| Author |
Thread: How to DIY Repair a Bose Lifestyle 12 subwoofer |
    
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 138
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, January 19, 2009 - 06:42 pm: |
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Mark,
I'm betting the sub you have is an AM10 and not an AC10. The AM10 series was developed for use with an external powered system. Speaker wires from the RXV1800 to the AM10 and then the AM10 outputs to the AM10 satellite speakers. Have you tried powering up the AM10 with only one set of speaker wires attached and then removing it? There is the possiblilty that the hum is originating in the Yamaha and not the AM10. No doubt what you are hearing is 60 cycle hum. This is generally associated with either a power supply filtering problem or a intermittant ground. Try hooking only one speaker wire set at a time to the AM10 sub. Let me know what you find.
Mark B. |
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New member Username: Althoffk
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Monday, January 19, 2009 - 08:52 pm: |
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Hello Mark, I have Lifestyle 12. Are you able to provide the schematics for the console ? I already have the CD5 service manual, but there are no schematics nor pcb layout. I am attempting to fix the display, capacitor C19 issue. Thank you, my email is althoffk@verizon.net. Thank you for all your help ! Klaus |
New member Username: Cdt
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 02:22 pm: |
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Dear All.,
Can someone give me the schematics of BOSE 321 II? The cost to repair is very epensive (200USD for initail). I would like to do it by myself fist.
My email is tree471@hotmail.com
Thank all
PS. I already have the FW from "Phoenix's URL". |
New member Username: Lifestyle_30
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 03:27 pm: |
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I have a lifestyle 30 system, the main amps flip doors' spring is broken and I am not able to eject the 6 Disc CD Casing Open. Bose Repair service wants $250 to fix the problem, is there anyway I can do this myself?
I looked at the system, however, I did not find any visible screws on the system.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Siva |
New member Username: Redskyaudio
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 07:21 pm: |
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I have the same LS12 problem with the display, and am going to try the cap replacement. My only problem...I can't figure out how to open the thing! The soldering/desoldering part is simple, but I need to get in to it first.
Does anyone have the takeapart manaul or know how to get in to the CD5?
Thanks!
bergman.chad@gmail.com |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 139
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2009 - 07:18 pm: |
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Sorry everyone, I've been out of town for the past week.
Siva,
I doubt your problem has anything to do with the flip open door but rather the eject mechanism itself. Email me and I will get the CD20 documentation to you and the scoop on what to look for and how to remedy your problem.
Chad,
Hang in there, I have sent you what you need to open and repair that CD5V. I will send the docs for the CD5V and the CD5V2 since you didn't elaborate on which version you had.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Lynette_p
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Friday, January 30, 2009 - 08:24 pm: |
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Hi, I am new to this forum and have limited knowledge on audio equipment.
I hope to get some advice on my Bose Lifestyle 48. I purchased this system June 2005 when I lived in the US; I moved to Australia a year ago and have the system hooked up to a voltage converter now.
Ultimately I would like to purchase:
Dual voltage Power Pack & Cords:
Input - 115/230V, 0.55A, 50/60 Hz Output – 33VDC, 1.1A
So now I'm wondering if I purchased the power pack and cords is there any chance of damaging the Media Center and Acoustimass Module if I directly connect them? Bose Australia Repair said that the Media Center and Acoustimass need changes made inside both units.
If I can connect them without damaging the units, do you know were I can purchase the power packs and cords? Before I left the US Bose gave me the part numbers for the power pack and cords, however Australia Bose are not helpful at all, wanting to charge $1600 to convert the system.
On another note: The unit cannot read video CD-Rs the system displays “Format Unsupported” Is there any way I can program the unit to read CD-Rs? |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 140
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, January 31, 2009 - 12:17 pm: |
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Lynette,
Sorry to hear about your woes with Australia Bose. That $1600 fee to convert is ridiculous. The conversion entails adding 3 parts and removing 2. Granted it is time consuming to get into the system and the change over needs to be done by someone comfortable with electronics. There is also the difficulty of obtaining the correct parts since Bose will not sell them to you. But let's move on to your other questions.
The media center will not be damaged if you use the dual voltage power supply. What the media center needs is the 33VDC to operate and the power pak provides that whether connected to a 115VAC or 230VAC source. It automatically configures itself to produce the regulated 33VDC regardless of the input voltage.
You are correct in that the unit cannot read CD-R's and there is no way to configure it to do so. The supported formats are a function of the firmware installed and there is no source for changing that.
Back to your "real" problem, the LS28 subwoofer. The power supply board used in the US model is the same as used in the European, universal and the Japan model except for selected parts either being installed or not as the case may be. I cannot imagine why Australia Bose is being so pig headed. You could purchase an entire 115/230VAC power supply board for much less than that.
If it were me I think I would contact US Bose and explain your dilemma to them. They may be forthcoming in providing you with either a universal voltage power supply board or maybe intervene with Australia Bose to provide the conversion service at a fraction of the quoted cost.
Let me know how you wish to proceed and I will assist you in any way I can. You may contact me directly by email if you wish. mr3dzpop@bellsouth.net is my email address.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Lynette_p
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 05:06 am: |
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Hi Mark,
Thank you soooo much. You have been extremely helpful.
I called US Bose; after my post and they explained that I could purchase a Universal power supply from them, if I could not purchase one in Australia. I did lightly mention that Bose Australia was not very helpful, but did not tell the technician how much they were going to charge me for the conversion. You are correct; I will give them a call on Monday and complain how much Bose Australia quoted me to convert the system. Especially as I asked US Bose about this before I left the US how much it would only cost me, they said it would cost $200 to $300 to convert the system over in Australia.
I think I'm going to purchase the duel voltage power supply for the media center and will have to endure having a power converter/transformer hooked up to the subwoofer.
I will keep you posted with my progress.
By the way this forum is great and you obviously are extremely knowledgeable.
Thank you once again!
Lynette |
New member Username: Philsnipes
UK
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, February 03, 2009 - 01:10 pm: |
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Hi Mark
I am a newbie to the forum and was astounded at how very generous and helpful you are to the many of us out there with Bose issues - scratching our heads!
I own an Acoustimass 5 series II and after moving house now suddenyl only get audio from the cubes. The active sub only produces a horrible intermittent boom from the box unit (sounds more surge/short driven then anything else). Now and again, as I change source types (via a connected Dol 5.1 media player into the console), the sub will sometimes produce a very loud low tone which evetually grows lower and lower exponentially over a period of about 5 seconds... then nothing. All this time the audio to the cubes is fine... If I plug in an external source to the sub independently, I can hear a very faint version of the audio in the sub (ear to the box!).
Would you have any idea as to where I start? I am quite confident with electronics and soldering, but have no idea what component I need to fault find against or even consider.
Hoping that you might be able to help - very grateful in advance for anything you might be able to suggest.
Kind regards
Phil |
New member Username: Adiarc
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 12:23 am: |
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Hi Mark,
I have Bose Lifestyle 12 model. I bought it in US and took that system to my home country. Unknowingly I plugged the device with wrong voltage supply and got little smoke from woofer. I don't know whether it is only some fuse went damaged or it is having some major problem. Could you please suggest what can I do for this to start my system again.
Thanks in Advance
regards
adiarc |
New member Username: Lifestyle_30
Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 02:26 am: |
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Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2009 - 07:18 pm: Edit Post
Sorry everyone, I've been out of town for the past week.
Siva,
I doubt your problem has anything to do with the flip open door but rather the eject mechanism itself. Email me and I will get the CD20 documentation to you and the scoop on what to look for and how to remedy your problem.
Chad,
Hang in there, I have sent you what you need to open and repair that CD5V. I will send the docs for the CD5V and the CD5V2 since you didn't elaborate on which version you had.
Mark B.
_______________________
Mark:
Thank you for your response, how can I send an email to you? I do not have your address. I can post my email address here, but I suspect I'll be getting spam. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 141
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 04:43 pm: |
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Siva,
Go back up the page a few posts to my post #140 to Lynette. My email address is there at the end of the paragraph.
Mark B. |
Bronze Member Username: Amoldc
Post Number: 12
Registered: Dec-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 06:17 pm: |
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Mark I apologize if this post is un-appropriate. I had hard time procuring this part from Bose, so I thought someone can benefit from this unused Bose part.
Gentlemen and Ladies,
I have a Power Transformer (230V) from Bose and instructions sent by Mark Burgess (our Bose expert) if someone is interested in converting a AM-10 Series III Subwoofer from 110V to 230V to work outside US. I bought this from Bose for USD 70. If someone is interested I can sell it + whatever the actual shipping charges are.
Please email me @ amol.choukekar@gmail.com only. Lets keep this thread strictly for Bose technical issues only.
Thanks!
Amol |
New member Username: John_rose
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 06:39 pm: |
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Hi Everyone,
I was hoping to get some assistance regarding a lifestyle 28 system I recently purchased second hand. I'm in Aus however the unit is an American one. I was supplied a converter for the AV18 media center and it seems to power up ok. Looking at the PS28 it has 110 - 120V / 220 - 240 V / 50 - 60 Hz printed on it. Does this mean it is a dual voltage capable unit? At present running both systems off a single 1600W converter I'm not getting any sound from the system. Should there be any indication from the PS28 that it is powered on? I may have jumped the gun and pulled off the back of the unit. I also found what looked like a fuse with 250V 4.0A next to it. Checking with a meter if it is a fuse it is currently open... Sorry for all the Qs!!! Any help appreciated I just want to listen to this thing. I'm tempted to get a decent converter too.
Thanks in advance.
John.
john.rose(at)logica.com |
New member Username: John_rose
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 04:27 am: |
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bugger!! as an update I just plugged the av18 media center on it's own on the converter and i heard a pop and the display went off. i think i just discovered my converter is suss!! no where do i find the fuse on the av18!?
thanks. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 142
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 08:29 pm: |
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John,
Sorry to hear about all the hassle you're having with that LS28 system. If your PS28 has 110-120V/220-240V 50-60Hz then it is a universal model and it will work on both voltage sources. It will automatically configure itself to operate properly with either source. As far as the AV18 not working, the fuse in question would be in the power pak and not the AV18 itself. Check the power supply pak and see if it too is a universal 120/240V model. If it is then it too should automatically configure to operate on either source. If however it's a 110-120V then you will have to use a step down transformer to run it.
The component you found in the PS28 is in fact a fuse. If it should blow again after replacing it then you do have problems either in the power supply itself or the amplifier section. The PS28 is not a candidate for the DIY category. If you open the power pak for the AV18 and find a blown fuse then it too will have to be replaced. Gather as much information as you can and get back with me. Then we can decide whether a trip to Bose service is warranted or not.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 143
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 08:43 pm: |
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Adi,
You will have to open the Subwoofer to determine just how much was damaged. It won't be as simple as a fuse if indeed you saw smoke. Hopefully only a few resistors and maybe the triac were fried. First determine what appears to be blown and repost your findings.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 144
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 08:50 pm: |
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Phil,
Sorry I'm late in posting to this, I missed it earlier. The AM5 series II is an older model and maybe suffering from dried out caps in the bass equalization portion of the circuit. Email me with your email address and I will get the prints you need to you. I will also give you a list of which caps to check and/or replace. The fact that your cube speakers are functional speaks well of the integrity of the system as a whole so be relieved that you're not dealing with a serious problem.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Adiarc
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 09:33 am: |
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Hi Mark
Thanks for your reply. I tried to open the woofer but couldn't. Could you please tell me how to open the woofer.
I am really soory if i am asking so silly question. Please help me out.
Thanks
Adi |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 145
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 09:28 pm: |
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Adi,
Go back to the archives above "Archive through January 06, 2008" and about 20 or so posts down from the top you will see my post #4. It contains all the information on how to access the inside of the subwoofer. Good luck
Mark B. |
New member Username: Bosemee
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 04:51 pm: |
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Hi Mark,
I have bose Style model 12-II with CD5 Center system, The Ear phone jack is working fine and I connect speaker with out SUP into fIX I can hear the music from it. When I connect it to the SUP I can not hear nothing. Then I try my Sup with my other receiver the sup seem to work fine. Would you please help me and send me adiagram. Thank you
dave. |
New member Username: Bosemee
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 04:53 pm: |
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Hi Mark,
I have bose Style model 12-II with CD5 Center system, The Ear phone jack is working fine and I connect speaker with out SUP into fIX I can hear the music from it. When I connect it to the SUP I can not hear nothing. Then I try my Sup with my other receiver the sup seem to work fine. Would you please help me and send me adiagram. My Email: utrymeeok@hotmail.com
Thank you
dave. |
New member Username: Bosemee
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 08:13 pm: |
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Oooop.... Sorry all, I mean.. Subwoofer
Thank you
dave. |
New member Username: John_rose
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 08:16 pm: |
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Hi Mark thanks for your advice. I opened both the av18 console and power pack but couldn't find a fuse. i did find an IC in the av18 console that had its top blown off! wasn't cpu - looks like a regulator or similar. a fuse would have been really nice in this case! to avoid causing any more injury to the devices i have sent both for service. i'll let the forum know for future reference what the diagnosis is.
thax
john |
New member Username: Philsnipes
UK
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 05:48 am: |
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Hi Mark
Thanks enormously for your kind assistance. I have emailed you my details outside of the blog to avoid spam issues. I have also opened up the sub and checked the Bass and Treble pots as you mentioned the word 'equalisation' - They both seem fine, so I will await your info regarding the caps as you mentioned. This is great news and I am very grateful for your generously shared expertise.
Regards
Phil |
New member Username: Adiarc
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 04:00 am: |
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Hi Mark,
many many thanks
I opend the subwoofer and it was only fues which went damaged. I replace with new one.
I am using step down transformer for player as i have 230 volt power supply.
When I connected every thing and switched on the system some kind of noise is coming. I am not sure wehather subwoofer also require stepdown transformer. I have already set a subwoofer voltage at 230 V . Please guide me.
regards
Adi |
New member Username: Sweatpea818
Madison,
Ohio
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 02:36 pm: |
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Hello,
My Bose Lifestyle 20 bass module recently quit working. Unit will not power up at all. My question is, would anyone out there have a electronic schematic of this unit? I have 20 years of electronics experience and feel I could repair it myself since Bose wants so much. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 146
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 06:51 pm: |
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Mark,
I have sent you everything you should need to remedy your problem.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 147
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 07:01 pm: |
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Dave,
There are two outputs from the CD5V2, FIXED and VARIABLE. If you are using the variable outputs and getting no sound then most likely the "electronic volume" IC is bad. You can use the "FIXED" output and control the volume via the remote. There also a volume IC within the confines of the subwoofer and the digital information sent from the CD5 controls that IC. I am assuming that the subwoofer is a AM25P series II based on the "Lifestyle 12 II" information you provided. If all this is true then let me know if you are still having problems.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Bosemee
Post Number: 4
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 09:59 pm: |
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Hello Mark, First of all I would like to say Thanks for answer me. I did check over it is a subwoofer AM25Pseries II. There was a sound when used headphone and I can volume vai the remote control no problem. There 1 "FIXER" L and R output on this CD5, when hookup Cube Speakers to L "FIXER" R I can hear very low sound and remote volume control do not work. any suggest Mark.
Thanks again
Dave |
New member Username: Blackonblack
New York,
NY
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, February 11, 2009 - 10:34 pm: |
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Hello! forgive me if im re-posting an old question, but i saw a similar question posted above but was unable to find the answer.
My bose lifestyle 8 series II system is making an extremely loud popping noise. I'll listen to itunes (thru aux in) and hear music fine. in 10-20 seconds the music will start cutting in and out. then I'll hear a deafening pop or scratch. Then nothing again... Same happens when i use the radio.
Any ideas? Help is MUCH appreciated! thanks |
New member Username: Sweatpea818
Madison,
Ohio
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 08:58 am: |
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Hello Mark Burgess,
Thank you very much for the information, you are a credit to the electronics community! I checked the schematics and found everything else ok except for the transformer. When I check the windings between the black and the orange leads I show open. I have continuity between all other leads just like the print shows. The problems seems to be the thermal ( circuit breaker?) that is open internally in the transformer between the black and the white/orange leads. Would you know of anyone who would have a transformer P/N- 176194 Rev. 03 or equiv. that they would like to depart with? Again, I thank you very much for your help. |
New member Username: Rangersam
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 12:30 pm: |
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I have a Bose Lifestyle 12 and was able to get the cover off from following previous post to locate the fuse. (touched speaker wires together and blew it) Where is this fuse and what does it look like? Thanks |
New member Username: Rangersam
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 12:43 pm: |
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I spotted a little Buss fuse tucked in the corner. I'm going in! |
New member Username: Rangersam
Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 01:13 pm: |
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YEAH! It was blown Thanks for all the info |
New member Username: Drjohn96
El Cajon,
CA
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 05:28 pm: |
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My Lifestyle 12 (no series II indication, single CD player only) remote function is acting up and, as noted in your archives, it's becoming a pain. My original remote failed, and I replaced it with another I found on eBay. Worked for a while. But a few months later, about 10% of the time it works normally, and 90% of the time, it only works within 5 feet or so. Sometimes, I can't turn the unit off at any range, and the media center also ignores its power off button, so it stays on all night. I'm thinking my options are to find a replacement media center or do the Bose refurbishment thing. The mentioned price of $165 sounds fair, but I shudder to think of the shipping if I have to send in the Acoustimass module with it.
Any advice? I didn't find this problem in the archives.
Thanks. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 148
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 04:14 pm: |
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John,
I would think that the remote is your problem and not anything associated with the console or the subwoofer. It would behoove you to open the remote and check the antenna coil and core to make sure it has not broken loose from the PC board. The ferrite slug is fairly heavy and it's very common that this breakage occurs especially if the remote has been dropped at any time. Try shaking the remote and if you hear anything rattling then it's a sure bet that coil has broken loose. Do this first before considering any actions with Bose.
Another note, while inside the remote, clean the carbon pads on the buttons and the pads on the printed side of the remote PC board with isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips. Be very gentle with the carbon pads and the carbon surface on the remote contacts.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 149
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 04:20 pm: |
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Simon,
I have emailed you with an attached bulletin that may explain your symptoms exactly. Let me know.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 150
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 04:29 pm: |
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Dave,
I may be that your subwoofer is not receiving the information sent by the remote. Try changing the speaker configuration to say, stereo or 3-speaker mode and see if these changes in fact take place. If not then your problem may lie in either the cable, the plug or the remote socket on the console. These female connectors are soldered to the main PC board in the console. If the connections are broken on the PC board then the Volume and Configuration Data may never reach the AM25P II. Try this and let me know what you find.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Bosemee
Post Number: 5
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 11:24 am: |
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Hi Mark,
The first CD5 system I changing the config. by pressing the remote control buttom I can see in CD5 display it's fuctioning ok but still NO SOUND go to SUBWOOFER. When I connect the same cable and the same subwoofer to my SECOND CD5 reciever, I can hear loud SOUND work and everything else work fine. There for the problem still in my first CD5 reviever. Please Mark, anyone have a CD5 diagram. My Email: utrymeeok@hotmail.com
Thank you for your help.
Dave |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 151
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 01:07 pm: |
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Dave,
OK, this confirms the idea that the green remote socket on the CD5 console has broken loose from the PC board. I will send you the service manual and it contains the information regarding the opening of the console. The bottom board is the main board and you will have to remove it to get to the socket connections. Re-solder the connections and you should be good to go.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Bowen71
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Monday, February 16, 2009 - 06:43 pm: |
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I have a Lifestyle 28 and its starting to POP and Crack also the sound gets jumbled. No matter what you play and what output. it plays well for about an 20 min. then it acts up unplug it for 3 min and it will work fine again. What can it be? |
New member Username: Lax
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 03:46 am: |
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Mark,
This posting might be a bit off but I have a problem with my Bose 321 GS with graphite speakers system.
The DVD tray got stuck and I got it repaired but then I accidentally plugged the AM into a 220 V supply (moved to London from US).
Can you send me instructions on how to open this particular AM system and identify which components are likely to be affected in the AM - power supply, amplifier, fuse and transformer? Or could the problem be that the repaired DVD tray just didnt work in the first place and if so, how do I test if the DVD player itself is working or not?
If you think discussing Bose 321 GS issues in this forum is not appropriate, kindly reply to the email I sent you directly. Thanks for your help. |
New member Username: Blackonblack
New York,
NY
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 09:16 am: |
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Thanks for the help mark, although i never received the bulletin u sent; could u resend or post it on this board? (re extremely loud popping noise)
Thanks!!!
Simon |
New member Username: Bosemee
Post Number: 6
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Friday, February 20, 2009 - 05:58 pm: |
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Hi Mark,
Thanks for your help and sent CD5 service manual with an information.
Thanks.
Dave |
New member Username: Your_mom
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
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| Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 10:49 pm: |
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Hi Mark,
I've been digging in all the previous posts relating to the AM 800P sub system.
I'm not sure which system this came with.
I'm trying to use it as just a sub for my system with no satellites connected. I do have a cable that came with it, it has red/white RCA, black female RCA, and stereo 3.5mm plug. I've seen diagram in my search for how to power up the 'on' by using 12v supply. but the diagram I've seen TC55044-01-4011 refers to pin 7 turn on, pin 3 ground, pin 13 +12v.
The person I got it from told me his console was stolen along with the cable.
with the various Bose models, he ordered this from Bose, so I would assume it is good. However in diagram I found does not list/show sub connector. Is this the right diagram to follow? I've opened cab and all components look perfect, nothing visibly fried.
I've used external amp to load sub woofer and it works fine.
My dilemma is this,
1 the cable provided, is the female RCA for sub in from my non powered sub out?
2 does the 12v supply connect to the mini middle and end to get the 'on' or is there something else required?
Hope this all makes sense to you.
Thank you for your time. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 152
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 01:00 pm: |
|
Paul,
You are correct that pin 7 is the turn on supply pin (+10V not 12) and pin 3 is ground. Pin 1 is the right channel input, pin 9 the left channel input and pin 5 is the reference pin for both channels. (gnd) The +10V turn on voltage is sourced by the middle ring of the mini plug and the ground reference is the shaft portion. The tip is used for serial data sent by the console to the sub to control mode and volume level. I really don't know how well that sub is going to do as a stand alone subwoofer but you can certainly try it. Just run your sub out from your receiver into either the right or left channel and use the mini plug as the turn-on control for the sub. You may disregard all the other pins as they would not be needed. I don't know how well you'll fare without a method of controlling the volume except for the signal level reaching the sub from your receiver. DO NOT use the female RCA for anything. Email me and I will send you all the diagrams you will need to see what's going on.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 153
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 01:03 pm: |
|
Simon,
I cannot post the bulletin to the board because the file size is too large. I have resent it to your hotmail address. Let me know if you don't receive it again. It is a 3.16 Meg pdf file. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 154
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 01:08 pm: |
|
J Bowen,
An LS28 system is not a candidate for DIY repair especially with the type of complaint you have. For $165 you can send both parts of the system to Bose and they will repair it, update all the software and warranty it for a year I believe. Believe me, you don't want to venture into the insides of either the console or the subwoofer. Take the Bose route and be safe.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Tom920
Shreveport,
LA
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 03:10 pm: |
|
Hello all! New here but already appreciate the knowledge being shared.
System details:
Bose Lifestyle 12 Series II
Model 5 Music Center
AM25II sub
Problem: CD can be heard from the headphone jack but no sound from any of the speakers (just a static noise if held to the ear).
I read an earlier post about checking the 27 ohm resistor at R428 for this type of problem. Resistor tested with meter was 27.2 ohms. Looks ok. Solder connections on control socket look good. Continuity in cable from music center to AM25II checks ok for control wire. Fuse in sub is intact.
No visible signs of roasted parts either in sub or music center. Any other suggestions welcomed. Thank You! |
New member Username: Rik55
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 06:40 pm: |
|
I have 2 lifestyle 20 systems. The little delrin gear for the cd changer broke on both units (cracked). I cannot afford the Bose repair charges and can exchange the part myself which I already did on one system using an old system I bought on Ebay.
Is there anywhere I can just purchase the gear? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time! |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 155
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 07:54 pm: |
|
Rik,
Unfortunately there is no source for that gear. That's why Bose repair is so expensive. They replace the entire mechanism just for that stupid gear. I have repaired 100's of those mechs by grinding down the motor shaft slightly using a dremel tool and then using a tiny drop of superglue to reattach the gear. The slight grinding is done so the gear won't expand when fitted to the shaft. If the gear expands it will bind where the split is. In some cases it is possible to slide the gear forward (without any grinding) so it engages the the larger gear without binding. Try that first and if it doesn't bind, apply a tiny drop of superglue to the end of the shaft where the gear's smooth face is. DO NOT GET ANY GLUE ON THE GEAR TEETH OR THE MOTOR SHAFT NEAR THE MOTOR! Other than these remedies there is no choice but to go the Bose route or the one you've already taken with the first one.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 156
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 08:56 pm: |
|
Tommy,
From your description the sub is no doubt turning on but not processing the signals. Your AM25PII is suffering from the bad crystal syndrome. CR400 is a 40Mhz crystal and they are notorious for overclocking at over 60Mhz. It will need to be replaced. Email me and I will send you the bulletin referencing this malady and if I can find them I will also mail you a replacement crystal and how to replace it.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Your_mom
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 09:12 am: |
|
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 01:00 pm:
Hi Mark,
Thank you for your assistance.
Sorry I don't have your e address.
If you could send the info to my e.
paul.lostinmontreal@gmail.com
I'll let you know how it goes with my testing. Again, thank you for your help. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 157
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 06:11 pm: |
|
Simon, Paul and Tommy...
I have sent you the stuff you need. I hope everyone got the correct materials. Let me know.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Rik55
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 03:42 pm: |
|
Thank you Mark,
You are a scholar and a gentleman. Was able to get the gear to hold and function without any grinding. All systems go!
Have a "96 model 5 with no display. Will try the 33ufd @50v.
Thank you for your wisdom and time!
May He richly bless you!
Rik |
New member Username: Jacqui
Atlanta,
GA
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 10:35 am: |
|
Mark,
I have a Lifestyle 25 System and the magazine for the cd's is stuck. Bose says 255 to fix is there anyway I can do this myself.
Thanks,
Jacqui |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 158
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 01:26 pm: |
|
Jaqui,
If you will go up 5 posts and read my post to Rik you will see what is entailed in repairing that CD20 and why Bose wants an arm and a leg to repair it. If you will email me I will, by return email, send you a copy of the service manual which contains the instructions on how to open the console and where to look for the culprit of your malady. If you are very careful in this endeavor then your console will again work fine. My email address is in my profile.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Badatred
Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 03:00 pm: |
|
Hi Everyone
I did a really smart thing - plugged in my 110V Acoustimass 10 - Series III into 220V outlet.
Does anyone know if this can be fixed DIY. Did this kill a replaceable fuse?
I am quite happy to open this thing up, but don´t want to go too far...
Thank for your support in advance.
Marc} |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 159
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, March 01, 2009 - 05:54 pm: |
|
Marc,
If you're lucky then all you did is blow the fuse. There may be other things i.e. the photocoupler and the triac that may have been damaged. There is also a small transformer and two dual diodes that produce +/- 12V for the turn on circuit. More than likely this is damaged but you can alway hope. You will have to open the beast to gain access to the fuse. It will indeed be toast. If nothing else appears to blown to bits then replace it with a fuse of lower current for a test. The fuse in it now should be a 3.15 amp so replace just for testing purposes with a 1.5 amp. If the replaced fuse goes poof then you have other problems. If not and everything seems OK, check to see if you indeed have the +12V and -12V supplies. If these check OK then replace the fuse with the correct value cross your fingers and fire that puppy up.
Now you ask, "what and where do I check for this stuff?" Email me and I will get the documentation and schematics to you via return email. If you're not comfortable with electronics then enlist help from someone who is. Safety first, I don't want anyone out there getting zapped!
Mark B. |
New member Username: Badatred
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 03:40 am: |
|
Mark
you are incredible - many thanks for the response! Very much appreciated.
If you can send me the schematics would be great. My mail marc AT haberland DOT com.
And yes, quite comfortable with electronics!
All the best and thanks again.
Marc |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 160
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 03, 2009 - 06:08 pm: |
|
Just a note to everyone....
I will be on off-line for about a week starting Thursday, March 5. Going up to Virginia so see my 2nd grandbaby born, my daughter's first.
Mark B. 8^) |
Platinum Member Username: Nuck
Post Number: 11688
Registered: Dec-04
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 03, 2009 - 09:36 pm: |
|
Mark, congratulations!
I hope mother and child are doing well, and I wish you a safe and enjoyable trip. |
New member Username: Jacqui
Atlanta,
GA
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 09:52 pm: |
|
Mark,
Thanks for your help. My son came over and he was able to take it to a friend to fix it. Yes I am in Atlanta so if I need your help again I will certainly call on you. Sorry it took so long to respond, but started work on Monday and was really busy. I don t see your email address in your profile. So if you want to send me a note mine is there. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 161
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 10:16 pm: |
|
Jacqui,
I didn't see your email address on your profile only the "send a private email" bit. My email address is posted several times on this forum but I'll give it again here.
mr3dzpop@bellsouth.net
I am off in the morning to Virginia to see my daughter and her brand new baby. Born 03/04/2009... 6 lbs, 11oz of bubbly baby boy. I haven't been this excited since her mom delivered her. 8^) |
New member Username: Cosimino71
Tuglie,
Lecce
ITALIA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Monday, March 09, 2009 - 02:03 pm: |
|
Hello Mark is new member of this forum is Italian for this will my English not be perfect. I have sub acoustimass 9 that I would want to connect to an amplifier kenwood, I have seen on the others post the connections to make. My cable to 8 pin in and aut has 1 rca red 1 rca white man and 1 jack from 3,5. That feeding I must put on the jack in order to ignite the sub. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 162
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Monday, March 09, 2009 - 06:08 pm: |
|
Falco,
OK, you will be needing the schematics, the layouts and the the service manual to do what you wish to do. The hookup is not so difficult but you are going to have to make some internal hookups in order to get any sound out of the AM9. Since you're not using a CD5 console there will be no serial data being sent to the sub and without that, all volume IC's will be at minimum volume and all the amps will be muted. I will send the information to your msn email address and direct you to page 28 of the service manual for instructions on how to put the AM9 in a test mode which will allow you to use the volume control on your Kenwood as the master. You will not however have individual control over the center and surround volume except for test configuration. I suggest that you use test 'D' setup and try out the system. As far as firing up the sub, connect the white RCA to your left preamp output and the red RCA to the right preamp output. Use the 3.5mm miniplug, center ring +10V and the shaft as ground. Applying 10V will turn on the sub. The tip of the plug is not used since you are not sending serial data to the sub. If you have any questions then you can email me direct using my email address from my email to you containing all the pdf files.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Tom2008
Lexington,
MA
USA
Post Number: 3
Registered: Dec-08
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 09:01 pm: |
|
Hi Mark,
I have been reading your posts for sometime and they are very helpful.I need some help with schematic for lifestyle 25 powered subwoofer. serial # AM250AU124021. I want to do two things on this subwoofer. first, the bass nob is not working, I want to fix it. And secondly, I want to replace the micro controller, so it can work with other receivers. I guess the micro controller(St6225) sends serial data to TC9213P(s) to control the volume. Thank you in advance. |
New member Username: Wadavies
Post Number: 7
Registered: Mar-08
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:25 pm: |
|
hi Mark-good to see you are back and a proud grandfather!
I have an AM25 Series11 subwoofer which came from the US and operates on a step down transformer.
Like Lynette (30 January 2009) I contacted Bose Australia about replacing the power supply board and they advise the charge is now A$1000 down from A$1600 in January.
I rang Bose USA last night asking for a universal power board (115/230VAC) but was advised they are unavailable-the implication being old model thus no parts.
I could try emailing them but do you have any suggestions?For example a part number for the universal power board?
Could i also ask for the schematics for the AM25Series11 in case I hit paydirt?
Thanks again |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 163
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 07:20 pm: |
|
Tom,
You are biting off more than you can chew! The ST6225M6 is an OTP (One Time Programmable) 8-bit MCU. I don't know if you can read the contents of the 3884 bytes programmed or not. While there is an EEPROM on the PC board also, it is only used to store configuration data. This MCU runs the whole show so you'd be hard pressed to do anything without documentation and emulation software as well as a programmer to write the code. There are EPROM versions of this processor but you would still have to have the original code and then modify from there. I have no idea what your level of expertise is but this is not for the novice by any means. If you're looking for online datasheets for this processor then use ST6515 as a search number. The ST6225 is the same processor with more EPROM space.
As far as the bass control is concered, chances are that the leads are broken at the pot itself. This should be relatively easy to rectify. Email me at mr3dzpop@bellsouth.net and I will get the schematics and service manual to you. Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 164
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 07:22 pm: |
|
Warren,
Check your email dude! Everything you need is there!
Mark B. |
New member Username: Tom2008
Lexington,
MA
USA
Post Number: 5
Registered: Dec-08
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 09:15 pm: |
|
Mark,
Thanks for your help. I am impressed by your expertise in analog and digital circuitry. You are the king here. I know it is not an easy job to replace ST6225 with something else to control everything in AM25, as you pointed out that no source code is available. But I really don't like the way that BOSE sub can't be used with other receivers. I beleive a lot of people suffer from this. But it is very straight forward to control the TC9213 with any micro controller, one serial data, clock and strobe line will do it. But so far, I need to understand what other functionalities the micro provides.
Tom |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 165
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 10:30 pm: |
|
Tom,
The AM25P can be used with other receivers if that is what you wish to do. There is a way to internally configure the sub so the TC9213's are at either full on or at Right front/Left front -40db and center and surround at -6db with all amps unmuted. In this mode you simply use the main volume control of your receiver to control the output. If you're only wanting to use the sub as a sub then the setup is very simple. This arrangement of course does not give you separate control over the respective outputs but if used as a sub only it does quite well. Again, email me and I'll send you the info and how to accomplish this without the processor route and all the hassle that would entail.
Mark |
New member Username: Fyanesv
Valencia,
Carabobo
Venezuela
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 01:16 pm: |
|
Hi everyone!!
Hi Mark,
Have a Lifestyle 18 Series II model, this unit was working fine for about 4 years, recently the unit has no audio, I checked all cables and appears fine, checked pins for the acoustic to media cable ok too, checked the fuse on the acoustic and its fine... ahh tried the 1 minute disconnect and reconnect also... Can you please tell me where is the LED (green amber) I'm missing that part you talk about with Alberto????, Thanks in advance... Appreciate any suggestions...
FAYA |
New member Username: Cosimino71
Lecce
ITALIA
Post Number: 3
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 03:27 pm: |
|
Hi Mark the sub what perfectly works thanks to your indications must make in order to qualify the other escapes (front/rear/center) with to the sub. Which contacts on the pcb I must connect in this moment I have connected (ground+test 3) and works alone the sub. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 166
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 07:18 pm: |
|
Falco,
Glad to hear it working out for you. Connect the GND to test 1 to get all the channels working at 0db and mutes off. Hope this works out for you.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 167
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 07:21 pm: |
|
Fernando,
The LED's in question are very small and are located near where the CAT5 cable plugs into the sub. They are mounted on a board and you can only see the very tips of them from your outside vantage point. Let me know after you've ascertained the status of the LED's.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Fyanesv
Valencia,
Carabobo
Venezuela
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 10:41 pm: |
|
Mark,
Thanks man, your reputation speaks for itself, I did found what looks like a LED for all of us that are not very into electronics, and no it does not lights up at all, which means and I think i will save you the trouble of giving me the bad news, must take it to service, I'm guessing power supply!!!. by the way, if you think there is a slight possibility that some black magic will help please let me know.... Lol...
Thanks for your invaluable time and assistance.
Best regards,
Fernando... |
New member Username: Cosimino71
Lecce
ITALIA
Post Number: 4
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 05:45 am: |
|
Mark
Thanks but the connection (Ground+Test3) I must detach or must be connected all and two in order to work. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 168
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 04:44 pm: |
|
Falco,
Sorry about that, I guess that wasn't very clear was it? Remove the jumper from test 3 tie point and connect it to test 1. Again I apologize for my undersight.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 169
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 04:49 pm: |
|
Fernando,
Yes, I'm afraid without any lights something is definitely going on with the subwoofer. I would suggest packing up both the sub and the console since they will fix and update both for the same price as repairing the sub only. As you may have read in other posts to folks with these LS18's, 28's and 38's, it is not a good DIY candidate. High voltage power supply and parts difficult to obtain except from Bose. I think their flat rate for these systems is $165.00
Mark B. |
New member Username: Cosimino71
Lecce
ITALIA
Post Number: 5
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 08:06 am: |
|
Mark
But the volume of the sub making connection (ground+test 1) will turn out lower regarding or and before equal. In this case the volume (bass) of the module sub does not work? The volume master is commant from my amplifier.
Thanks. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 170
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 04:46 pm: |
|
Falco,
Here is a list of the test modes and result of entering each. The original setting I sent you was mode E, the last setting was mode B, Try D and see if this doesn't do want you want. This information is on page 28 of the service manual I sent you.
Mark B.
MODE TEST 3 TEST 2 TEST1 Condition (L=Left, R=Right, C=Center, S=Surround)
A Open Open Open Normal (Customer) Mode Operation
B Open Open GND U8, U9, U12 at full on (0 dB), Power Amps Unmuted
C Open GND Open U8, U9, U12 at full on (-80 dB), Power Amps Unmuted
D Open GND GND U9 (L,R) at -40 dB, U12(C,S) at -6 dB, Amps Unmuted
E GND Open Open U9 (L,R) at 0 dB, U12(C,S) Off, Amps Unmuted
F GND Open GND U8, U9, U12 at Full On Power Amps Unmuted |
New member Username: Rm0202
Melbourne
Australia
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 07:50 pm: |
|
HI everyone,
Looking for some help regards Lifestyle 18 Series 1. The base unit is not receiving any power. No leds are blinking. It is an Aust. unit which has been working fine for around 4 years, then suddenly stopped. Have been quoted $400 to replace power board in the PS18 unit.
Is it likely that it could just be a fuse?
Would would course this to happen? I don't won't to fix it and only to find out it happens again.
Would a PS28 unit work with the 18's cube speakers? There is on on ebay.
Thanks for any feed back.
Russ |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 171
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 08:04 pm: |
|
Russ,
It's not very likely that just a fuse went out in that unit but then you never know. As far as replacing the power board, who's going to do this as opposed to repairing what you have?
As to your other question, yes, the PS28 system uses dual cubes and the PS18 has singles but the subs are virtually identicle. |
New member Username: Rm0202
Melbourne
Australia
Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 08:17 pm: |
|
Thanks for getting back so fast Mark. Repair from the authorised bose repair here on the Gold Coast QLD AUST. I rang and checked they have stated that the whole power supply board needs replacing, and that can not repair what's there.
Regarding PS28, bose support have said that the eq programs are different and the sound through the single cubes will not be correct. Is this true? |
New member Username: Tom2008
Lexington,
MA
USA
Post Number: 6
Registered: Dec-08
|
| Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 08:45 pm: |
|
Hi Russell,
I guess Mark means the hardware(switching power supply) is the same, and you can replace them. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 172
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 09:57 pm: |
|
Russell,
I have no idea how QLD AUST Bose repair service operates. Just going by what I used to do which was... FIX the board, didn't have the luxury of simply slapping a new board in.
As far as Bose comments regarding the different eq's for the subs, they are correct BUT it can be changed to any of three; singleshot, doubleshot or jewelcubes via the RJ45 input and a home computer. Though I've never done it you can also create your own user eq. All this is explained in the operators manual for the three systems. PS18,28,48. As long as you have an avenue to Bose support, call and verify this ability and see what they say. They may even have the adaptor necessary to do the hookup.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Tomttom
Post Number: 5
Registered: Oct-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 - 10:47 am: |
|
Mark,
I want to control the MRI (Multi Room Interface ) of my Lifestyle 50 sytem over the serial port. I'm partly aware of the communication protocol (setting the volume, change the disk and skip/play/pause the CD, etc.) But I miss some commands, like changing preset channels on the radio, etc. I also would be happy to parse the data coming from the MRI and be able to display the volume level, currently playing track no, etc on a third party system. Don't you have a detailed protocol description? Or at least could you let me know the preset commands for the radio and the meaning of bytes the MRI sends?
Another question:
I would like to extend my setup to more rooms and need to know the pinouts of the four 8 pin mini DINs on the MRI for the zone outputs. I wonder what pins are used for the GND of the left/right channel signals? As far as I see the factory cable (that goes to the AM20) is connected the following way: the left GND is connected to PIN5 (yous said earlier it is for room sensing), the right GND is to the metal chassis. Does that mean that the signal GNDs are connected to the plug chassis in the MRI?
Besides there are two pins for each channels (1&3 for left and 2&4 for the right). Am I right supposing that 1&2 are the varied level and 3&4 are the fixed level outs?
Thanks,
Tom |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 173
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Thursday, April 02, 2009 - 06:17 pm: |
|
Tom,
Tall order here for sure. I can provide you with a good deal of information but as far as the communication protocol you are out of luck. I don't have it or know it nor will BOSE provide it in any way. You will need to contact me by email so I can get what I have to you.
I'm curious as to where you're intercepting these command lines. Are we talking about the MRI or the PMC remote control? The P(ersonal)M(usic)C(enter) is doing all the data sending via an RDL (radio data link) and the MRI returns data to the PMC via this same radio link. The MRI also sends data to BOSE systems or subs via the Mini DIN plugs, data to its internal tuner, data to the CD player, input function selectors and room volume controls.
I will send you the schematics that will help you see what's going on with the 9 Pin DINs. Pins 1&3 are common to each other as are 2&4 and they are post volume control in the MRI. Pins 8&9 are common and represent signal ground for the Right and left signals. Pin 6 is the enable (turn on) line for each room, Pin 7 carries speaker data to the connected system if applicable and of course Pin 5 is the Room sense line. For room sense to operate correctly you MUST use a MRI compatible cable. There is a short between pin 5 and shield ground of the cable. When the cable is plugged into ROOM A,B,C or D din output and also connected to a Bose sub the shield connection becomes common with signal ground, and the binary weighted sense line is interperted by the uProcessor in the MRI. Room A is weighted 1, B 2, C 4 and D 8. I'm getting carried away here. Email me with any questions you still have and I will, by return email, get this information to you. You're diving into some deep waters here. 8^)
Mark B. |
New member Username: Rajm
Port-louis
Mauritius
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, April 04, 2009 - 01:41 pm: |
|
Hi Mark.
I have read the thread of mails ,it looks impressive how much help and support you are providing ,You are really great.
I have faced my only problem with bose lifestyle 12 bought from Singapore in nov 1995,from atlas private ltd.After 14 years ,last night i was listening to the radio fm on the system when the sound was not coming well so i look at the antenna at the back and see it was ok,,after 5 mins the sound started to fade until no sound was heard ,however the music centre is ok,the remote control also is fine,and the display on the system is also ok,but i guess the bass module is not working ,i check power cord,seems ok,but could not see anything lighted in the bass module,I have check with local dealer in Mauritius, who told me they are so busy ,but come back in 2 weeks time,as i cannot afford this leisure which deprive me and the family of our best hobby i am now reverting to you for help.pl tell me how to open the bass module and how to lacate the issue thanks for your prompt response my email address is rajmandary@intnet.mu...best regards}}} |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 174
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Saturday, April 04, 2009 - 06:51 pm: |
|
Raj,
I have sent a manual to your email address. In case you don't receive it, I need to know which Lifestyle system you have. Is it a series one (CD5V & AM9P) or a series II (CD5V2 & AM25P II)? Let me know and I will try to help you out.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Rajm
Port-louis
Mauritius
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2009 - 09:25 am: |
|
Hi Mark,
yes i have received the mail and review the manual also .The model is lifestyle 12 AMP9,.I am trying to locate the screws at the back of the subwoofer ,but could not see any,pl help on how to proceed .I n the meantime how can i really confirm that the console is fine ,inspite of the fact that the display is ok and works fine with the remote control,except as mentioned before -NO SOUND COMING FROM THE BASS MODULE AND THE SPEAKERS.
Awaiting your support
raj |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 175
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2009 - 10:21 am: |
|
Raj,
OK, no big problem here. I see from your original post that your AM9P was made prior to 1996 and will not have the screws. There is a note to this effect where the manual directs you to remove them. Next, on the opposite side, away from the AC socket, DIN socket and the speaker outputs; in the gap between the cover your trying to remove and the sub box itself, are the goodies you need to find. In the center of that gap there is a cover latch folded in so only the teeth show. With a thin flathead screw driver, place the blade between two teeth and pull from left to right. This should cause the lever to swing out. Make sure it is completely out (move it out until it won't move anymore.) Now the tricky part, on either side, near the corners of the gap, there are small tabs that are keeping the top from sliding. Use the screw driver and pull these tabs down and then tap the cover with a balled fist in the direction of the inputs/outputs. Do one side at a time and the cover should eventually slide in the direction you're hitting it. It then can be lifted off. See page 23, fig-15 for the location of the latch and the tabs.
Once inside, check the fuse. It is located on the top of the pc board (which is mounted upside down). I have emailed the schematics to you so you will have something to go by. The manual I sent is correct for the model you have.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Papahawk
Bemus Point,
New York
USA
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2009 - 12:52 pm: |
|
Mark,
I have a lifestyle 5 with the display not lighting. I did find a 22 uf 50v cap &47uf 35v cap at a radio shack. Will either one of these work?
Thanks
Chris |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 176
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2009 - 07:31 pm: |
|
Chris,
Get two of the 22ufd and parallel them. You can mount one on top and the other on the bottom. One would work but the display might be dim. Do NOT use the 35VDC cap regardless of the value. It will fail in short order. Make sure you observe the correct polarity on the caps.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Fjrules
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Monday, April 06, 2009 - 07:09 am: |
|
Hi All,
I have been following this trhead (among others) and now I have a problem of my own with a LS28 subwoofer!
It is named PS28/48.
I have prevoiosly resoldered the crystal (only yellow LED light) and it has worked perfectly for 4 years. Now there is no sound at all. I have checked to see if the crystal were loose, checked all cableing etc and all seems to be OK. My big questions now is: Can it be the cystal that is defect? We have measured the circuit board and found that it seems like the board is "restarting" constantly. Only once we we able to retrieve a green LED flash which only occured three or four times!
Every thing seems be in order, the powersupply is working, the cables are OK, no resistors burned etc. SO please if anyone can help???
Thanks...Brian |
New member Username: Edgaraul869
Pacoima,
California
USA
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Friday, April 10, 2009 - 01:43 am: |
|
Hi Mark can you please help on how to fix my bose acoustimas 10 series 111 its make a intermitent huumming noise Please help or anyone. |
New member Username: Bbowen
Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Friday, April 10, 2009 - 10:51 pm: |
|
I am looking for assistance with with cable pin outs between a lifestyle 28 control unit and a acoustimas 9 base module.
I have an acoustimas 9 base module that works fine with my bose lifestyle 20 control head but I purchased a lifestayle 28 control unit and DVD player and using the same cable it will not work. Are the cable pinouts different for the lifestyle 20 and 28 control unit? |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 177
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 05:16 pm: |
|
Brian,
I have no idea of which "crystal" you're speaking of. I do know that without an in depth knowledge of this piece equipment and its internal workings, you will be more than hard pressed to repair it. As I have reiterated numerous times in the past, the LS18,28,38 and 45 systems are not candidates for the DIY minded. Bite the bullet, pack up the console and the sub and let Bose repair it for a flat rate of $165.00. They will also upgrade the software to the current version at the same time and warranty their work.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 178
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 05:24 pm: |
|
Edgardo,
The humming from your AM10 could be either from the AM10 itself or the receiver driving it. A couple of questions, does the hum get louder with an increase of volume? Have you tried removing all channels and then trying one channel at a time to try and isolate the problem?
If the hum occurs intermittantly and is not affected at all by the volume level then chances are the problem lies in the power supply of the AM10. It the hum is affected by volume then you may be dealing with a ground reference issue between the sub and the receiver. Do some trouble shooting along these lines and then report back.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 179
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 05:39 pm: |
|
Owen,
You are definitely dealing with "apples and oranges" There is a world of difference between an AM9P and a PS28 sub which was designed for use with the AV28 console you are using. I honestly don't know if the AV28 will work properly with the AM9P or not. I do know you will have to create your own custom cable as the cables you currently have will definitely NOT work. Email me and I will get the necessary documentation to you so you can at least attempt to get the pair functional. My only question would be whether or not the speaker data sent by the AV28 will be compatible with the AM9P's processor. Go to my profile and email me and I will get this stuff out to you.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Bbowen
Post Number: 3
Registered: Mar-09
|
| Posted on Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 08:33 pm: |
|
Thanks to a little help from Mark Burgess (who else) I was able to figure out that legacy acustimas 9 modules will work with newer AV 28 Control head. You just need to enter the system setup menu for the AV 28 and change the Zone 1 protocal on screen 3 of 3 to legacy instead of normal. Thanks again Mark. |
New member Username: Rajm
Port-louis
Mauritius
Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 12:57 pm: |
|
Hi Mark,
I am back again for another issue that need lights from you .You do know i have the lifestyle 12 ,so far i have not been able to get the best digital sound from my bluray ps3,.
I have had to connect the rca plug red/white to the fixed input of the bose console.
The sound coming out is good,and surround also.
How can i enjoy better sound through same system,I have heard about HD FURY 2.
Do you believe it can provide the solution.
thanks
raj |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 180
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 05:24 pm: |
|
Raj,
Nope! The Fury2 deals mostly with the video aspects of HD TV. The sound portion will just be routed through and is in digital format. The Lifestyle 12 just isn't equipped to decode and output digital information. Your BluRay PS3 can pass Dolby digital, THX, DTS etc. but they are all digital formats and need something at the other end to decode and process the signals. Sorry for the disappointing news.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Chris_johnson
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 09:19 pm: |
|
hello all,
i have a powered acoustimass 5 series ii (with dual port- one 8 inch woffer)with no sound coming from it or the cubes. i checked the fuse inside and it looks great. i did notice that when i plug it in, a clicking sound comes from a relay.
hope we can fix it.
thank you,
chris |
New member Username: Rajm
Port-louis
Mauritius
Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 04:05 am: |
|
Hi Mark,
Thanks as always for the prompt and valuable advice.Basically i need to connect my ps3 output to any hdmi input.
Bose is selling a system v30 that you can fit with any equipment-dvd/bluray/projector etc to enjoy the best sound-would you go for it or for another system to connect my ps3 for best video/sound.
As the ps3 already decode THX also,i do not necessarily need a thx certified system,pl confirm how to get the best
regards
raj |
New member Username: Spunnoose
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Thursday, April 16, 2009 - 11:45 am: |
|
I repaired the display problem by changing the 33uF capacitor. Some of the buttons on the unit are not working (lower row to be precise). Any idea why this has happened? I can access every function through the remote !! Mark could you send me the schematic for Lifestyle 12/ 5 ( i beleive they are the same) headunit?
Email s.punnoose@btinternet.com |
New member Username: Magicalmassage
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 06:09 pm: |
|
I have Lifestyle 12 and all of a sudden there is no volume control, either with the remote or using the console controls.
(I do have sound through the speakers - but it is a constant volume at the initial level.)
Help!! Thank you so much! |
New member Username: Tom2008
Lexington,
MA
USA
Post Number: 7
Registered: Dec-08
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 12:16 am: |
|
Hi Mark,
Thank you so much. I followed your instructions and have successfully opened my Lifestyle 20 console. CD stuck issue has been fixed. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 181
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 07:41 pm: |
|
Paul,
Fisrt check is to plug in headphones and see if the volume is changing in them. Secondly I need to know whether we're dealing with a Lifestyle 12 series I or series II. Series II uses a CD5V2 and a AM25P II. If these are not what you have then no doubt it's a series one with a CD5V and an AM9P. If your volume is being controlled at the headphones then try using the variable output jacks on the CD5V? console and see if you get any change in volume through the sub. Do these checks first and let me know what the results were and we'll go from there.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 182
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 07:44 pm: |
|
Tom,
Congrats on a good fix. Glad to hear you got that beast running again.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 183
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 07:49 pm: |
|
Raj,
I don't know that I'm the best qualified to be recommending or condeming any systems. I would simply suggest that what ever route to go, make sure you are able to hear the system in a comparable environment, weigh that with your pocket book and make a decision based on cost/satisfaction ratios. I know, lotta help that was. It's the best I can do though, I just fix em, not qualified to critique them. 8^)
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 184
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 08:06 pm: |
|
Chris,
I think I missed your post earlier too. You've got me scratching my head a bit since there are no relays in an AM5P II. Email me and I will send you some prints to help troubleshoot. Try to track down the sound you're hearing. Is it mechanical or are you hearing it in the speakers? Let me know. mr3dzpop@bellsouth.net
Mark B. |
New member Username: Magicalmassage
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 10:23 pm: |
|
Hi, Mark
Thanks so very much for your reply. If I had a tail, it would be between my legs I am so embarassed.
A few days ago I plugged in headphones so my wife or I could watch tv while the other read or whatever. We then did not use the Bose for a few days but did use it a couple days ago and it worked fine through the speakers with volume control. Interestingly enough, I had forgotten that I had plugged in the headphones and they were still plugged in. Yesterday I had the problem described in the original post where the speakers were working but could not control the volume.
After receiving your post tonite, I realized the headphones were plugged in. As soon as I removed the headphone jack, the system worked properly. If there had been no volume through the speakers, I (hope) would have immediately remembered the headphones. After removing the headphone jack, I cannot duplicate the situation in the original post. As soon as I plug it back in, the speakers were silent as expected.. ?????
Anyway, my system is a Lifestyle 12 Series II just in case any of this is useful info for you or makes any sense to you.
Thanks, again. Love that my Bose is back!
Paul |
New member Username: Krisman
Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-07
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 05:20 am: |
|
Hi Mark
Follow your posts since 2007.awesome help for people like us.
My problem is similar to Lynette's.I have a (US)LS 28 series 1 system.works fine on a 110v stepdown transformer except that i have to increase the volume to 55 on the media centre to get reasonable output from all 5 speakers(not loud).
I would like the schema to convert the PS 28 power supply to work on 240v.Have constructed kit amplifiers and can do.
AU bose not pocket friendly at all.appreciate your help
regards
krishna
email kalpurath@gmail.com |
New member Username: Tory0001
Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 03:08 pm: |
|
Hello Mark.,
I saw you at the forum "ecoustics.com" for Bose repair. Right now I and my family moved to Saltillo, Mexico with my Bose (Lifestyle 30 V). It has been working very well here.
Unfortunately, along the last week, the video signal dose not appear to my television. I guest that this problem should be occurred by the relay inside the consoled unit. I already contacted Bose at Monterray, Mexico (it is only one dealer which closes to my city) they would like to charge me around 250 + tax USD for initial.
I think that I would like to do it by myself first. Could you please give me some circuit diagrams, service manual and theory of operation or anything which can help me to solve my problem!
Thank you in advance.
Best Regards.,
Terry Amerbrio Jose Vega.,
tory0001@live.com.mx |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 185
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 05:11 pm: |
|
Terry,
OK, tall order here or maybe not. First of all I need to know what your using as inputs for the video and how you output to the TV. For example, are you using HDMI, Component Video (red,green,blue), S-Video or composite? The same question holds for the TV... how is it connected to your control center? Make sure you have your TV configured for the proper input. This will be done through your TV menu and will have nothing to do with the Bose unless you have the Bose remote setup to control your TV. Next question, have you tried using a different type of output/input from the Bose to the TV. Again for example; if you are using HDMI then try using the component video (component video output from Bose to component input on TV instead and see if you get picture. Do you have a user's guide for that V-class system. If not, let me know and I can email one to you.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 186
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 07:10 pm: |
|
Krishna,
I've sent some information via email to you. It should help you. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Tory0001
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 07:44 pm: |
|
Hello Mark.,
My TV has S-Video and Composite. I always connect with S-Video and it has work well. Until the last Monday, it did not have Video signal. But when I change to Composite, I can get Video signal on TV. My problem only occurs only S-Video. I already checked the connectors for both TV and Bose and my cable also. Everything looks OK. I think that it should be occurred because of the relay or some circuits inside the unit.
Best Regards.,
Terry Amerbrio Jose Vega.,
tory0001@live.com.mx |
New member Username: Rajm
Port-louis
Mauritius
Post Number: 5
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Thursday, April 23, 2009 - 04:10 am: |
|
HI mark,
Iam back again with another problem with my plasma tv,which has several input inc video in,composite,s-video,and more important DVI input.
I have tried to connect my bluray hdmi out to the DVI input of the plasma ,but no picture ,only blank screen.
the dvi input has 24+4 pin,so i have bought a cable hdmi/dvi.with the 24+4pin,and even an adapter also,but in vain
I have contacted the supplier in Malaysia who told me it may be a problem of dhcp,kindly help .
regards
raj |
New member Username: Chris_johnson
Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2009 - 10:11 am: |
|
Hello, all.
I would like to thank Mark Burgess for his emails and tech support.
I have a couple of question for all. I would like to know if it is possible to limit the acousitmass bass module 10 II to certain frequencies. I want to add this bass unit to a pair of 301 V speakers controled by 5v media center and SA-3 amp. I will be using the bass on B and the amp on A . Meaning I am not going to attach the 301's to the 10 bass. My eend to the 301's in a smooth blend without running in to phase problems. Ofcourse, I am open to other suggestions or what works for others when using 301's.
Another question I have is why Bose chose to switch from using one 8 inch woofer in the AM5P series II to a two 5.25 inch speakers the next series. Is there something that the two speaker adds that the 8 inch could not do? Also, what is the main difference between the AMP20 (2 channel)and the AMP5 series IV or series III?
Thanks,
Chris ....BTW Mark -- Anthony is my middle name ;);)) sorry for the confusion |
New member Username: Dreuf
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
|
| Posted on Friday, May 22, 2009 - 07:23 am: |
|
Hi there.
Mark, I really hope you get well paid by Bose for this support.
I have a Lifestyle 5 mediacenter and a acoustimass speaker system, and want to change to a Lifestyle AV18 mediacenter.
The problem is that the cabel from the Lifestyle 5 to the subwoofer is different from the Lifestyle AV18 cabel.
I need a DIN connector in the subwoofer and a mini-DIN connector on the AV 18 mediacenter. Do you know if Bose has one cabel like this, or if you have some schematics so I can build my own cabel?
My email is: dreuf_1@hotmail.com
Thanks in advance.
BR
Marius
P.S: Sorry for my english... I'm from Norway |
New member Username: Fractured_brains
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 02:43 pm: |
|
Hello
I have an acoustimass 5 mediacenter and 99% of it works brilliantly... just one nagging problem! the display doesn't light up anymore, so i have to guess at whats goin on! I'm decent with electronics and feel compitent enough to fix it myself.. but i need to know if it's fixable without goin through hell to fix! And also if I can even get the parts!!
thank you!!!!!
Brian |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 187
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 03:27 pm: |
|
Marius,
Yes Bose does make a cable that would interface the AV18 to your subwoofer. It of course depends on which subwoofer you have as to which cable you need. Remember also you will have to use the "Legacy" settings for the AV18 to provide the appropriate signals for the sub. I would suggest that you go online to Bose customer support and they should be able to get the cable information for you. Make sure you have model and serial numbers handy.
And no, Bose has no idea I do this nor do I make a dime for any of this on the forum.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 188
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 03:36 pm: |
|
Brian,
All you need to do is to peruse back through this forum for that answer. I've posted this answer many times. It's an easy fix and will require only one capacitor. I don't know the model of your CD5 so look through these postings for your model and its respective cap culprit.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Fractured_brains
Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 03:42 pm: |
|
Mark,
right on!!! i will do just that!! i sorta figured it was a common problem. thank you for pointing me in the right direction. and moreover thank you for helping everyone with this forum!!
Brian |
New member Username: Tory0001
Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 09:36 pm: |
|
Hi Mark
It's me again. Could you please give me the service manual for Lifestyle 30 V or similar model? My problem is still held ..!
Best
Terry
tory0001@live.com.mx |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 189
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Sunday, May 24, 2009 - 09:22 am: |
|
Terry,
I have emailed the V20/V30 service manual to you. Starting on page 41 there is a detailed procedure for testing all inputs and outputs. Make sure you also test the S-Video input on your television by directly connecting an S-Video source, bypassing the V30 console.
The V30 converts any type video input to all types of video outputs. I understand that your television only has composite and S-Video inputs but you may also check the component video output by connecting the green component output to the composite input on your television. Yes the picture will be green but it verifies that the component conversion is functional. If you are still lacking S-Video then I would have to conclude that the problem lies within the V30 console, most likely the luminance connection at the S-Video jack.
There are no relays to contend with, everything is done electronically.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Pauly_k
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
|
| Posted on Monday, May 25, 2009 - 12:11 am: |
|
Hey Mark
My lifestyle 20 is hissing at me and I hope you can point me the right direction.
I bought the lifestyle 20 music centre on ebay and separately bought the powered am5 speaker system about 11 months ago, both worked without problem for 9 months.
About a month or so ago it started making popping sounds regardless of input for no reason I can think of.
Then I moved house a month ago, only next door, and personally and gently carried both units, and the bose started hissing a day or so later.
It is basically a static white noise and has recently started sounding a bit buzzy as well, gahhhh!!
Changing the volume doesn't nmake any difference to the level of the hissing, and I have swapped the power cable to the bass module as well as checking that the signal and power are separate.
Any advice as to what it could be are greatly appreciated.
Pauly |
New member Username: Pauly_k
Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
|
| Posted on Monday, May 25, 2009 - 12:42 am: |
|
Hey Mark, just thought I'd add a couple more details. The hissing comes from both left and right channels in equal measure, swapping them makes no difference. Changing music source makes no difference. Interestingly when switching the unit off, the music stops instantly but the hissing remains for a second or two at a slightly lower level (or is it just my imagination?) before going silent.
Pauly |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 190
Registered: May-07
|
| Posted on Monday, May 25, 2009 - 10:27 am: |
|
Paul,
Your problem will lie in the power supply of the subwoofer. No doubt you have some failed filter capacitors and more than likely they are in the +20 or +40 volt supplies since you say that volume level has no effect on the noise level. These power supplies are in the amp module of the AM5P subwoofer. Check all of the 4700ufd Caps for leakage and/or for failure.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Tory0001
Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-09
|
| Posted on Monday, May 25, 2009 - 06:46 pm: |
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Hi Mark.,
First of all, thank you very much for the service manual. You are quite right Mark. It doesn’t have any mechanical relay. I have some experience with Bose-321. It has relies (K5000-1) with S-video and composite.
After ran the video pattern test, only S-Video at Bose has no-signal (I already confirmed with oscilloscope) both before and after the connector on the PCB board.
Dear Mark, can I have the circuit diagrams of LS-30V or similar! Surely, I would like to buy my new TV with HDMI but I think that it should be better if I can solve this problem.
Big thanks in advance.
Best.,
T. |
New member Username: Pauly_k
Post Number: 3
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 12:52 am: |
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Big thanks Mark, it will most likely be going to a repair shop but I will post again once fixed (let's hope it is a simple capacitor replacement) for others in similar predicament.
Cheers
Pauly |
New member Username: Azzwang_mi
Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 12:42 pm: |
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Hi Mark.
I moved my bass module away while I was putting down my new floor. Making this story short, after I assembled my speakers and bass module back again and tested to check, I can hear all the cube speakers working but no bass sound coming out from my bass module. I tested the power on/off I didnt hear any "thump" when you turn it on. The cube speakers has sounds so I'm not sure if these are pass through or there is something wrong with the bass only.
your help is highly appreciated.
regards. |
New member Username: Azzwang_mi
Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 10:41 am: |
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Forgot, I have an AM15 bass module. Any help is appreciated. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 191
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 11:05 pm: |
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Noel,
First you need to gain access to the insides of the sub. If you don't know how, I've posted that info in the archives for this forum more than once I believe. Once inside, check the fuse, if it's good then check R98, it's a small chip resistor with "101" printed on it. It should measure 100 ohms resistance. It's located on the component side of the main PC board, middle left hand side as you face the input/outputs of the board. One of these two components will no doubt be the problem... unless you forgot to turn the switch on. 8^)
Mark B. |
New member Username: Craig200575
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 07:05 am: |
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Hi Mark,
I have a Lifestyle 18 (AV18) series 1 which I'm trying to pair with a PS28 subwoofer of a similar vintage but it is not the original sub. I'm getting no sound from the system and have a couple of signs that things aren't right.
On the media center when pressing enter+store the center shows no bass box software and the bass box subwoofer serial comes up as a row of XXXXXXX. On the sub itself, when turning on, the yellow LED flashes once and then stays on constantly. I have no way of verifying that the bass box works, because it was bought 2nd hand.
BOSE Aust. sent me some updated software for the console however this hasn't changed the problem. Could you offer some advice please?
With thanks Craig H. |
New member Username: Pauly_k
Post Number: 4
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 07:48 pm: |
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Hi Mark
I have a reply from a reputable repair shop with some details about the am5 hissing problem and the quote, does it look to you like a fair enough amount? Or should I go to a cheap repair guy a friend knows who does things on the cheap?
"Both the console and the Subwoofer need work.
The loading Mechanism in the Console is weak and will fail soon.
The subwoofer needs two Volume IC’s replaced plus passive components.
All up your looking at AUD$439 (US$350) to complete the work."
Thanks mate
Pauly |
New member Username: Brentmc
Stafford ,
Va
Usa
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Saturday, June 20, 2009 - 08:40 pm: |
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I have a Lifestyle 5 unit with a Bose Lifestyle 9 subwoofer. My center speaker and left front speakers work-- but none of the other speakers work in any mode.
Any idea what could cause this? I have checked and rechecked the wires. I can get the inop speakers to work if I plug them into the center or left front speaker jacks on the sub...this tells me that the wiring and speakers are okay...but that maybe the system is simply not putting out a signal to the other speaker jacks...
Any ideas?
Would this be a sub problem or a console problem?
Thanks a million,
Brent |
New member Username: Rpmsanders
Post Number: 4
Registered: Dec-08
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| Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 05:30 am: |
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Hi Mark,
Previously I wrote regarding a hum from an AM10 system and you suggested the reply below. I've tried absolutely everything including having no inputs plugged in at all and still no success. Is there anything else you can suggest? Is it possible to just plug the satellite speakers directly into the RXV1800, or would they be overpowered? Thanks again for your time,
Regards Mark Sanders
Mark,
I'm betting the sub you have is an AM10 and not an AC10. The AM10 series was developed for use with an external powered system. Speaker wires from the RXV1800 to the AM10 and then the AM10 outputs to the AM10 satellite speakers. Have you tried powering up the AM10 with only one set of speaker wires attached and then removing it? There is the possiblilty that the hum is originating in the Yamaha and not the AM10. No doubt what you are hearing is 60 cycle hum. This is generally associated with either a power supply filtering problem or a intermittant ground. Try hooking only one speaker wire set at a time to the AM10 sub. Let me know what you find.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Geordieb
England
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 06:16 pm: |
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Hi Mark,
Have just found this great resource, I bought a lifestyle 35 from Pinnacle sounds in 2004. I live in UK and have replaced the US power adaptor for a UK one for the media centre and am using the supplied converter for the subwoofer.
Everything was working fine but the last time I turned it on there was no sound and the settings page indicated 'no speakers connected'. I have tried disconnecting an reconnecting all of the cables but still cannot get any sound. There is power getting to the subwoofer as the LEDs are lit.
Do you have any idea what it could be? Also like a previous post when it was working I had to have the volume way up to 55 just to hear any sound, is this normal.
thanks in advance.
Wayne |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 192
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 05:56 pm: |
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Wayne,
Go to the "Media Center" in the menu and select "Restore Settings". If everything is OK with the system then this should get you back to ground zero with the factory defaults. If not then the Lifestyle 35 is due for a visit to the doctor. There are no easy fixes for the DVD systems. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 193
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 06:06 pm: |
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Mark,
If you're still experiencing hum from that AM10 with nothing connected then you have a power supply filter problem. No doubt there is a cap that has either failed or broken loose from the PC board. There are 5 suspects on the power supply board; C1,C2,C825,C824 and C826. Check these for connection integrity and if that's OK then they need to be checked for capacitance. I'm betting if one is bad it will be obvious. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 194
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 06:11 pm: |
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Brent,
First thing to do is to swap the right and left outputs at the console and see if the right side and center work only. If this is the case then the problem is with the console or the cable from the console to the sub. Secondly, try pressing and holding the 3-speaker mode or 5-speaker mode button on your remote for 10 seconds without releasing the button. This will reset the speaker settings in the sub to factory default and you can go from there. Let me know what happens.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 195
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 06:17 pm: |
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Paul,
Sounds like a lot of money to me but then I haven't been in this business for some time now. I know Bose Australia is high priced based on some other quotes people have shared with me. I wouldn't know of anywhere else to send you and at least you know you're getting Bose parts and that they have the documentation (schematics) necessary to do the job. I guess if it were me I'd bite the bullet. They should offer a warranty with that repair too.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 196
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 06:37 pm: |
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Craig,
Sorry to be so late with this but I've been away.
Here is an excerpt from the trouble shooting guide.
The amber and green LEDs on the DSP board serve to provide a wealth of information about the status and operation of the DSP board. The following is a summary of the various possible states of the LEDs and a functional description of the state(s) represented.
• Green LED: The green LED serves a dual purpose: general system health and serial data received. The green LED will blink once per second with a 50% duty cycle (i.e. on for ½ second, off for ½ second) if the system booted and is running normally. If the unit is in the SmartSpeaker “Off” condition, the green LED will blink briefly (approx. 0.1s ON time) once every 5 seconds.
• The green LED will also toggle whenever a serial data byte is received. This will interrupt the normal 1 second blink rate. The green LED blinking faster than 1 Hz usually indicates that it is receiving serial communications.
• Amber LED: The amber LED serves to signal 3 conditions: power applied/boot status, S/PDIF status and clipping status. When power is first applied the amber LED will light briefly. If the PROM FLASH checksum is incorrect or hardware does not pass power-on self test, the green LED and amber LED will alternately blink at approximately a 5 Hz rate. If the green LED is blinking at its normal, 1 Hz rate, a blinking, 1Hz amber light indicates that there is no valid S/PDIF signal present: If the amber LED is off while the green LED is blinking normally, then valid S/PDIF is present and being received.
As you can see there is no condition where the amber LED stays on continuously. I would say you have very corrupted information in the sub software or both the sub and the console. If you were stateside then Bose would repair and update both for $165.00. I have no idea what Bose Australia would charge. Might be worth the money because I don't know that I could be of any further service. This is going to take a complete update disc and the where-with-all to accomplish the update successfully. |
New member Username: Rpmsanders
Post Number: 5
Registered: Dec-08
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| Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 06:32 am: |
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Hi Mark,
Thanks for that. That make lots of sense, I actually had the sub packed in a suitcase on a trip back from LA to Australia and though it was very well padded it was subject to the usual airline care. It does seem like a loose something as the problem is not consistent, sometimes it fine for days and then during some movies it gets so bad I have to turn it off, and a gentle tap will often stop the hum. How do I access the power supply board and should I just be looking for a loose wire/connection? Thanks again for your help. I was concerned that maybe it was something to do with the different voltages and I had read on some sites about earthing problems and other interferences. And after thinking I'd saved money bring it back I was hoping I hadn't made a mistake,
Cheers Mark |
New member Username: Trunkluvr1
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 05:10 pm: |
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I have the lifestyle 12 system with the am9 speakers and sub. The original power adapter for the control unit was misplaced and a friend of mine plugged in one from a printer or something, needless to say he didn't look at the voltage on either plug nor the unit. So smoke coming out of the unit was the result of his stupidity and my lesson to not loan my things to anyone.
So now can I use my Yamaha dsp-a1000 to run the am9 speaker system because I noticed in a previous post you stated something about putting the unit in test mode but not being able to control the surround or center speaker levels when not using the bose control unit due to not having the data signal to the am9 woofer. So what can I do here, use the yamaha amp or if not where can I get the schematic for the bose head unit console. Any help would be great and thanks in advance. |
New member Username: Bentone
Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
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| Posted on Monday, June 29, 2009 - 04:07 am: |
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Hi Mark
I hope you may help me with my Bose lifestyle 20 system? It has suffered from an undervoltage problem after our mains voltage dropped from 240 to 120 volts. I have removed the cover off the acoustmass and carried out the obvious like the fuse, tested the 101 resistor (ok) and now looking for the 10 volt turn on signal from the head unit. The Din plug has 5 pins and i am not reading any AC or DC voltages. Can you help me with where to go next please?My email adress is jeff.benton@xtra.co.nz. Thansk you in advance Mark. Regards Jeff |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 197
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, June 29, 2009 - 07:15 pm: |
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Jason,
I have sent you a private email regarding your situation.
Mark B. |
Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpop
Woodstock,
Georgia
USA
Post Number: 198
Registered: May-07
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| Posted on Monday, June 29, 2009 - 07:19 pm: |
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Jeff, you got your stuff by email and Mark, I just sent you an email with the particulars about your problem.
Mark B. |
New member Username: Pauly_k
Post Number: 5
Registered: May-09
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| Posted on Monday, June 29, 2009 - 07:39 pm: |
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Hi Mark, just an update on the buzzing am5.
After three weeks it was 'fixed' but when I hooked it up at home it was as if nothing had changed.
The repair place said they would have been able to replicate the buzzing and would have tested it before handing it back so what the hell?
Is it possible I have dodgy power which blows up my amp every time I turn it on? (aussie voltage)
Best
pauly |
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