| Author |
Thread: How to DIY Repair a Bose Lifestyle 12 subwoofer |
    
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 30
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 11:16 am: |
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Stephen,
Yay! You are the first person I've heard from who actually has this problem. It is a known problem for the European version of the AM15. What is happening is the fuse is opening because of the onrush current when it's powered up. The fix for it is simply changing fuse types. The new fuse type has 3 times the onrush current handling capability than what you are probably currently using. Getting these particular fuses may be a problem but presumably you can get them from Bose. Here is the bulletin in a nutshell in quotes:
"Bulletin Part Number: 267216-B5
Product: AcoustimassŪ 15 Series II
Subject: Fuses blowing in 230V units.
Disposition: All
Symptom: Acoustimass 15 Series II is dead.
Reason: A large AC-inrush current upon turn on is blowing the fuse.
Solution: Replace existing fuse 177311-01250 (Littelfuse 218 series 1.25A) with 282594-1250 (Bel 5VT series
1.25A). Note: new fuse has 3 times higher I-squared-T rating."
The long numbers with the dash are the Bose part numbers. Good luck} |
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Relevant Product Info
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New member Username: Vespoli
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 04:15 pm: |
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Hey, I have a control pod for a Bose Companion 3 series 1 system that needs a new cable. I've taken the pod apart and it would be a simple swap out. Does anyone know if it's possible to get Bose to send repair parts and if so how to go about getting a part? I know Bose is very particular about getting you to send back in for repair but this fix could be really easy for me. thanks
Chris |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 31
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 08:18 pm: |
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Chris,
I know this isn't what you want to hear but there are no "repair parts" per se for the control pod. The control pod IS a part unto itself and is listed in the maunal as "non-repairable". You can order a new one from Bose and that part number is 307874-001 for the series one Companion 3 and 307874-002 for the series II. I'd be willing to bet if you could get a cable it would cost as much as the whole pod. If I remember correctly that cable has about 9 pins in it. |
New member Username: Olof
Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 04:59 am: |
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Hey everybody!
Iīm tangeling with getting my system to work correctly...
Ok, I was stupid enough to buy a separate set of 5.1 jewels (for the Lifestyle 48) and now I canīt get the sound that I want. I even bought a separate Acoustimass subwoofer but it sounds that the jewels is to high in treble, if I test the system only a bit over normal talking-volume it feels that my ears are going to fall off because of the high treble...
..what to do??? Iīm getting so frustrated that I feel like using my 5 jewels as paperweights in my future...
I also tested them with another subwoofer, but there was the same problem...
Is the jewelspeakers "higher" in treble than the other bose-satellites? I have listen to many demos of the bose-systems and they all sound so great, why canīt mine also do that??
My small satellites in my 2.1 creative-system (for 120$) connected to my computer sounds 100times better than the jewels...
Anyone? Any tip/info is good for me in this situation! |
New member Username: Pretenda
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 07:39 am: |
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Hi Mark / Everyone,
I have recently acquired an Acoustimass Powered Speaker System, and i am missing the 5 pin DIN to two RCA's and 3.5MM jack cable. I have all the connectors to wire this up, but I do not know what pin goes to where. I would much rather not have to buy the cable, I already have everything I need  Can anyone help me out here?
This is the unit I have:
http://products.bose.com/pdf/customer_service/owners/og_am5p.pdf
Cheers,
Matt |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 32
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 11:01 pm: |
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OK Matt, here's the scoop. On the sub side the pinout of the 5 pin din connector is as follows.
Pin 1: 12V to power sub. Connect to the tip of the 3.5mm plug.
Pin 2: Common for both right and left channel (-)
pin 3: Left signal (+) to tip of left RCA plug.
Pin 4: Chassis ground. Connect to shaft of 3.5mm plug.
Pin 5: Right signal (+) to tip of right RCA plug.
Do not connect the common for the two signals to ground in the cable. Use shielded wire for the signal connections and the 12V line. Good luck! |
New member Username: Pretenda
Sydney,
NSW
Australia
Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 02:25 am: |
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Mark you are an absolute legend! Thank you for this, I could not find it anywhere else on the net. Works like a charm! You saved me about $50 for this lead (ridiculous I know) Thanks again! |
New member Username: Mikkap
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 05:05 am: |
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Hi there....I know other people are experiencing the display problem with lifestyle 12 and the answer is change a capacitor. Please identify the exact location of this capacitor (33ufd @ 63vdc). The comment was on the left side of the top pc board. All that is on the left hand side is the actual display and further left the earphone board. Where should I be looking and is it possible to show a photo or diagram? Any help would be most appreciated. Regards Mike |
New member Username: Brownc
Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 07:04 am: |
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Mike,
If you read Mark's post above http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=1&post=1390678#POST1390678, you'll read that it's capacitor C19 (just below and left of the display). He suggested a 33ufd@25VDC, 33ufd@50VDC, or 47ufd@50VDC. My local Radio Shack didn't have those, so I tried a 47ufd@35VDC and it seems to be working fine. |
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New member Username: Mikkap
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 07:22 am: |
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Thanks Charlie.....don't know if my unit marketed in Australia is the same. There just isn't any capacitor in that location on that board....this is a series 2 lifestyle 12 and maybe that also is the reason for any changes. Regards Mike |
New member Username: Brownc
Post Number: 4
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 07:26 am: |
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Bummer...maybe you could post a picture? |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 33
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 11:15 am: |
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Mike,
You are correct in your assumtion that the part is in fact in a different location on the CD5VII consoles. In this version the cap in question is C17 and is located on the bottom board, front left hand side BUT... this will not solve your problem. A dim display is NOT the same as one that will not come on at all. That cap couples the AC voltage coming into your console to the filiment of the fluorescent display. There is also a -15 volts superimposed on this "filiment" supply that is used to develop the potential between the anodes and cathodes of the display elements. I suspect that -15V is not correct and has ripple in it and (this you're not going to like) the individual elements in the display "burn" if you will, and get very dim. Changing the filter caps on the -15V line might help some but at this point your display is for all intent and purposes "worn out". It will never be as bright as it once was and will appear "splotchy", meaning there will be bright spots and lots of dim ones. This is one that needs to be serviced and the display will have to be replaced and the power supplies refurbed. Sorry for the "bad news" Mike.
Please note; "Lifestyle" systems are just that... systems and they consist of individual components. When refering to any particular problem try to reference the components in question. For example in this case Mike has a Lifestyle 12 series two. It consists of the Acoustimass AM25II sub and the CD5V2 console (and all the little cubes, cables and such). The model numbers for consoles are on the bottom or back of most units and for the subs it is usually a foil sticker about 4" x 5" mounted on the bottom of the sub. I am going to try and attach a Word.rtf file to this which is a list of all the Bose system names, the media center type and the corresponding powered speaker. |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 34
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 11:19 am: |
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OK, let me try that again. |
New member Username: Luis_xc4
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 09:54 pm: |
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Mark, Great stuff posted in the board, thanks.
I have a lifestyle 5 with the display inop problem, I thought it could be the same fix as the ls 12, but doesn't look like. The lifestyle 5 has nothing on the lower left side of the display. Do you know which cap # (cxxx) is the one I should change to fix the problem on this LS5?
I didn't find the exact console number, nothing in the back, and on the bottom just says "lifestyle model 5 music center" and a little sticker with 2V and 193573 rev 06
thanks very much. |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 35
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 12:47 am: |
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Luis,
If you have a Lifestyle 5II or 5III then indeed you have the CD5V2 media center as the console portion of the package. The 2V on the bottom of the console indicates it is this version. See my post above as it references that exact unit. Your display problem very well mat not be replacing C17 on the lower board. |
New member Username: Guiambros
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 02:12 am: |
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hey mark and all,
do you have any idea how to open the subwoofer on the bose companion 3 series I (P/N 272079-001)?
I removed the 5 screws from the back, but now I'm stuck. Tried to remove the sticker, but there's just a metal round circle with two small holes and it don't move. Do I need to use any special tool to open it?
any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance!! |
New member Username: Luis_xc4
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 02:20 am: |
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Ups, actually the display began fading out a couple of months ago until it became totally dark. However all of the display elements are not working, if some are worn out shouldn't some (and mostly the ones I never use like the AM/FM) still work? Also if indeed I change C17, then anyhow you are saying that it will damage the display sooner or later because of the fault in the -15 voltage being sent to it?
thanks again. |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 36
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 09:32 am: |
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Luis and Mike,
Both of you try this and it should help you both get the best from what your display can deliver. Replace C17 (33ufd @ 63V),C12 (100ufd @ 25V), C15, (100ufd @ 25V) and C16 (either 220ufd or 100ufd @ 25V.) For C16 use the 220ufd if you have the European version of the CD5V2. All these caps are huddled near each other on the bottom board, left front quadrant. Once this is done all the supplies for the display portion of the system will be correct. Cross your fingers and best of luck. |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 37
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 09:48 am: |
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Guilherme,
The dead giveaway here is that you removed 5 screws... there are 8. You need to remove the volume knob and VERY CAREFULLY remove the label that runs vertically (yes the entire label). Behind the label you will find three more screws that need to be removed before you can open it up. Use double sticky tape to remount the label when you're finished mucking about inside and have reassembled the cabinet. |
New member Username: Guiambros
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 03:48 pm: |
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bingo! thanks a lot, mark. Yes, there was other 5 screws behind the label, besides the other 5 outside. Total 10 screws on Companion 3 Series I, plus the knob.
any idea how much would cost the PN 280066-001 (or with the full internal circuitry of the subwoofer) and how can I order it from bose? my left channel is not working, even though the soundcard/cable/speakers are all fine.
any ideas to troubleshoot the card without the schematics?
thanks a lot, and you rock man!
best,
gui |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 38
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 09:20 pm: |
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Gui,
No, no ideas on how to do that without prints. So why try to troubleshoot without them? If you will email me I will send you the ske's and the board layouts in .pdf format. |
New member Username: Luis_xc4
Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 11:30 pm: |
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Mark,
THANK YOU!
I changed the 4 caps, and the display is alive again.
best regards. |
New member Username: Pretenda
Sydney,
NSW
Australia
Post Number: 4
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 05:43 am: |
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Mark,
Thanks for your help before. I have another question for the master! I have a Bose Freespace Business Music System (stereo), which comes with 4 cubes - each has its own input in the unit. When I attempt to remove two from the system, I no longer get any sound. (I don't want them on this system anymore) Is it OK to bridge these terminals to have sound only come out of two of the speakers or will I run into problems?
Cheers,
Matt |
New member Username: Unclewayne
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 04:50 pm: |
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does anyone know how to take apart the 321 speaker? please help! |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 39
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 08:23 pm: |
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Wayne,
If you're trying to get at the actual speaker then forget it. It's a sealed cabinet and must be dismantled and then all glued back together again after speaker is replaced or baffle reglued etc. Getting at the amp portion is easy enough by removing the appropriate screws from the back. Hope this answers your question. |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 40
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 09:01 pm: |
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Matt,
Your system has two seperate amplifiers in it for right and left output but two speakers per channel and they are internally wired in series. This is why you get no sound at all by removing one from each channel. The amps are rated at 50 watts for the satellites and the impedance of the sat's is 4 ohms. You may install a 4 ohm resistor (rated for at least 30 watts depending on how loud you listen to it) in place of the removed speaker but don't just jump the two vacated pins as this could be potentially harmful to the amplifiers. |
New member Username: Jksmeko
Russell,
KY
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 09:25 pm: |
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Mark
Acoustimass 7 sats work fine bass very weak to no power any thoughts on repair? fuse looks ok do you think it could me the 100 resistor? |
New member Username: Mattp35
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 02:24 am: |
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I have a bose acoustimass Multimedia speaker system. While the music is playing, all of a sudden the powered base module will shut off. To turn it back on, I have to turn the power off and turn it back on. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it |
New member Username: Hdh
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 11:45 pm: |
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Mark,
I have an Acoustimass 25 with the symptoms that point toward replacing CR400. Can you give me the Bose part number for this 400MHz crystal or where else I can buy one? Thanks for your help and I'm still amazed at your knowledge of all these Bose systems. |
New member Username: Nrsesh
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Sunday, January 20, 2008 - 12:37 am: |
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Mark,
I have Acoustimass 15. Worked fine for last 6 years. Sub woofer seems to be not working as there is no Bass or the real effect of the home theater system.
I have no idea why it is not working. Appreciate your help in fixing this please.
Thanks for your help.
Ram |
New member Username: Dfranco
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Monday, January 21, 2008 - 12:48 am: |
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Hi Mark
Someone gave me a Bose Subwoofer and I had access to the Box as explained on this thread on May 15 2007. I just only want to use the amplifying board and I will need some help with the electronics.
The Board has 5 TDA7294 IC's and some TIP142 and TIP147 Transistors. It seems to be that the Subwoofer speaker is driven by 4 transistors (2xTip142 and 2xTIP147) and the others speakers by the TDA's. The PCB has a flat 18 pin connector used for control and input signals, but unfortunately I don't have the pinout and haven't been able to power up the amplifiers. I have the TDA's datasheet and could find that they have Standby and mute control pins. Fortunatelly I followed the pcb's tracks and could identify the control pins on the 18 pin connector for the TDA's. At this stage I have some pins identified, but I will need help to identify the rest of the pins, they are as follow:
18 pin connector:
PCB Ground (-): Pin1,Pin11, Pin15, Pin17
Mute/Standby control for TDA's : Pin2, Pin3, Pin4
(Voltaje level???)
Pin 2 controls 2 TDA's
Pin 3 controls 1 TDA
Pin 4 controls 2 TDA's
Unfortunately I haven't identify the rest of the pins, there are too many additional transistors and SMD components, which makes it very difficult to follow. I suppose the Subwoofer speaker amplifier (driven by 4 TIP Transistors) must have a standbay and mute control as the TDA's. I will need to identify the signal inputs for the amplifiers as well. I would appreciate if someone can help me identifying the rest of the pins for the 18 pin connector or if anyone has the pin out for this board.
Thank you very much for your help
Dorian F |
New member Username: Pete4kof
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 05:54 am: |
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could any one give me some information on where i can purchase a glass fuse for acoustimass 3 series 1v speaker system or give me a idea of a replacement available..these speakers are a few years old and always been loyal until a positive was put to the negative by wife lol..there is no marking on the fuse and no one have been able to help other than bose who want Ģ130 just to look before repair....i am based in england any information would be grateful |
New member Username: Showpiecerodent
Sutton Coldfield,
West Midlands
UK
Post Number: 3
Registered: Dec-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 07:34 am: |
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Peter. See my last entry above and Mark's reply, 2 below it. (Thanks again Mark) My unit is a series 3 AM15 and I have replaced the fuse at least 10 times. Make sure you rplace it with an identically rated fuse and make sure if it is a time lag fuse (shown by a T), that you replace it with the same. Good luck. |
New member Username: Kimba07
Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 07:34 am: |
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Damn,
Took my non-functioning Acoustimass from Bose service centre just the other day re: after 1 month sitting at the service centre due to holiday seasons!!!! Technician said "You better off getting a new Acoustimass and it costs over AUD1k." I said "Forget it mate!". He still charged me AUD44.00 for dismantling and assembled it back to its non-fucntioning condition. No brownie points earned there for sure. 5 freaking weeks later, left with the same problem. |
New member Username: Pete4kof
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 08:27 am: |
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stephen thanks for advice i only live up road from you. can you tell me where to pick these fuses up from tried loads of places and struggling to find them..
kim foo sorry to hear your having problems to .thanks for your reply mate |
New member Username: Showpiecerodent
Sutton Coldfield,
West Midlands
UK
Post Number: 4
Registered: Dec-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 08:58 am: |
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Peter. I am awaiting a reply from my Bose dealer. As soon as I am able to get the ones Mark recommended then I will let you know. ...or you can contact then yourself on 0121 3213000 but you may be back into the realm of Ģ130 fee. The fuses I have been using so far are 1.25 Amp Time Lag - the same that was in the unit when I got it - but beware - my system is series 3, yours is 4? and they may be different fuses. Are you sure it is unmarked? It may look unmarked but if you look close enough, you should see markings around the end caps. I can't imagine anyone making a fuse without a rating on it. Anyway, I got my fuses from Maplins in Erdington. Regards, Steve. |
New member Username: Olof
Post Number: 4
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 03:17 pm: |
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Hi again!
Doesnīt anyone have the jewelcubes? Do they play "sharper" than other bose-cubes? I canīt get mine to play with good sound even if I have a acoustimass 5 subwoofer. It feels like my jewels only delivers treble??
Please dudes, help me out here!!
regards
olof |
New member Username: Mmacmobile
Mobile,
Alabama
Mobile
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 09:21 am: |
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Mark: Thanks for the past postings on the display fix for the LS 12 system. I have been using my system without the benefit of that display for a few years after an Atlanta authorized repair center told me it would be $100 to replace a faulty component. I bought the schematics but never got around to troubleshooting it. Is there any trick to opening the case to get to the CCB with the open C19? |
New member Username: Mmacmobile
Mobile,
Alabama
Mobile
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Friday, January 25, 2008 - 09:24 am: |
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Again, thanks to Mark and those who asked the question about the same problem I had with an inop display. Popped the lid, replaced the cap and voila', I have lighted segments! I can now see what I am doing and it is like having a new system to play with. All for about 10 minutes on this forum, 15 minutes of repair work, and 25 cents for the component...instead of $100 and shipping costs for the authorized repair station(not to mention the delay in getting it back); now was that a good deal or what? Roll Tide! |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 41
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Friday, January 25, 2008 - 07:54 pm: |
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Mathew Pant,
I need to know the model number of your Acoustimass speaker in order to help you. Sounds like an AM25II or AM30II but....?
Ram Prasad,
Your problem is probably one or two open chip resistors on the top board inside the subwoofer.
If the fuse is not blown and it still won't power up then this is most likely the problem. The two resistors in question are visible on the PC board. They are chip resistors, mounted side by side and will be marked "200" in small white letters. The "200" means "20" with "0" order of magnitude or 20 ohms each. They are paralleled which makes the resistance = 10 ohms. Replace them with a single 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistor available from Radio Shack.
Dorian,
I responded to you in an email but haven't heard back from you. ???
Peter Prime,
The fuses YOU are looking for are 1.5 amp slo-blo, (5x20mm). The fuses Stephen is waiting on are only 1.25 amp so you might rethink your approach.
Michael MacIver,
There are 5 screws in the back of the CD5 unit. You will see also 5 slots in the back of the unit. while prying up slightly on the back left corner, insert a small flat head screwdriver in the leftmost slot. What you are doing is releasing a plastic catch holding the top in place. After releasing (or breaking) the first tab, move on to the next and so on. Please note: there are two halves to the top panel. Remove the left side first and then the cover over the CD player. Having never done this before you will no doubt break one or more of the little plastic tabs but don't panic, it won't hurt anything (except the defenseless plastic tabs) and the screws secure the top anyway. I've opened hundreds of these things and I still break a tab now and then.
Olof,
Last but not least... I really don't know what to tell you. I can fix the electronics but the subjective audio aspects of the speakers is out of my realm of expertise. Sorry I can't help here. |
New member Username: Dfranco
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 12:38 am: |
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Hello Mark,
I just sent you an e- mail, thank you |
New member Username: Zqsus
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 04:08 am: |
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Hi Dorian,
I wonder if you can share the information Mark sent to you. I have the same questions, and I have been waiting for the answers from Mark in the past week. But since he only responded to you privately, can I have the answers too? I appreciate it. The sub-woofer I have is an AM 25, it has the same 18 pin connector I believe.
zqsus@yahoo.com
Hi Mark,
Thank you very much for your great posts. I hope you don't mind I asked Dorian for the information. I know you have been helping lots of people and may get lots of emails. I just do not want you to repeat your work, so I am asking Dorian to pass it on. |
New member Username: Dfranco
Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 09:10 am: |
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Hi Pat,
Tomorrow morning I will post or send you an e-mail of what I found experimenting my self. Will be a pleasure.
Good night |
New member Username: Vanhootz
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 12:15 am: |
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PLEASE HELP!
Surround mode not working on
Acoustimass 25 series ll lifestyle 5 amp 
I recently changed the fuse (3amp 250 volt slowblow fuse) in the sub as it was blown (i could easily see it)...
That enabled my system to work in stereo & stereo with
center mode...Hoorah!
I have tested the surround speakers in the regular left & right outputs & the speakers do work just not in the surround outputs
Is there another fuse i have to replace to enable surround mode?
Thank you so much for any input you can offer... |
New member Username: Zqsus
Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 02:24 am: |
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Bose AM25II possibly fixed!!
Dear Mark,
This is Pat. Thank you for your help!! Short story: I found the U200 is holding the reset signal (low) for U202, so there was something wrong. Then I noticed the 40Mhz crystal is burned. Then I remembered your first one or two posts........ I wish I had read your post more carefully.... I am going to get the crystal since I have the part number already. When it is fixed, I will post it and send you a bottle of wine
Have a good day. Your help means a lot to me. |
Bronze Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 42
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 08:07 am: |
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Glen,
Your AM25II can operate in 3 modes. Stereo, 3-channel (Rt & Lft front + center) and surround. In surround mode there is a seperate volume control on your remote for the rear channels (surround) and I suspect that volume is turned all the way down. I can think of no senario where you can have 3 of 5 channels working on an AM25II and have it be an electronic "problem". Put the system into 5 speaker mode, set a reasonable listening level with the main volume control and then try turning up the surround volume. |
New member Username: Vanhootz
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-08
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| Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 10:54 am: |
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Hi Mark,
Thank you very much...it works
Initially i was turning the surround volume |
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