but you have to use a correct power supply not a wallplug!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Warlord
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

If already posted... sorry, but about using a car bat in a house... it works, but not very good, this is what i am using right now, a cat bat with a 25 amp charger, say your car amplifier pulls 50 amps on a bass hit, the charger will give in its ~20-25 amps, and the bat will substitute the rest... cheap easy way to get car amp in house.. DOES NOT WORK WELL WITH VERY HIGH POWERED AMPS... try and stay under the 600 watt RMS range (around 50 amps 12VDC)

PROBLEM WITH THIS IS...

-batterie chargers are unstable and cause buzzing (to get rid of buzzing, take a wire and hook it to the ground terminal or your amp, and put it into the GROUND socket on a house plug... NOTE!!!! IF U DONT KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING DONT TRY THIS!!!)
-In your car, the batterie is running off the alternator, wich produces around 14 volts. A batterie on a charger will give out anywhere from 11 to 13 volts, most amps are rated for about 16 volts max, more volts you hammer in there, more the maximum output wattage will be affected, example, a 300 watt RMS amp on 12 volts will give out around 230 to 250 watts, on 14 volts, it will give out around 270-290 watts

-to control the volume of the amplifier, you will need to also run a car deck with it, OR if you have mixer borad with RCA outputs and inputs(my curent setup), either will work

BEST WAY TO POWER A CAR AMP IN HOUSE...

this will cost you some money, but if your one of those guys who dosnt want anythign elss but a car amp... here goes

find out house many amps your amplifier needs at maximum output, go to your local AC/DC shop and tell them you need a <###> amp at 14.5 VDC power suply. this will give you the best performance out of your amp.

prices...
looking to power a small amp ( under 250 watts RMS) simply buy a computer power suply and wire the yellow 12 volt and black ground to you amp.
to get it to turn on, find the big rectangle looking plug, take a small wire and put one end into the gree socket, and the other end into the black socket, this fools it to tunr on, thinking its running a computer.

your average computer power suply that will give out 25 amps 12VDC is around 100$CAD

36 amp 14VDC power suply from AC/DC shop - 350$

100 amp 14VDC power suply from AC/DC shop - 900$


hope this helps some people.
-
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Unregistered guest
Edit Post

So if i buy a PC power supply rated at:
- 1 x 12V at 20A

versus a PC power supply rated as having
- 2 x 12V at 10A

They would be the same so long as i run them parallel to my amp (rated at 20A max).

Thanks in advance!!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1777
Registered: Dec-03
Edit Post

Ken I'm not positive but I don't believe it would double for 20amp.

I think it will just give you two lines that share the same 10a 12 volt source!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 331
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

You need separate power supplies for that to work.

Paralleling doubles the current while keeping the voltage the same, same idea as paralleling batteries to get longer run time. When you hook in series you double the voltage and the current stays the same.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Unregistered guest
Edit Post

Well for one of the PS, it stated that there are two 12V rails, both are 10A each.

So again does that equal one 12V rail (at 20A)?

I'm guessing it doesnt.

If not, how would I go about getting 20A if the only PS's I have are less than that.

Thanks again guys!! :-)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 332
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

If it states that it has two distantly different +12 volt rails then yes it will be 20 amps if you parallel them together. I haven’t seen a regular run-of-the-mill PSU have two separate +12 volt rails. Is it a server PSU?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1779
Registered: Dec-03
Edit Post

like fryguy said if you have 2 power supplies that are
10a each then you use 2 power supplies with the + wires from the 2
tied together then the - 2 tied together will give you 20a
at 12 volts.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ken Solo
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

Well here is the link to a ps i can get for $71cdn+gst

http://mirror.memoryexpress.net/ProductDetail.php?DisplayProductID=4242

it shows two independant 12v rails.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 333
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Nice, I can't say i have ever seen one advertised before. Now I have.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bronze Member
Username: Romesaz

Ontario
Canada

Post Number: 18
Registered: Oct-04
Edit Post

But then again thats not your regular run of the mill PSU. I would have assumed regular-run-of-the-mill PSU to imply the crappy lil stock PSUs you get with the purchase of a crappy case.
Just my two cents.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Unregistered guest
Edit Post

I have a Power Acoustik Gothic OV2-1600 2 Channel Amplifier (Bridged Watts: 1600 x 2 - Bass Boost - 97 db Signal to Noise Ratio) and a Rockford Fosgate Power HX2 | RFR3110 10 Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil Subwoofer (2000W peak). What power supply must I buy for these to hook them up to a home receiver? 12V 3A or 12V 10A or what?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 359
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

The easy way to tell is to look at the fuse rating on the amp itself. I can tell you it WILL be a hell of alot more then 10 amps! It should be an 80 amp fuse if my guess is close.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Unregistered guest
Edit Post

well i was woundering the same on the sub in my room if i would be able to use a car amp to push it i didnt no if you could rig it up n e way so it would work thanks
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Unregistered guest
Edit Post

well i was woundering the same on the sub in my room if i would be able to use a car amp to push it i didnt no if you could rig it up n e way so it would work thanks
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

JoeyKidd
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

Fry Guy, if I put a 40 Amp power supply on it, will it still sound ok? The fuse rating is N/A on this amp.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

JoeyKidd
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

Or will it sound ok if I use a 600W computer power supply?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 363
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

You will need 80 amps at 12 volt total for the power supply if its an 1600 watt amp. If not it will cut out when you turn it up.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 364
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

A car amp will work fine with a house hold sub woofer but remember that if the amp is 100 watts that its 100 watts at 4 ohms so at 8 ohms (the normal house hold speaker is 8 ohms some are 16, 6 or 4 ohm also) its only 50 watts to the speaker. So you can power two house 8 ohm subs on a car amp paralleled with no problems.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Electronics
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

Im tryin 2 hook up my Alpine 300/watt car Amp and sub to my house... at the point i dont have alot of money 2 put into it... Would it be easier to use a car battey/Charger.. or a PC Power Supply???..And if i use the power supply.. do i hook 1 yellow to 12volts and one 2 the Remote? And the black to the ground on the back of the Amp? and then plug the Power Supply into the wall? help?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 383
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Forget using a battery and charger.

Reasons:
It’s not as safe.
Acid to spill and cause damage
Heavy and bulky
In efficient energy conversion
Batteries need replacement and are expensive
A large battery charger is expensive and heavy

All the basic instructions are in my document above in this posting.

The remote terminal on the amp is what turns the amp on. So even if you have the power to it you need the +12 volts to the remote (REM) terminal for the amp to be turned on.
(If you had an amp before I’m sure you know that)

The amp is most likely to be wired so its negative ground so the ground or black wire on the power supplies go to the negative or ground on the amp. (As for mostly all (99.9%) car electrical systems today)

If you have no money I can see why this would be appealing to you for a cheep alternative to a stereo system. But if you have no electrical experience and can not figure out the diagrams (I have in the document above in this forum) that I have made then this simple ATX PSU mod is NOT for you. (Save your money and get a real stereo, and/or gain the electrical knowledge and experience needed to do this mod)

This is because if you don't have the proper electrical knowledge you CAN damage your gear or cause a risk of shock or fire.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

just a person who needs advice
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

ok i want to power a amp 2x100 watts can i use a computer power suppl that at +12v 14 amps
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 395
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

That will be cutting it close for 200 watts if that’s the RMS rating of the AMP. I would give it a try the worse thing it can do is cut-out when you turn up the volume. This is because of over current from the AMP trying to draw more current then the PSU can supply when the volume is turned up.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

just a person who needs advice
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

how would i wire 2 up to it
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 398
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Link is above to my document on how its done.

And here if it works. http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/Using_an_ATX_computer_power_supply_to_ make_a_scalable_multipurpose_power_supply-75902.doc
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

just a person who needs advice
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

wich is better to use the BOUNCE-LESS or the alternitive method for powering it on
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

advice please
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

<marquee>hey</marquee>
on a car sterio is there inputs for other sources
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 434
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

The bounceless switch will be removed from the document as its not needed with the ATX spec now.
A simple switch will work for remote turn on of the power supply.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 435
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

advice please, depends on the head unit you have and what your using. You can use a mixer to use any input source to your amp (as long as you don't have speakers on the head unit).
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

New member
Username: Jermdog

Post Number: 9
Registered: Dec-04
Edit Post

To all of youwanting to hook up your car audio equipment at home... I did this stuff in the late 80's. Go get yourself a good power supply from a reputable manufaturer. Check out partsexpress.com. You will need something that is capable of delivering a good amount of current for a car amp.

To Steve-O: Your calculations on impedence are only half right. Series wiring does double the impedence in ohms. Parallel wiring does not halve the impedence as you suggest. Use the following formula for parallel wiring:

1/R(total resistance)= (1/R1)+ (1/R2)+(1/R3) etc... for the number of speakers.

1/4 + 1/8 convert to decimals
.25 + .125 = .375
1/.375 = 2.67 ohms

If you were to use your method, this would equal 6 ohms. The only time you can halve the impedence is when you are using two speakers wired in parallel that have the same resistance.

There are tons of impedence calculators available for anyone to use. Check out ohms law, and you'll find out most answers to most questions about car audio, voltage, current (amps) and resistance (impedence - ohms).
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

weedy22
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

I have been trying to hook up a Jensen amp using a computer power supply. I followed FryGuy's document and everything works for about 2 seconds and then shuts off. Does anyone know what may be wrong?

Here is the power supply I have.

http://www.pcimicro.com/.sc/ms/dd/1032987946/9/nc/ee/587/Achieve%5E2FViomax%20%2 0500w%20Power%20Supply%20w%5E2F%20Dual%20Fan%20New%20Retail%20Box

A Jensen LXA 300 watts w/25 amp fuse
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

weedy22
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

The computer PS runs fine until I connect one 12v wire to the REM on the amp? Then the PS shuts off.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 438
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Try another load like an standard 100 watt bulb (it will only glow). I suspect a wiring problem on the amp but its hard to say for sure what’s going on. If you have a volt-ohm meter that would help to trouble shoot what’s going on.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

weedy22
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

It doesn't light up a bulb, but it does turn a cooling fan.

I tried to use a volt meter like you suggested but it shorts out the power supply when connected.

Any more suggestions would be appreciated.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 442
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Send me some pictures if possible, something is seriously wrong.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

New member
Username: Johnny_budger

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-04
Edit Post

hey fry guy,if posible would u pleas tell me if thes one ideal that i just thought of would work to work a car amp to a home theather system.

hers the ideal,
to use a car batery and, use the positive side of the batery to connect to the amp positive, and the negative side of the batery to connect to the batery to the amp ground. then to short the amp remote with the positive feed.

so wut do u think?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia
Canada

Post Number: 447
Registered: Jun-04
Edit Post

Depends on what your purpose is for it. For a short term test its fine but for any duration or long term use it has serious problems.

A switch mode power supply is the way to go for long term use. Lower cost to maintain (no battery to replace or top up with water), light weight, more efficient power conversion (less wasted energy as heat), no dangerous acid to spill or dangerous sulphur and hydrogen gas to explode or cause a bad odour in your room.

A battery and a charger will not be cheaper to run. Also the cost won't be any cheaper (unless you don't need to buy the battery and charger).
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

TheMattMan
Unregistered guest
Edit Post

Hey i am completely lost when it comes to speakers. i was looking for some subwoofers to hook into my stereo.(its just a cheap 70 dollar system) and i found some really good speakers for a steal. but there car audio subs. they cost about $100 for a 1200w sub instead of $250 for a 200w home theater sub. i was wondering if it is possible or practical to get those speakers and posibly a car amp. or if i would need to upgrade my system just to be able to hook every thing up.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page&nbs